danskelly

Thanks! I work in industrial controls for a living, so I can usually figure this stuff out... eventually.I actually thought I tried the Temp Up and Temp Down at the same time when I first got it, but it didn't seem to work initially. Now, it works for me every time. Although I wish it didn't default to ECON mode after a power outage My 2nd pump has siezed (before I got the tub). So, I took it out, and tried to break it loose, but it would not budge. So, I put it back in and am leaving it for when I have a spare $200 to replace it. Luckily, it's not required to heat the tub. I am interested in this as well. So, if you find anything out, please PM me, (or post here.)

Hello, sorry it took me so long to respond to this. That appears(without seeing the other end of the wires) to be the pressure/temperature sensor wires which you can indeed see in my 2nd picture hugging the right side of the enclosure. small black ziptie holding the 2 cables together, same brown connector. It does, indeed look as though yours has been replaced for whatever reason, and the wires have been abandoned. If the tub gets up to temp (whatever you set it to) then I wouldn't worry about it. Coil it up, and leave it. On my tub, one of the 2-conductor cables goes to the temp sensor next to the light (through the spray foam) and the other cable goes to the pressure sensor on the top of the heater tube. I'm guessing the temp sensor went out since that is hard-wired to the connector, and the pressure sensor can be replaced without replacing the cables. Good luck!

I'm not entirely sure how to proceed with testing the relays. You might search this forum a little to see if anybody has a writeup on testing relays. As for the FLO message. I also had it on mine when I got it. The pressure switch was bad for me. Replaced a $20 part and done. Other things that can cause the message are: filter needing replaced, gate valves closed, or scaling inside the heater tube. Basically anything that restricts the "flow" of water through the heater tube. It is still possible that the whole board s bad, and finding just the board on these old tubs will prove to be challenging.

I am NOT an expert. Just a hobbyist with an basic knowledge of electricity, and its components. Hopefully a spa-expert will comment, too. I was gonna suggest that you have one or more bad relays, but since you got it to temp that means that the circulation pump and heater relays are working. Well, at least the low-speed on the circ pump. It's possible that the relay for the 2nd pump (do you have 2 pumps?) is shot, or the low-high speed relay for the 1st pump. Basically, it sounds like a stuck/bad relay to me. Again... Not an expert. :-)

I got the new pressure sensor, and installed it yesterday. The old one was indeed stuck in the on (pressurized) position. I think it's fixed at this point. Thanks, Spokanespas!

Great! Thanks! I've ordered the probe set and pressure sensor, and will replace as soon as they come in. I'll then post the results. Also, do those gate valves fail on EVERY hot tub? Seems every hot tub I've worked on for friends and family, they always leak water when closed. Is there any sort of remedy short of replacing the whole valve? Doesn't look like they come apart to replace seals. (glued?) DAN

Thanks Spokane, I'll check the resistance of the probes later today. As far as the "mashing," the buttons on the topside are actually quite responsive, I just meant trying multiple combinations of buttons to figure out which worked. BTW, are there other "hidden" features of this spa I should know about? The FLO is steady in the display when it is present, so I can test the pressure switch to see if it's sticking on. (or just replace it, not too expensive) There are 2 Dip Switches on the lower right of the circuit board where the silkscreen says "SW1 Filter Setting" Both are off, and I can't find anywhere to explain what they actually are or do. I also noticed the corrosion around the heater terminals. I still see no water, so I'm gonna let it ride for a little longer to make sure I don't have to put in an incredible amount of money first.

Hi everybody, I'm been lurking and searching here for the last several weeks since I acquired an old hot tub off Craigslist for free. Here is all the info I've gleaned off of it: It's a Discovery Spa SL800 (Can't find that make anywhere!) It has a Balboa ZX1000 control board And this Topside controller: The main recirc pump works great, both speeds. The secondary pump and blower don't work (not a problem right now.) The heater tests out great, and does indeed heat the water. When I first got it, I couldn't get it off ECON mode and thus couldn't get the water temp above 97F. But with enough button mashing, I found out how to turn that "feature" off. It will often stop running and display FLO, but if I mash the Jets button enough, it'll start back up again. I know it's trying to tell me that the flow switch is malfunctioning, but I've tested it with my meter, and it seems to be working fine. The other day, I came home and checked on it, and it displayed ILOC and nothing would work. I looked up that code, and found that it is an interlock for an open door panel or over-temp. There is no door-panel sensor/switch, so I guess I have to assume that it's an over-temp issue. I only set my temp to 102F, so I can't imagine that occurring unless the pump didn't start for some reason. Anyway, I cycled the breaker, and now we're back in business. TODAY, I went in the tub, and the normal FLO was displaying, but when I mashed the buttons, the pump started, and then SN1 appeared on the display. Dang... So, I looked THAT up, and it seems that code is for Hi-Limit sensor malfunction. WTF... I'm not sure how to test the sensor (what the resistance range should be, etc) Anyway, Sorry for the long post, but I was thinking that perhaps somebody might be able to shed some light on these issues. Could all of this indicate a bad board? Thanks for any help you can provide. :-) DAN