aaronkr

Hi, We just replaced the liner in an older (12-15 yrs) 15 x 30 ABG Oval Atlantic Pool and were going to use a Haward Wide Mouth skimmer as our new skimmer, but then realized the old skimmer was an odd size with different holes. Only a few of the new screw holes matched up with the old pattern. I have been looking online for different skimmers, but they all seem to be the same measurements and have the same hole pattern. The skimmer in question has a standard wide mouth pattern that measures 13-7/8" wide x 7-1/4" high. The screw pattern is three on the sides and five on the top and bottom each. It looks similar to this ___O O______ O _______ O O ___ I I I I O O O O O O I I I___O O______ O________ O O __ I On the outside of this pattern is another pattern and the total skimmer face plate measures 16-1/8" wide x 9-3/4" high. It is so old that there is no longer any names or model numbers located on the skimmer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Damian, The liner is not wasted, but you could've saved yourself a lot of work by using a deep leaf net and vacuuming out the algae and backwashing. It is a tedious process for about three days, but it is better than draining the pool. You should be able to get it back in place. The easiest way will be to pop a small section of liner out, if it's a beaded liner and stick a shop vac down inside the pool behind the liner and duct tape all of the openings. Turn it on and it will suck the excess air out of the liner. You may have to get in the pool to adjust the liner some, but you should be fine. Usually requires three to four people to adjust liner if you need to.

I have a Hayward H200 Millivolt Heater that was just installed about five days ago and after everything was plumbed in, I had the gas line hooked up. The heater was purchased brand new and when I turn it on and the switch to pilot, it starts leaking gas really bad. I am afraid to use it with the gas leaking and wondering if there may be a defective or faulty part that may need replaced.

We currently have three different levels of maintenance depending on the customers needs. A once/week cleaning is $55/wk plus chemicals. A bi-weekly cleaning is $65/wk plus chemicals. Our cleanings include brushing walls, vacuuming, cleaning baskets and backwashing. If we have to clean a filter, remove sand, etc... all of those side jobs have their own associated fee. If you would like, you can view a copy of our maintenance programs at http://www.hometownpoolstore.com/pool-service-agreement

I am trying to determine the best heating option for a 18' x 33' x 52" ABG. The pool is located in PA and the weather is very seasonal. I have read that heat pumps are not recommended if the temperature drops below 45 deg. Farenheit, but the pool will be closed late September - early October, depending on the weather. All of the heaters I have looked at are either natural gas or propane. I would like to not use either if possible. Would a heat pump be okay to use in this situation and what are some recommended manufacturers. Aside from how each device heats the pool,. are there any other major differences or are they pretty similar? Thank you in advance for any advice on this topic.

Thanks John, To be certain, I replaced the transformer first and then I tested the fuse (Bussman SC-20 Time Delay). It turned out that the fuse was bad, but I am still having an issue. Without the fuse in, I jumped the circuit to ensure their would be power with a new fuse and sure enough there was. I replaced the new fuse this morning and the GFCI breaker tripped instantly. I have contacted a spa professional, but they are stumped as well. I should mention that I replaced the pump with another brand new pump. So, I have a new pump, new transformer, new fuse and a breaker that still trips instantly now! Any advice is welcome to solve this problem.

I am fairly new in the industry and I have a customer that needs a quote for a 20' x 50' ING pool. He is putting it at a lodge/resort style place and I am pretty sure it falls under a commercial pool, but I am unaware of any of the codes associated with installing a commercial pool. I have been to a few websites, but I haven't been able to find anything that I could easily understand. I would greatly appreciate any insight on where to find this information and how to decipher it.

I have an early 2000's ThermoSpas 1900D Concorde model that will not turn on. The pump was bad, so I replaced the 2-speed pump (AE 23020-4) and when I did, only the low speed worked and it would shut off when it went to high speed. I tried switching the low and high speed wires, just in case I may of had them backwards. When I did this, the pump tripped the GFCI breaker instantly and then tripped the main breaker. When the pump was unplugged from the control board, everything else would still power up and work (blower, lights). I switched the wires back to the original configuration to at least get the pump running so it would circulate the water and when I did, nothing worked. Now, even with the pump unplugged, there is no power to the top-side control. I can hear the pump click on, but that is it. Is there a possibility that the transformer could have blown and needs replaced? It is a Cin-Tran 30274 transformer and the spa pack is Balboa.

I was able to adjust the flow switch and it started working. Again, thank you for all of the advice everyone has provided.

John, Thank you for the advice. I will test the connections of the flow switch and try the procedure you recommended. I just replaced the flow switch about a week ago. Is it possible I could have received a bad flow switch, or when inserting the flow switch into the T, can you make it too tight or doesn't that have an affect on it. Again, I appreciate everyones feedback and support with this matter. I just can't wait to get the problem solved. Thank you

Thank you for the advice Spa_Guru, but like John said, this tub doesn't have a pressure switch. It only has a flow switch and I just replaced it. I also took the filters out of the tub and it was still giving me the same FLO, COOL, 81 message. I can see the water running through the clear fitting where the flow switch is installed. Is it possible that the heater needs to be replaced, or would that not be an option in this case? If not, what would the next recommended steps be to properly diagnose the problem. Thank you again for your feedback.

I have a 2003 Jacuzzi hot tub, model J-355 and it will not heat up past 81 deg. F The topside control panel continuosly flashes between FLO, Cool and the temperature. I replaced the flow switch after reading articles about FLO errors. After replacing the flow switch, I continue to get the same error message. I have checked the filters and cleaned them out. There is enough water in the tub and both pumps are running. Could the heater need replaced? Or what else could be causing the error message.