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Paul Driftwood

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  1. Transformers are usually very reliable. If you have an ohm meter you could check the primary windings, then the secondaries, (likely two lower voltage outputs) for continuity (power off, of course). Then check for continuity between a primary lead and any of the secondaries. If there is continuity here, the tranformer needs replacing. I'm suspect the issue is elsewhere.
  2. Thanks all 68 people to date who had the interest to help with my problem-- --which was mostly self inflicted. I had to remove the board to find a blown piece of circuit board on the neutral relay. So the following information is provided to be passed on to a qualified electrician in your jurisdiction. The jumper cables tell much of the story, remember this is a VS501Z board and from the inside case diagram: Relay K6 is fed by the Black line going to pump 1 Relay K1 is fed by the Neutral going to pump 1 Now-Red is LIVE right through to pump 1, all at J23 connector. NOTE HERE that red on the board becomes WHITE on the cable to the motor, so White is LIVE on the pump. Someone asked about the fuse F4, just to the right of the incoming power block- it connects to the input of the step down transformer for the computerized section of the board. Relay K4 is the switch for the left terminal of the heater, while K2 and K3 seem to be a tandem set of relays for the right side heater terminal. I'm not sure if this info is duplicated elsewhere, but anyone who has more info to consolidate is welcomed here, who knows I may have to come back sometime for more. Hope it can be of assistance to others. PaulD
  3. Top picture is a gate valve, and likely the locking pin on it is broken or detached. If you rotate the T handle and push down on it, you will find a position in the rotation where you can push it all the way down. Used only when you have to remove the control unit for repair. The other valve should be on the other side of the pump. Used spa? Likely they will leak some...
  4. Its not a schematic but I got this VS-501Z G_StickerKit54356HC3.pdf at aquaspa.com. Shows where your .3 amp fuse is located.
  5. VS501Z Balboa electrical Our Balboa system did not seem to filter long enough to clear the water after chemical addition, staining the seats, floor, walls. so we decided to put a switch to activate the pump while the spaguts was off. Something went wrong with the installation and on the first activation the main fuse (30A) blew. (fuse was replaced, and all other fuses checked ok) So now upon activation the Balboa displays its ID and gets to the "PR" mode and the jets light on the panel goes on. To prime, pressing the jets button activates the relays, but not the motor. So I checked the line voltage to find that when the Balboa is powered up, the motor voltage is 120volts (shoudn't it be '0'?) When PR is showing, the voltage will go to 240, but as I say the motor will not work. Would anyone know if I may have fused the contacts on a 110V relay that goes to the low motor speed. and which relay that is. (K1, or K6, likely, but it would better to know. Is there a better analysis? Would appreciate any advice. Thanks Paul
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