kpolak

We are building a new house, and plan on a new 'portable' 7+' x 7+' spa. We planned 50a for the spa, and have it run to the planned location. We liked a Jacuzzi spa. It requires 40A/50A/60A power. A couple of questions, and I think I know the answers, but would like a second opinion. 1. The salesman said the spa will operate, but one system will shut down (heat) if both pumps are operating, if we only have 50A. 2. Salesman said we can add a 60A breaker to a 6ga cable. Is the typical new spa designed for 60a? Thank you.

We have relocated from our indoor spa with our built-in spa with gas heat, and motor and pumps located on the garage. I ran fresh water, bromine, clorine, and fimally stayed with chlorine. Thank you for the help. We are now purchasing a new 'portable' 7+' x 7+' hot tub spa, in Texas. First we saw and liked is Jacuzzi, with a Uv sanitizing system. The salesman poo-pooed all other chemical sanitizing systems, calling bromine harsh, and destructive. (I don't agree) Also he said jacuzzi will only support a fresh water system. I am more of a practice guy, and I am the one that will maintain and repair the spa, so that will come into play as well. I didn'T mind the daily maintenance with liquid chlorine. So, thoughts on sanitizing systems? Are there other new systems I should look into? Thank you for your thoughts.

Thanks for all the help...I did thepool coping, plumbing, digging, and digging, and digging, myself, so I've been busy. Just finished starting the pool...Ya in Late September. The concrete needs to fully cure (28--days) before I put a winter cover on of the outline of the cover will be faded around the exposed concrete. I did have the concrete installed by a company that specializes in stamped concrete and the liner installed by a highly recommended professional. I sure do appreciate all the help you have provided. Here's the finished, (almost) project: PS The pipe sticking up is for a slide in the spring. Thanks again, Kurt

Thanks, Kurt

Thanks for the help. Where should I be as far as pump size and heater size? Kurt

Ready to start renovation on the 16' x 40' lazy 'L' pool, approximately 23,000 gallons. Hayward 1-1/2 hp superpump with a 1-1/2" inlet Hayward S244T Sand filter Hayward H250FD Heater (250,000 btu) My typical pressure at the filter is 12 psi. Existing suction and return lines are 1-1/2" All other piping past the pump to the filter and heater are 1-1/2" Return lines are 1-1/2" Since we are replacing the skimmers I wanted to make sure the underground is updated. I am planning to make sure the suction lines are schedule 40, and the rest of the existing lines will be pressure tested. The pool seems to work well when all the suction lines are open, but I can't turn off one skimmer to increase pressure to vacuum, as it causes air to enter the system, and the pump starts to cavitate. I am planning to investigate the the piping, and make sure all is in tact. Should I upsize the suction lines to 2"? Thanks, Kurt

Thanks for the help!

I'm not sure I understand...Should I keep the existing Suction/Return flex lines if they test out or just plan to replace them? Is there a minimum slope to these or should they be installed flat? I'm not sure what the 1/2" line is. It is not connected at the pump. There is a connection for a slide, that was removed, in the existing concrete near the pool, this may have been a supply to the slide. One more thing I am questioning is the black flex lilne from the top of the pump to the filter. Is this necessary? Can I hard pipe it? Thanks, Kurt

We are planning to remodel our 16'x40' lazy 'L' in ground liner pool with poly walls. It appears to have been installed in 1985, per the stamps on the concrete. It looks like the previous owners recently installed a new Filter, Pump, and heater, but the local plumbing wil need to be replaced, as it is not installed per the Owner's manual, and not schedule 40. Remodel will consist of: Remove and replace exisiting concrete with integrally colored/stamped concrete. Install new steel mesh around perimeter of pool, and electrically bond per current code. New liner New skimmers. One of the 2 existing Pentair skimmers is cracked, and our liner installer recommended to replace both, as older Pentair parts are difficult to find. New piping at the filter/heater/pump. The exting plumbing lines (flexible poly?) will be pressure tested, prior to the concrete install. How do you determine if the exisiting main plumbing should be replaced? If so what should they be replaced with? I have experience installing sch40 PVC, (advanced homeowner DIY, and worked as an Architect for 12-years), should I plan to tackle this one myself, or leave it to the professionals? Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Kurt