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Bchnit1

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  1. Oh and sorry about the web reference, I should and do know better.
  2. Thanks waterbear. I must have mis-measrured the muriatic acid when I added the boric acid. The pH was off the scale yellow. Next time I know to test everything one last time after the BA addition, DUH! First thing I got was a Taylor Bromine kit after buying the spa so I'm good with test reults. Just need to use it!!
  3. Looks like too much bromine starter lowered the pH VERY low. I added starter after balancing the water and didnt check the pH again. Didn't realize my son had added also. Added soda ash to raise pH and it cleared instantly. Found the below trying to figured it out. Clear Yellow Water Spa water that is tinted clear yellow usually indicates a high bromine residual and a low pH. This is fairly common with bromine spa systems, because the bromine can discolor the Phenol Red used to test pH. The pH reading looks higher than it actually is, which often causes the mistaken addition of more pH decreaser. The higher the bromine reading, the more tendency to discolor the pH test, so it can become a vicious cycle. When testing pH for brominated spas, use up to 5 drops of chlorine neutralizer to ensure that you are getting a more accurate reading. When the pH and total alkalinity are properly adjusted, the yellow discoloration should go away. Note: This information is intended for a residential spa with average use. It is not designed for public, commercial, or semi-public spas. If your hot tub is used more than three times per week, you should check and make chemical additions more often than suggested.
  4. So I came home from vacation to find my tub a mess- week long party by my 22 year old. The water was very cloudy. He had drained and refilled and claims to have been adding chlorine. It is a bromine spa 450 gallons. I drained 1/2 and refilled, Balanced the water- 7.8 pH, 50 TA, 230 CH, 30ppm borates. Added 2 capfuls bromine starter and 6oz 10% liquid chlorine. The water immediatly turned a golden color. I tested the bromine and it was at 4ppm after 10 minutes where if the water was clear should have been approx 12. I assume the gold color is due to an algae bloom die off??? Please help.
  5. Hello all. Thanks for all the fantastic info on this forum. I've learned so much. I just bought my first spa, 500 gal Artesian Island and love it. Had it for 2 weeks and am researching chemistry and sanitation like a mad man to the point of obsession. The spa has an ozonater and the dealer set me up with an initial Spa Frog system. I've got 1 unused bromine cartridge and once it is done I'm dumping the Frog for bromine tabs in a floater (I've researche the 3 partbromine set up system). We have heavy use with teenage kids and friends and the low level of bromine was not keeping up with the bio load. With all the dichlor/bleach additions it makes no sense to spend the money on the Frog IMO. I initially was shocking with MPS and swithched to dichlor. After learning about the CYA I've swithched to bleach since the CYA levels should be more then sufficient now.. I have a good understanding of basic chem and the relationship between TA and pH as I also have a reef aquarium. I understand that borate helps buffer the pH by keeping the alk from dropping. I currently have the following parameters pH 8 TA 90 CH 250 I've got a Taylor K2106 ordered and have been using my neighbors pool test kit . Here are my concerns. 1-Pool calculator states TA should be 50-80. Manufacturer states TA should be 80-140. Is low TA going to affect the spa in any hardware way physically, or only the pH buffering? I have not added boric acid yet until I get the TA proper. 2- Adding boric acid should increase the TA without affecting pH, thereby increasing the buffering capacity, correct? If so I can see why lowering to 50 is ok as the borate will increase TA back up near manufacture's recommended. 3- In order to maintain a sufficient Calcium level TA needs to be at a certain level to be balanced (at least it does in my aquarium) and stop the precipitation of calcium carbonate. Given my Ca level do I need to worry about Ca falling out of solution if I drop the TA further? 4- Once TA is balanced how much borate do I add? I assume there is not much borate in city water. I will be using 20 Mule and muriatic acid. Thanks for any help and suggestions.
  6. I realized the above is most likely better in a new thread. No way I see to delete so I've reposted.
  7. Hello all. Thanks for all the fantastic info on this forum. I've learned so much. I just bought my first spa, 500 gal Artesian Island and love it. Had it for 2 weeks and am researching chemistry and sanitation like a mad man to the point of obsession. The spa has an ozonater and the dealer set me up with an initial Spa Frog system. I've got 1 unused bromine cartridge and once it is done I'm dumping the Frog for bromine tabs in a floater (I've researche the 3 partbromine set up system). We have heavy use with teenage kids and friends and the low level of bromine was not keeping up with the bio load. With all the dichlor/bleach additions it makes no sense to spend the money on the Frog IMO. I initially was shocking with MPS and swithched to dichlor. After learning about the CYA I've swithched to bleach since the CYA levels should be more then sufficient now.. I have a good understanding of basic chem and the relationship between TA and pH as I also have a reef aquarium. I understand that borate helps buffer the pH by keeping the alk from dropping. I currently have the following parameters pH 8 TA 90 CH 250 I've got a Taylor K2106 ordered and have been using my neighbors pool test kit . Here are my concerns. 1-Pool calculator states TA should be 50-80. Manufacturer states TA should be 80-140. Is low TA going to affect the spa in any hardware way physically, or only the pH buffering? I have not added boric acid yet until I get the TA proper. 2- Adding boric acid should increase the TA without affecting pH, thereby increasing the buffering capacity, correct? If so I can see why lowering to 50 is ok as the borate will increase TA back up near manufacture's recommended. 3- In order to maintain a sufficient Calcium level TA needs to be at a certain level to be balanced (at least it does in my aquarium) and stop the precipitation of calcium carbonate. Given my Ca level do I need to worry about Ca falling out of solution if I drop the TA further? Thanks for any help and suggestions.
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