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moishe's Achievements

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  1. deld, have you tried the CalTreat? These cartridges are 2.5" (6.35cm) x 9.75" (24.765cm), giving a max. volume of about 3l of resin if filled to the brim. My LT8 contains about 27l of resin, if I calculated correctly. So If I was going to fill my 1600l (423gal) tub using 260ppm CH tapwater aiming for 130ppm CH, I would expect to go through somewhere around 9 cartridges (or regenerations) for a fill. Your water is even harder than mine, so you might expect to go through 10 on a same size tub. 10 cartridges cost 190$ (or alternatively 9 overnight regeneration cycles, which means it would take you well over a week to fill the tub using one cartridge). So you might want to look for a larger filter.
  2. Now I've found something that works: I've obtained by online auction for somewhere around 50€ a water softener normally used with professional Italian coffee makers: The DVA LT8. The pictures show it after I fitted a couple of German standard garden hose quick connectors to it. According to the specs it softens 900l of 22°dH (400ppm CaCO3) water before it has to be regenerated using 1kg of salt. The water here is said to have 20°dH (I measured by multiple titration 260ppm CH as mentioned in the first post above). I estimated that I would be able to fill my 1600l tub in one go (without regeneration) and come out around 100-130ppm. As I didn't quite trust that estimate, I regenerated once at half fill. I had to add 100g of calcium chloride dihydrate to bring it back up to 120-130ppm CH from the resulting 60ppm CH. Next time I will go by my original estimate... :-) One thing I'm not quite sure about is what do I do with the water softener while it is not in use. I will only need it every couple of months, when I refill the tub. During the interim there is always a residual amount of water in it, keeping the resin wet and therefore the whole container humid. Is this harmful? Will I have to decontaminate it before use? Will a regeneration cycle with that 1kg of NaCl provide sufficient decontamination? Or will I have to make an effort to take out and dry the resin before storage?
  3. Ok, zeolite was an interesting idea, but it's not practical for this application. It comes almost in powder form and the sieves that are available at acceptable prices are just not fine enough to contain it. Bottom line: You can't filter water though zeolith without bringing at least some of the zeolith into the water and therefore the pool. Thankfully the stuff sticks together and deposits at the water line, so I was able to get it out within a week or so and didn't have to change the water. In its normal use in washing detergents this is irrelevant as it is drained together with the water it softens.
  4. Zeolith A is so cheap since it's so widely used as a water softener in washing machine detergents. If I understand correctly, for this application it inclucedes natrium ions which are exchanged for the calcium ions, so it seems to be set up to work just like a resin with the main difference being that resins are usually regenerated for multiple use and this stuff is usually used only once. So I've obtained some from a source for diy modular detergent components and I'm almost ready with my filtering setup, so I'll be able to report in a couple of days.
  5. I can't really comment on Leisureteq. With my Lamotte kit the main issue has been drying the equipment after use. I don't want to get too much humidity in the case. Therefore I recently set up a drying rack using some shishkebab sticks and a leftover wooden block: Better ideas, anyone? [edit] I hadn't commented on this earlier. The problem with search results is that search engines have a heck of a hard time giving good results on terms as short as these. Some simply refuse searching for 3-letter searchterms. [end edit]
  6. HEDP seems to stand for a number of things. I expect you mean 1-hydroxyethan-1 C2H8O7P2 or CH3C(OH)(PO3H2)2 . This seems somewhat hard to come by at a reasonable price, unless what I need is like a really miniscule amount per water change. We're talking about 30EUR plus shipping for 2g at 96% purity! [EDIT] At your suggested 1 to 10mg/l I'm looking at 1.6 to 16g per water change, so I'll be somewhere between 30 and 250EUR. This is not promising. [/EDIT] By what I can see looking at the Vanishing Act Calcium Remover, I am suspecting it could be simply a bag containing a molecular sieve, such as Zeolith A, which is readily available here and really cheap. The only drawback I see is that I will have to vaccuum it out afterwards if I can't contain it in some kind of bag like the one Vanishing Act comes in. As it's a hot tub, I wasn't planning on getting a vacuum... http://www.ultrachem.in/zeolite-a.htm mentions an average grain size of 4microns. Don't know whether that's just manufacturer-specific. I'm considering obtaining a 1micron filter bag like the ones at http://www.filterker...lterbeutel.html and simply hanging a scoop of Zeolith A in the skimmer/filter intake. Do you think this is worth trying?
  7. After a couple of days worth of experience using the kit mainly to test CH and TA and occasionally the other parameters I must say I am quite impressed and satisfied. The tests are easy to perform and the results are clear cut. During titration I frequently see a color change limited to the area where the drop enters the liquid to be tested, which either resolves on its own or through my swirling the test tube. Sometimes on the last two or three drops a beginning color change can be noticed, which does not resolve. The latter would be what you're describing. I understand you are supposed to follow through until the color change is complete. I suppose you could subtract half a drop for the calculation to reflect the early start of a permanent color change, but as with any measurement you have to realize that the result will not be more accurate than the mode of measurement allows. So measuring The TA using a dropwise titration at 20ppm per drop, using 10 drops until the color change is complete, you will get a value of 200ppm which would be exact up to +/-10ppm at best. If you subtract half a drop for early starting color change, this would give you a value of 190ppm. And I would think that this would have to be interpreted with the same absolute exactness of +/-10ppm at best.
  8. Thanks chem geek, I think I understand now. :-) I was planning to continue using bleach/dichlor. Changing to another method is not entirely out of the question if need be, but I'd probably try with another sequestrant first.
  9. I live in an area with fairly hard tap water - 260ppm - and I have neither a decalcifier nor a well with soft water. Therefore I don't have the option of changing part of the water in order to lower the CH. I was targeting 130ppm and the local spa dealer sold me a liquid "hardness stabilizer", consisting of a "mixture of carboxylates". Adding about 25ml to my 1600l spa brought me down to 200ppm. Gradually adding up to 100ml more in steps of 20ml had no effect at all. The CH remains on a plateau of 200ppm. Looking through the old posts I only found one possibly fitting reference to carboxylates: I am going out on a limb in suspecting that part of what is causing the high CH has been felled by the carboxylates and is probably now residing in the filter, but another part is still in solution and is not being touched by them? I guess 200ppm CH is acceptable, but I'd still like to understand what's going on...
  10. Spanky, thanks for the pointers. Good one about "splash out" as well - I have kids.:-) The Aquafinesse Spa Clean arrived today and has already been put to the task. Will clean rim and cover and check the filter and chlorine level in the morning... Oh boy, am I looking forward to using the tub again after all this is done!
  11. chem geek, thanks for your insight on this! You are certainly making a strong case for using borates. As as an end user I don't seem to stand a chance of getting them here, I'll just have to stock up on 20-mule-team on my next visit to the states... BTW: What's the mileage on a box? Yes, Aquafinesse is definitely available here and there's one on the way to me now. Thank you for pointing me there! They suggest to use it on every water change. Is that advisable or just them trying to sell more of their product?
  12. I've been looking around several shops and quite some time has passed... No, it's not made specifically for pool/spa use. I is advertised as a multi purpose cleaner. I realize it's not borax - I'll can the borax issue for now and wait for an opportunity to get some 20-mule-team from the states. None of the spa shops or specialists I've talked to over here have of have heard of any product with enzymes for spas. So if this stuff is unsuitable for use in following Nitro's Approach to Decontamination then I'm at a loss for what to do to combat the toilet paper syndrome I'm faced with. No, this is definitely the Dichlor. And it is for pool/spa use. So the current status is: I'm all set up with test equipment (Lamotte) and all regular maintenance chemicals. Thanks for all your help on these issues. What's missing at this point is the right thing - enzymes - for a thorough decontamination.
  13. Just thought I'd give an update: I ordered the Lamotte Kit through Sword Scientific. They seemed somewhat confused, not getting their quotes straight and quoting me shipping costs in EUR which they then charged in GBP, but I finally did get the kit shipped to Germany within about 2 weeks at a total cost to me of 144EUR. Steep I must say, but the kit does look impressive. Will get to work with it shortly... :-) Thanks btw for bearing with my ignorance of abbreviations.
  14. Umm, sorry I have to ask, but the terms are just to short to get good search results for and I can't ever seem to see them written out. What do OTO, FAS and DPD each stand for?
  15. Thanks, waterbear! I found something labeled Schnell-Chlor (i.e. speed chlorine) at the hardware store. The main ingredient is Natriumdichlorisocyanuratdihydrat which according to the chembook would translate to SODIUM DICHLOROISOCYANURATE DIHYDRATE, so I guess this is the right stuff. Also, in order to follow Nitro's Approach to Decontamination, I obtained some enzyme cleaner which just arrived today. The ingredients are <5% non-ionic tensides, 15-30% phosphates, 15-30% oxygen-based bleaching agent (Sodium perborate), enzymes. Two things surprise me: if the enzymes make up the unspecified remainder of the volume, they would be around 35-69% of the cleaner. Can this be right - and can it be the right stuff for the job? Sodium perborate (with ten water molecules) sound a lot like sodium tetraborate decahydrate, but I guess it is not Borax. Anyway, I wouldn't want to introduce the cleaner's other ingredients into the regular pool water. Am I on the right track here?
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