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Spanky

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  1. pH & TA from a Newbie perspective Let me start by saying I am by no means an expert in this area. What knowledge I do have is a result of reading many excellent posts by Waretbear, Chem Geek and others, while making just about every mistake a newbie could possibly make. Once I got my Taylor 2106 kit I was bound and determined to get my water numbers perfect but really didn’t understand the pH – TA relationship so I found myself chasing my tail adding acid then baking soda over and over again. Looks like many others have found themselves in the same boat, so I’m posting this from a Newbie perspective. 1) Set your CH properly - I have mine @ 150 2) Set your TA to 80 (this is only a starting point) and stop believing that somehow it will magically stay there and don’t freak when it drops. I was testing almost daily and automatically added baking soda every time I got a reading below 80. Now I check it weekly and only add baking soda when it drops to 50. (add enough to return to 80) 3) Adjust pH to 7.6 and monitor pH every time you use the tub BUT only verify that it is between 7.5 and 8.0. Do not keep making adjustments if it’s within this range. I actually use a small OTO type test kit for this, not the Taylor, it gives a fast "Go / No Go" pH and BR reading. If the reading looks "No Go", I confirm with the Taylor and use the acid drop count to make adjustments. Obviously aeration causes pH to rise and we all use the jets and air injectors in our hot tubs, so pH rise is an anticipated fact of life. Let it rise until it reaches 8.0 then adjust with acid. The addition of acid will lower the pH but the next time we turn on the jets, more bicarbonate will be outgassed thus lowering TA, but again don’t worry until it reaches 50. You’ll find that the pH rise will always be present but should slow down. Currently I find myself adding about ¾ oz. Muriatic acid weekly and about 3-4 ounces of baking soda every couple of weeks in a 350 gal tub. I'm not sure what would happen if you don't add baking soda when the TA reaches 50 but like I said it takes a couple of weeks so it's no big deal. BTW: This last water change I added 50ppm Borates (Borax + Muriatic Acid mixed in a bucket) The pH rise is still there but it gives you some peace of mind knowing that there is additional buffering so you don't panic when the TA hits 50 or lower.
  2. I wouldn't worry too much about decontam if you're not having problems of high sanitizer demand. I certainly would use an enzime spa flush. Remember "an ounce pf prevention is worth a pound of cure". A submersible pump is a worthwhile investment. It makes short work of the draining process. I just flushed and refilled mine this weekend but this time I added 50ppm of borax. Wasn't that difficult to do. The water looks and feels great!
  3. I certainly don’t claim to be an expert in this area by any means but I did go through a white mold problem last summer. First of all, follow the decontamination process "Letter for Letter". It is extremely important to use Spa Flush and let it sit overnight. Use an enzyme product which will break down the Biofilm that protects the mold. Check the label, I initially used a Spa flush which I think was Phosphoric Acid. It did clear some calcium deposits but did little to break up the Biofilm. While you’re doing the decontamination , lay the cover upside down in the sunlight. You did mention you had “Black Mold” on the inside of the cover. UV (sunlight) is usually effective in killing the spores.
  4. If you follow Waterbear's 3 step bromine process you should be fine. The drop to 0 may be a result of not having a proper "reserve". Keep a close eye on it for the next week or so and if you still encounter rapid dropping bromine then you may have something growing in the spa. Yes it does happen with new spas!! In that case follow the Decontamination process
  5. Hot Tub essentials sells Fix-a-Leak in Canada. http://www.hottubessentials.ca/Fix-A-Leak.html
  6. I've been reading this fourm for almost a year now and can only say "Thank you" to Waterbear Chem Geek, Nitro and all others. I first got my Hot Tub in April 2011, and like many others, tried my best to figure the thing out on my own. Didn't take long to get into real trouble with the water balance. I'm just now beginning to understand things and it's 100% due to the excellent posts from the major members of this fourm. You have not only made my tub "Safe" but have also saved me a ton of cash. I did buy a Taylor Test kit (Best advice ever) and follow Waterbear's 3 step bromine program. My results from yesterday: CH : 150 TA : 90 Ph : 7.6 Br. : 3.5 Once again Thank you!!!!!!
  7. It may be an Ozone line.... Does one end attach to a jet? (Ozone injector) If I'm right, then you will have to make a "Hartford loop" and attach a check vave to the open end to stop the water from backing through the tube
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