djmatte

I do have an ozonator and the pristine blue setup does utilize a shocking system to sanitize on top of it. I was not so concerned about how it disinfects. But the fact that I went 2 days of no use (after shocking it) and it was THAT green left me a little irritated. Either way, I went with old faithful chlorine. I know it and its a cheaper option in the long run. At least I didn't shell out money for the PB only to find out it wouldn't work for me.

Well with the new hot tub came a free pack of new chemicals. We were offered the option of a chlorine pack or pristine blue. I really wanted to give the PB pack a go since it was free. Absolute PITA. I really liked how it felt, but out of 2 attempts, I had to scrap it. On both runs, I ended up with really green and cloudy water. After the first run, I ran a jet cleaner and emptied the tub twice to make sure it was mostly cleared. The second specifically I was exceptionally cognizant of what I was doing and when. Everything looked good the first 3 days where we used it twice and shocked both nights. 2 days of no use, and the green cloudy color was back. This green should show up when there is too much PB in the system, but I checked on the test kit and it only read .3 (which calls for adding more PB). Had a digital sample done at the dealer and they couldn't pick up any BP in the water sample at all! Needless to say I am back to chlorine and won't look back. Learned my lesson for sure though!

So the signature spa uses a gecko3 system which has a filter frequency (x times per day) and duration option (x hours at a time). Our last tub didn't have this option for filtering...I think it was all constant. What would be the best setup?

Ok I sorted out the issue with the wiring. Turns out it is the exact same gauge and amps as the last tub. So my next dilemma. The only cable sold locally was a 55 amp wire. If 55 amp wire is running off a 50 amp circuit, can this cause any problems to the tub or circuit box? (tub is a 50 amp tub)

So we went with the signature spa and got it installed. The problem we ran into was the gfci cable was tooshort (accessed in back and not front like old tub). The problem I am running into is what cable to get to lengthen it. Here are the spec requirements from the old and the new tubs: New: GFCI box and pack terminal block is required. Your spa requires a 4-wire, 50 amp or 60 amp (depending on the spa model), 230 volt subfeed in non metallic pipe to the spa equipment compartment. Old: Power hook-up to the spa must be 240 volt 3 wire plus ground (6 AWG copper). Under those paramaters, I am presuming the original gfci box is running at 240v. Would this work for the new tub which is running at 230? My next concern is the 3 to 4 wire conversion. Can I simply exchange the wires or would it need a whole new plug within the box to support? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

haha I would presume that dealer sells all those brands that are a 10 across? Interesting...I didn't notice the spa ratings banner across the top there until you just pointed it out. I have read one company's website saying they were offering the company's spas as a cheaper entry level spa for new customers. Not sure what exact delineates entry level from more advance spas. Specs seem better than my old downeast. But I guess that's masterspas "entry level".

Hi all. Been a while since I last was here. Our old downeast spa bit the dust this winter and rather than spend money to fix up a 10 year old spa, we decided to look into a new one. A local Jacuzzi dealer had a Signature S-12 tub available for about 7k. I haven't seen much info on the brand, but it would definitely fit in our price range and space requirements with a few bells that we are interested in. Any thoughts or comments on the brand? Flaws we should be aware of or on the lookout for? Here's a link to the specific tub if anyone needs the specs. http://signaturespasusa.com/S12.html

I've used strips in my hot tub since I started using it. I know a lot of people here advocate for liquid, but I just didn't see the kits here for sale and hate to buy simple things like that over the net. Well I just found a kit and grabbed it up when I saw it. http://www.meijer.com/s/kokido-6-way-pool-water-test-kit/_/R-215999 Now since I've been using it, it shows that my chlorine levels are fine and my pH levels are around 7.5-6ish. But when I look at the strips, the pH looks closer to 7.2-7.4, chlorine 5, and free chlorine as 0.5-1. The above kit doesn't test free chlorine. Is this a stat I should worry about so long as the overall chlorine is doing fine?

This website is being listed on google as a malicious website. It essentially won't let any traffic past their search page. When you hand type the address into the firefox browser, it won't let you in unless disable "block attack sites". I've used this site on and off as my go to location for information. Webmaster may want to sort it out. Here's the message I get when I google it: Warning - visiting this web site may harm your computer! Suggestions: Return to the previous page and pick another result. Try another search to find what you're looking for. Or you can continue to http://www.poolspaforum.com/ at your own risk. For detailed information about the problems we found, visit Google's Safe Browsing diagnostic page for this site. For more information about how to protect yourself from harmful software online, you can visit StopBadware.org. If you are the owner of this web site, you can request a review of your site using Google's Webmaster Tools. More information about the review process is available in Google's Webmaster Help Center. Advisory provided by Google

Well at first just the GFCI was tripping after a few hours of running. Eventually the fuse on the main circuit board would blow. After someone looked at it (i wasn't there at the time), now the GFCI will just keep tripping the minute I set it.

So it looks like he listed the primary motor blowing the fuse on the circuit board. Does this sound right? When I first was having the problems, the motor and pump ran fine. Only after a few hours would the fuse blow. I also noticed he didn't put the capacitor back into the tub either. Which makes me wonder if he even has the right diagnosis. Now, when I put the capacitor back on and flip on the breaker, that kills immediately. Nothing on this hot tub is making any sense.

Broke down and had someone come out and look at my tub. Over the phone they said there was a bad pump and would cost 499 for parts and 2 hours labor. So roughly 800-1000 for everything. The pump and jets were running fine with no abnormal sounds. The only problem was a fuse that would blow after a few hours of running. I can't help but think there is something less expensive than this. Any thoughts? I will check the paperwork later and give more info on what was up.

I did notice my capacitor yesterday wasn't getting readings on my multimeter. I will also get this checked and swapped out tonight. Any other thoughts?

So after finding the fuse and replacing it, everything seemed to work fine until the fuse suddenly blew again once the heater got around the 100 degree mark. The breaker isn't tripping anymore though. Just the fuse blowing. I did notice the 3 wires (two listed as hot) appeared as though the coatings looked like they were starting to melt or deteriorate right near where they screw into the board. Ithink they are the ones that come from the breaker box. Not sure if this could cause some overheating or if something else is causing it. Any thoughts on where to look next?

Hey Kenny. Thanks for the fast reply. Right now I have it open and the only place I can think the board could be located is the black waterproof box toward the right rear of the tub. There are wires that go up underneath it and an odd rubber area under one side of it...but no way I can find to open it up. Any suggestions? The pump didn't sound any louder and more or less seemed to be working fine overall.

Hey all, I am encountering a new problem with my spa. For some background, I bought this house a year ago and the spa that came with was a 2005 Masterspa. We've run it for about a year now without a hitch until just now. The breaker box over the last few days has been randomly cutting off. I would go and flip the switch when I notice it and everything seems to run fine. Check later on and power is out again. I read around and seems like it could be a heating element. But when I went back to check this morning and flip the switch, now I get power to the main console, but no response from the pump. Any suggestions on what to check? Hate to think I have to replace the whole thing. Thanks in advance!

Just out of curiosity, where you suggest let it sit overnight, does that mean kill the power to the tub as well or just let them run as normal through the night?

I've poked around here and haven't seen similar issues, but wondering if anyone had a similar experience. I bought a house a year ago with a hot tub. I made a point clean it out and its been running like a champ since. I've used a bromine tab floater with it and had no problems the whole time. We had a recent thaw and I took advantage to empty the tub, clean it out and give a spa frog mineral piece a try because it supposedly extended the life of the bromine tabs which I was changing out ever 4ish days. This is the one that sits in the filter area. At first, it seemed to do the trick. Bromine levels were reading fine, all the chemistry was on point and my bromine tabs were lasting way longer than I expected. But after 3 consecutive nightly uses, I noticed about 4 or 5 deep boils on my back and in some cases some oddly dry skin. I removed the frog from the system...made sure the chemistry was still ok and everything cleared up within a couple days. A friend suggested it could be an allergic reaction to the metals used in the spa frog, but its hard to google that since most people suggest the frog for those allergic to bromine/chlorine chemicals. Anyone else have a similar experience?