countspacula

well yeah, if a substandard repair was made. but if the repair was performed with the correct gauge and proper connection, then it would be no different than adding an extra light on the porch. if an electrician installed a new light fixture, had it up to at least the minimum code of the area, inspected etc.., and it caused a fire, would they cover it? they would if everything was correct. what if it were and ancient Hurricane controlled unit, you replace the heater say.......and the manual high limit didnt work correctly or whatever and the tub heated to 200 degrees, would they cover your burned leg if you fell in it? probably. houses burn daily because of electrical issues.........and most are covered under accidental losses.

dumb question but what is the average temp. at your location? reason i ask is that: it IS possible for the heater element to draw amperage, yet not heat and NOT trip the breaker. Alot of tubs will maintain in the 90's without a heater, in warmer temps. one way to test the heater for physical proof that its heating is to catch it with the pump running, heat light on, then unplug the pump wire and feel and listen, the heater should make a sizzle sound and heat the tube rapidly. I suspect a heater relay OR the element itself.

the caps are easily changed if you can use a soldering gun. make sure to order the correct uf rating (it will have it on the capacitor itself. They may cost $5 each if they were made of gold, very cheap parts.

put it in standard mode and leave it there. May take over an hour to show temp difference, then 2 - 5 degrees an hour.

As long as the system is connected properly to a GFCI breaker, the pack GFCI can be bypassed.

well, first, are your sure the pump is turning? If possible, you can remove a small round "plug" on the very back of the motor, and actually view if its turning or not. If its turning and no water is moving, then its the pump (impeller broken, siezed, obstructed, air locked etc...) If it is not turning, then either the pump is keeping it from turning, OR you have a capacitor problem, best case. Worst case, motor is bad and needs replacing.

more info please. does it run some and then need resetting? trip breaker, describe scenerio..............

makes no matter with cover on or off, circulation pump or not.

6 to 8 teaspoons granulated chlorine per week, 2 of the shock after each use, simple. forget ph games.

check out ACC retrofit kits, or better yet the M7 VS Balboa retrofit kits, both run circles around gekkkyyyooo and cost far less. Careful with ACC, they come with the pump speeds reversed in the pack so pins have to be moved around on the amp style receptacles.

none better to get explanations from than the one that has an answer for everything and knows all about all.

well, it has both sensors in the plastic housing as well, you can retrofit it with a far cheaper tube type heater BUT you have to know what you are doing for sure.

Board time for sure! welcome to the world of gecko, aka junk

Got this worked out. The blower heater wire plugs right beside the black hot blower lead.

tub brand? electronics brand?

is it in a plastic housing? or a metal tube?

more info please, what board? what name brand, what topside???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

the sensors will not trip the breaker, good or bad

if the breaker only trips with the heater hooked up, and doesnt with it unhooked, then yes its the heater. And yes, you "could" put any heater you want to as long as it fits, but only if you are willing to make changes/adaptions to your system.

where would one attach the red wire for a heated blower on a new M-spa board change??

you may have just cleared something out of the switch, but more likely, you compensated for reduced flow of some cause. Be careful that your pressure switch isnt too "lazy" make sure that the heater turns off when the pump is not running. An easy test is to make sure the heater is energized, put an amp clamp meter to see amp draw, then unplug the pump, the reading should go to zero, if it doesnt, trouble lurks, possibly a mis calibrated switch.

laugh all you want to, but even your own website backs this up, im done with it.

wtf? Spa Cap are you kidding me?????? Air for insulation???? No wonder they don't mention R-Factor. There is none!! All spa covers use air as help in insulating, except floaters. foam core covers dont sit in contact with the water do they??

Get it out of ECN mode, it will never be at the temp you want it to. You are correct, in ECN, it heats only when it filters, thing is, when the filter cycly ends, so does the heating, no matter if it has heated to the set temp or not.

I have worked on coast spa's for 8 years with the GECKO-S class pac's. what you have is the little red light of death, the ones I worked on the hi-limit sensor was a foam strip with some metal type tape that was hard wired to the board. you cant test or replace it the only thing to do is change it. I took the coast spa factory course and had the change to ask the GECKO rep herself when she gave that part of the course and her answer was to change the board We too encounter this often, the high limit "strip" can be bought seperately. De solder the old one and solder a new one. OK, I can do that. Worth a shot, eh? Any idea where I can buy the strip? and by the way, dont put too much into this Geko stuff, its problem prone next to junk