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countspacula

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Everything posted by countspacula

  1. i see this type of damage almost daily on the geko S and M packs. Honestly, an hour with a sodering gun fixes most, they usually look worse than they really are. The Geko pack is an absolute piece of garbage.
  2. ggogle : "hot tub blower" its a large egg shaped air pump, usually plumbed from the tub with 1.5" pvc fex pipe.
  3. could be a pain for ya. do this: cut the white pvc line, then cut it again to leave about a half inch gap between the jet body and the pipe, get a piece of clear tubing from lowes large enough to slip OVER the glue socket on the jet body and over the pipe you cut, put a screwing type clamp and pvc glue at both locations and there you go, turns a 2 hr pain into a 30 minute walk in the park. You can try cutting the pipe loose, heating the glue socket, then carefully "peel" out the part that is glued in and couple to the jet line and glue it back but this works only 30% of the time, usually jet body breakage occurs though with this approach. or you could cut both lines loose, unscrew the flange, and replace the entire jet body and re glue the lines.
  4. yes, thats the number of the board(s). If memory serves me correctly, your board is held in primarily by six screws side by side in a straight line right?
  5. quality is debateable in any and every case. D-1's are problematic, and have crap for electronics, especially topsides.
  6. locate where the light wires plug into the board, or look at the schematic on the cover of the pack, sounds like your light is 115AC, most spas have a jumper to switch from 115AC to 12DC, you may be able to go to DC, change the bulb(s) and be rid of the light problem. The turbo is the blower on most spas, locate the blower, take the screw out of the hose thats in it, and see if any water comes out of the blower when you turn it upside down, if you have water, theres your turbo problem, if not, it may just have died. On both cases you mention, a short is happening.
  7. it does pay to have access to opinions from ones that have been there and done that, good luck.
  8. make sure that the TEMP sensor (the larger ended of the two) goes into the shell fitting, and the HIGH LIMIT (smaller one usually with a shorter cord) goes into the heater. If it flashes OH even with new sensors, save yourself alot of heartache and trouble and just get another B2DG, or B2DG40 board. Contrary to popular belief, these sensors themselves RARELY "go" bad.
  9. the valve is valueable when service of the pump is needed, with it, you can leave the tub full of water, without it, you will have to drain the tub first
  10. check fuses first, found in the main control box and any sub control boxes.
  11. it has a flow detection device on it, it will be mentioned on the inside cover of your balboa pack, flow switch, pressure switch, m-7 sensor etc.... check this next.
  12. the clicking you hear is a fair indicator that the air switch is working. something else isnt though
  13. Be very careful! Geko spa packs are very picky about what type topside controller they will work with. You will need as many numbers off the actual circuit board as you can find in order to get a compatible controller, when you find the one, be ready to pay because geko is not cheap! But it is pure junk. You could retrofit with an ACC package or Balboa package for money well spent in the long run. Oh, sorry it's a D-1 too lol.
  14. turn the breaker off, pull the handles out, and put something on them to keep them open (slice valve keeper etc....). the two that are pushed in would definitely keep your tub from running right. These are isolation valves used to close off the water in the event you want to remove a pump etc..., turning them does nothing, they are an IN and OUT valve. In is closed off, out is run position. Put the keepers on because with age, they will suck shut and shut your tub down.
  15. not with long term success. cut it out and be done with it.
  16. What is the brand of electronics? does the heater tube have any "things" attached, or screwed into it that have wires going to the board? maybe a picture?
  17. Let it sit for a day or so and it will probably be ok. What you have is an air lock in the plumbing. If you dont want it to sit or wait, locate the pump and with the power off, loosen the connection at the pump enough to allow the air in the system to escape, then, seal back up and ;et her rip!
  18. i cut the lines from it, remove the old. then i silicone the male part and stick it through the hole and actually screw the body part on from underneath, then plumb back to it. I work alone is why i do it this way, if you have a helper, then turning either will get the same result. dont screw too tightly! and give your sealants plenty of drying time (24 hrs at the least, no matter what the bottle says!!)
  19. does the tub have a flow switch, pressure switch, or neither?
  20. Could be a fuse, a bad pump motor, bad capacitor. without more diagnosis, this is a vague description of your problem.
  21. fix a leak is for very minor leaks, that are otherwise untraceable or inaccessable. if you actually see leaks, fix those, then test to see. This product is a temporary fix at best.
  22. one inch in 2 weeks is not much at all of a leak. if its dripping at the valve, buy a new valve, male union, coupler, and a piece of pipe and cut it out and re make it.
  23. probably a bullet jet of some sort, at any rate, if no threads are seen from the cabinet side, then the jet screws in from the top side, usually with an allen wrench.
  24. google balboa mode changes, a combination of button pushes changes modes, try jet, light and see if it changes, other combinations exist
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