countspacula

mechanical shaft seal will most likely fix this, there are basically 3 sizes of these that cover most hot tubs

On the particular brand of pump motor mentioned, there is a switch just inside the back cover that does the change from low to high, it has contacts for each position. The switch is most likely bad, a visual look at it and you will probably see evidence of burn out on the high speed side. The switch is $20, a new pump is alot more........just a though, and easy enough to take a look.

So be it, I shall refrain.

original post: I am planning on buying a hot-tub for hydrotherapy purposes (will probably use 1-2x/day for 15-20 min). We are considering putting it in a sunroom attached to the house, but separated by a door, since we live in New England and I am intolerant of cold, even for brief exposures. An electrician told us that every house he ever worked in with an indoor hot-tub smelled like chlorine throughout the entire house, even when the hot tub was in a closed-off room. What is other people's exeprience with this? Would a salt system prevent the chlorine smell or diminish it significantly? Along the same lines, will an ozonator affect the air quality in the house? What precautions need to be made/designed into the sunroom as far as air quality? Thank you! ****************************************************************************************************** I commented on the "smell" mentioned ONLY. I didn't comment on air quality, or the affects of ozone etc..., or the affects of steam etc. on the structure of the home.

if you are using the correct amount of chlorine or anything else, it should not smell that way. maybe an air purifier closeby could help with any lingering smell, other concerns may exist.

Soldering things onto and off of a circuit board is pretty elementary, given you have the exact replacement part to solder back on, and a sound surface onto which to do it. The transformer nuts and bolts will do nothing for you if you tighten them. The transformer has tiny copper leads on both sides, that connect to the board, ease away the tape and investigate if you can spot an obvious compromise. I have even just heated the connections on the back of the board enough to melt the existing solder a little and it fixes alot of them, most of the time though, when you push on it and it does the on off thing, then a wire has become disconnected from the board.

first mistake: you bought a Lainge...................email me

I can help, email me. b_neese2@bellsouth.net

pull the filters, turn it on, pour in fix a leak, turn it off for 24 hrs. "stir" the tub w a brush etc during the down time. against the instructions but works well.

I can help. e-mail me b_neese2@bellsouth.net

power it up, with cover off and board exsposed. push on the large transformer middle right on the board, its the largest thing on the board, easy to locate. these boards are bad about the transformerlosing connection. I have soldered many many many of these transformers back on successfully.

after moving the dip switches, you have to power down then back up for the change to be recognized. the two m-7 sensors dont directly control the pump, they control whether the heater comes on, and stays on, or not. Check the voltage rating of your circ pump, and if one of the other pumps in the machine has the same rating, plug one of them into the circ receptacle on the board, this will verify if power is going out to the pump. If this runs ok, then the circ has a problem, they are tough to work on but it may be as simple as a capacitor change, or cleaning the stator and winding tunnel. SN codes are for the sensors on the heater tube.

it will be labeled on the board and will be mentioned on the schematic on the inside of the pack door. It is just a jumper, no tool required, in 1 position is 50, move the shunt and its 60, once you change it, power up everything, including heater and all pumps, check the amp draw and make sure your wire size is adequate for the load.

buy a board, trust me

if you filter continuously, econ will basically act just like standard mode, maintaining your temp setting. if you set one mode to 24 hr continuous filtration, then the other mode is not used and doesnt matter what you set it at.

get one that almost fits but is too small. Heat it with a blowdryer really good, you will be suprised how small a hose will fit on there when heated.

Hot Springs solana or jetsetter models

sounds like it is running in high and low at the same time, 66 amps is huge. there are two wires one for high and one for low, disconnect one of these from your plug, and see if it will run. if it does, then the high and low relays are closed at the same time, bad relay most likely.

no, filter cycle 1 is 24 hr mode, 2 is the settable mode

a capacitor problem would be obvious. the pump would just humm, start hard, run for only a short time, pop the breaker, etc... does the pump come on and move the water well? If it does and a new sensor set has been added, and still an OH, new board.

picture of the jets in question pls.

you will be suprised how good a repair the hose over approach is and it will far outlast other repairs

New contactor? is this an air operated pack? Pictures? If so, remember, the doors have a switch that has to be made before they will run.....or bypassed

I am not a spa salesman, nor do I sell them in any capacity. I, however, do service every make , brand, and model out there, daily by the way. Call any reputable spa repair and service company (not sales company....service only), I would bet that they have many old Geko packs and D-1 topsides that have fogged over, the older long ones, and the newer shorter ones, stacked on the graveyard shelves. My reply was in no way bashing you or your brand, just an opinion. By the way, the D-1's with the sequencer seat? quality? they use sprinkler valves.....

yes, theres a flange on the shell side that screws into the body, or the body sticks through and is held by a nut on the back. and yes, RTV silicone should be used. some of these jets come with a gasket, if you use the gasket, do not silicone the gasket at all, putsome on the back where the nut goes only, if you silicone the gasket, it will leak like hell. Those are standard waterway jets. fyi: I never use the gasket, i always use RTV silicone. and i always wait at least 24 hrs before glueing the pipes back because once seated, you dont want it moving around while your working and its is drying.