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  1. Update, I have replaced the flame sensor (~$125; R0267200), replaced the pressure switch ($65; R0013200), replaced the control board ($225; R0366800) and still no luck. Pool company sent technician out today and he didn't understand why the FL 0 code was coming up, when the "new" pressure switch is even jumped. Taking a guess that it could be 115/215 conversion plug, since this was not provided when I purchased the new control board and I had to take it from the old and stick on the new. Just a guess at this point. Ordered this new part and also ordered a new wiring harness. Should have a completely new electrical system, with the exception of the heater control assemble ($240, R0366200). What a very discouraging experience.
  2. I have been battling my Lite 2 heater for two years now. I purchased and installed this heater maybe 8-10 years ago. Heater worked fine, but the last couple of years I have been getting the FL 0 and the FL 2 code. The pilot igniter will come on, the gas valve opens, the burner lights, stays on for ~ 10 seconds and then goes out. One thing I have noticed is on the LED display, it illustrates the burner opening as a solid horizontal line that appears in a "heater cartoon". When operating properly, dancing vertical lines would appear above the horizontal line to let you know the heater was on. Those vertical lines no longer show up. LED display will usually say FL 0, has said FL 2 sometimes. The FL 0 code is associated with poor flow through the heater as measured by the pressure switch. I have checked the pressure switch and it seems to be functioning properly (normally closed and stays closed, even jumped the circuit). I really have checked all of the safety switches in the series (all supposed to stay closed) and not found any opening. Cleaned the DE filter and do not believe there is an obstruction or reduced water flow. The plumbing returns have good pressure. Local pool company said it must be a bad flame sensor and replaced the sensor but that didn't fix the problem, Thinking about replacing the pressure switch, but - based on continuity, that shouldn't be the problem. Maybe the board is bad but it seems ok. Before spending $300+ on a new board, would like to know this is the problem. Any ideas???
  3. Well, two years later - I finally cut the concrete and dug up the piping. What I found was the fitting going through the fiberglass sidewall above the concrete was cracked. The pressure testing company didn't catch the leak in the line pressure, because when they put the test plug "in" the pipe, they effectively went beyond the crack and the pipe tested fine. Replaced and no problems. I was really nervous of cutting the concrete and getting to a project that was more difficult than it appeared - they always seem to be. but this actually was not that hard.
  4. One way I have used as a cross check for evaporation is to position a 5 gallon bucket on the steps, fill it so that the height of the water in the bucket matches the height of the water in the pool, mark the water height on the bucket and then check it at a later time. The reason to put the bucket in the pool is so the water temperatures are basically the same. While the pool has a larger surface area and the water agitated by an operating pump, the evaporation rates should be close enough to obtain an opinion. Certainly, if the water in the bucket remains the same height (measured against the mark that you made), but your pool water drops - it would imply that evaporation isn't the issue.
  5. I hired a company to test the piping last time, but will try and test it within the next couple of days and get back with you. I found a pressure test device description at http://www.royalswimmingpools.com/pressure-test.jpg that I plan to purchase the parts and try.
  6. I have a 20 x 40 concrete pool (fiberglass upper 2.5 feet wall) with 1 skimmer and 3 returns built in 1988. I have a leak in the return lines, possibly in the fitting that penetrates the fiberglass wall. I believe all of the return piping uses a common pipe. If I put a plug in the fitting in question (other two open), no leak. If I try and use all three returns, leak. I hired a pool guy to replace the fitting in question. Charged me about $1,000 to cut the concrete deck, supposedly install a new fitting, pressure test and pour back concrete. I paid him and noticed that it appeared to leak worse after the repair. Tried to get him to come back, and basically he was non responsive. At this point, I am considering 1) cutting the concrete out (just like he did) and trying to replace the existing fitting and local piping (I am pretty good with PVC), or 2) replacing all of the piping. My concern is (before getting started), the fact that I am not familiar with this type of plumbing application. I am assuming that the return fitting is similar to a bulk head, but don't know. Also, considering the installation of a second skimmer. Any advice? Is this difficult? In advance, thanks
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