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Dr. Spa

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Everything posted by Dr. Spa

  1. So does this sound like ...bad heater element? NO ...bad hi limit switch? NO ...or maybe just clogged filter and I should get a new cartridge? Maybe. It does sound like a flow issue. Run it without the filter and see what happens.
  2. How to display pictures; http://www.whatsthebest-hottub.com/forum/index.php/topic,17532.0.html
  3. AC voltage has NO negative or positive. There's hot (or power) and neutral. If you spa is wired for 220 the heater operates off 2 hot legs (running at opposite phases).
  4. Warranty only applies to the original purchaser...and this being a SALVAGE purchase, no warranty either. It's also NOT a $10k spa. You may have seen this "made up, completely fictional MSRP" somewhere, but I highly doubt it ever sold for more than $5k...if that.
  5. If Coats doesn't offer a 50A model, they can build one for you.
  6. I know it well. The owner is a good friend of mine. Yes, they're one of the few out there that make a good quality cover...as does RHTUBS
  7. You can post the name of the company, as long as you're a consumer. You can not, post a link to their website. Well, you could, and probably no one would really care...unless it's your site
  8. How many miles per gallon does a car get? How much does a house cost? Can you see that there's a few variable involved? Just a few ;-) There are a few things you can do to reduce your heating costs (120v vs. 240v isn't it). Insulation, insulation, insulation. The better the spa is insulated the less it will cost to heat. DON'T forget the cover! There are varying thickness with varying insulating abilities. And, Protect your spa from wind. Most people don't realize it, but wind, even a slight breeze, can draw quite a bit of heat from the spa. Average cost? Based on 20 years on message boards... Most people pay between $30 - $200 a month....remember though, PG&E is some of THE most expensive electricity in the country. And if you try to figure it out, remember, you're probably already paying in the top tier (over 27 a kWh) and the spa will just add to it.
  9. It's NOT discharging through the center of the impeller, but the center of the pump housing. Center discharge; Side discharge;
  10. There may be another option; http://leisureconcepts.com/products/smartop/ I know nothing about them, other than they're hideously expensive.
  11. What's therapeutic to one is not necessarily therapeutic to another (therapeutic for ME, is simply great depth and hot water...NO jets). After 3 month reading this board I would think you'd know BEYOND ANY DOUBT that the ONLY way to tell what will work for YOU is to wet test. My observation though has been that engineers so over think things, they very probably could be better off going with my initial recommendation, or they may quite possibly never get anything (by the time you think you have it all figured out, everything has changed and you have to start all over :-). I had an engineer customer once that took TEN YEARS to do the research and decide. I think the only reason he bought from me was in the 10 years nothing on my product had changed...every one else's had. So he went ten years without...and I can almost guarantee he would have been more than happy with anything he had bought. The differences between quality manufacturers just aren't all that great. GO BUY A HOT TUB! You'll be happy with whatever you get.....just wet test it first.
  12. You need to test between the top AND bottom pin, and look for ~240 volts.
  13. How do you know what she's having a reaction to is the chlorine?
  14. "The pump is NOT on, one of the terminal outputs from the circuit board is putting out 120V and the other is not. Is there supposed to be any voltage on one of these terminals when the spa is in economy mode and pump is not running?" This may be normal (or not). You only have to break one leg of 220, going to a heater to "turn off" the heater. Some cheaper older spas did exactly this. It was less expensive to do it this way, than breaking both legs. It also may not be normal in your case, and could be a fault in the circuit board. HOWEVER, that would not be causing your GFCI to trip...it would simply be a secondary unrelated issue.
  15. I think the Water Pressure Switch is on the right with the thin brown and blue wire going to it. The "red button" is a high limit switch....which has a GREEN wire going to it???? (Totally illegal in the USA). 20160305_154003 by waynermills, on Flickr I'd slide the black covers off the relays and check that one is not welded shut.
  16. I'd start at the "Water Pressure Switch"...which shouldn't have continuity when the pump is OFF... though it could also be a stuck (closed) relay that powers the heater (the covers should simply pull off). 20160305_153949 by waynermills, on Flickr
  17. I'm curious. Did it ever occur to you to begin your post with; I have a (year), (brand), (model) hot tub with the following problem... And if not, WHY isn't it something you considered?
  18. Give your wife the credit card and let her go buy you a hot tub. Stay home, find a game to watch, have a beer.
  19. WOW, I'll respond inline in RED I'm sure there's more than others will add.
  20. Dry skin can be greatly exacerbated by soaking in hot water. Hot baths cool down quickly and you're no where near submerged. Chlorine TABLETS will. Granular or bleach will not. The instructions with Nature2 specifically tell you, you can't use bromine.
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