walleye

Since the water it was 3 months old I went ahead and drained and refilled it. Balancing the water right now.

CRAP! OK I have (had) heavy foam. I looked up the MSDS sheet and the splashless is 1-5% Sodium Hyroclolite (sp) and foamed up my hot tub. I checked Bromine after 6 Ounces of shock and it is only at 11. I added Defoamer and seemed to disappear as for now. I now have added 3 ounces of "Renew". Hope I did not screw everything up! Never buy the splashless stuff as my wife is now WELL aware of........ :-( Once again, only use PLAIN, UNSCENTED laundry bleach (or liquid pool chlorine, but you will need less of this since it is often a stronger strength). Don't use thickened, outdoor, scented, etc. they contain all sorts of other things and many are mixtures of bleach and detergents, as you have found out. House brand bleaches (such as the grocery store brands or the Walmart brand) are often a better choice than the brand name bleach since even their plain bleach contains an additive to prevent dirt from redepositing on clothes. The good news is that this particular additive is also used in pools and spas as a clarifier so it is not really 'detrimental', just not needed in your spa. If you can get the brand name "Professional" bleach from a janitorial supply that is great since it is the only bleach left in their line that is plain bleach and is an approved EPA sanitizer! Sounds like you will need to drain and refill. Waterbear, is it a done deal that I have to drain and refill? I added renew after my screw up and the bromine is just under 20 after shock. The foam is basically gone now (the next morning)after adding de-foamer last night. I turned on all pumps this AM and just a fration of what was has developed. I was hoping I may have worked it out but if this additive is going to cause me trouble I will since the water is at 3 months and due soon anyway. If I do drain and refill should I give it a good dose of regular bleach prior for a sort of super shock prior to draining? Thanks for the advice.

CRAP! OK I have (had) heavy foam. I looked up the MSDS sheet and the splashless is 1-5% Sodium Hyroclolite (sp) and foamed up my hot tub. I checked Bromine after 6 Ounces of shock and it is only at 11. I added Defoamer and seemed to disappear as for now. I now have added 3 ounces of "Renew". Hope I did not screw everything up! Never buy the splashless stuff as my wife is now WELL aware of........ :-(

I used "splashless" Clorox bleach for shocking my hot tub tonight. After using 6 ounces, I went to read the strength, and it did not show if it was 6% or what it was. After reading here I see it says (in the Bromine for beginners thread) not to use thickened bleach. Question is, did I hurt anything and did I get an effective shock? I can't believe I did this without first checking the strength. I always bout regular Clorox but my better half bought this.

Did you call the dealer? If not, Did you download the manual online? It should be available if you have no dealer support.

If it works and there is no visible damage, then it is fine. You can't hurt the performance, only mechanical and cosmetic damage can occur. And yes, you should fasten the clips, it only takes a second. I think you now know why you should.

Your not soaking your nasty's in a Kayak or ice house. A Hot tub is a more personal item and it is not going to hold it's value as much as a used car, boat, motorcycle or the like. At least not in my book. (and apparently others as well) I don't get in public hot tubs either. I know you can decontaminate them and I know that is OK, I just can't get my mind off of what "might have went on" in a strangers tub..... LOL

Thanks Chem Geek. I did add sodium bromide at the fill. The low level would not have been for more than over night at the longest. It is a new tub and on its first fill. Due to change in about a month. Right now I am at about 2.5 months.

I have a question. I have a Bromine system, and for the most part it has been very easy. On two occasions, I have let the bromine level get to basically zero. I have a Bromine Taylor K2106 kit. Once was a result of not watching the tablets close enough, and the other time after a "super Shock" using 6% bleach I had a 30 PPM for 24 hrs and used hydrogen peroxide to neutralize and actually got to zero. Both times I added bromine tabs and also used a few ounces of bleach to get the bromine back to 4-6 PPM, and maintained with bromine tabs afterwards. Question is this: Do I need to add Sodium Bromide again like when I filled the tub to create a "bromine Bank"? I have not done this, but have maintained 4-6 PPM afterwards by using Bromine tabs. Am I doing this right or am I creating a hazard? Thanks.

From what I have read, (here and other places) the real danger for this is after a strong shock. In your case just a few minutes with a pump or two running will suffice I am sure. From the water testing I have done after adding sanitizer, especially bleach, it reacts VERY fast. Just my .02, I would definitely listen to the pro's here, and you know who they are. (not me) LOL

You call it scaly yet you say it is soft? Scale is not normally soft as far as I know, and I would think if it is scale it is a different problem then if it is not. I think PH can effect scale, is it normal range? I am sure Chem Geek and Water Bar will chime in. I would shock at least. Good Luck.

No, you don't need to worry about it with bromine. CYA (cyanuric acid) is used to stabilize chlorine against loss from sunlight but it also causes the chlorine to become less active so more is needed to achieve the same santiizing effect as CYA rises. CYA is added to the water directly as CYA or as a side effect of using either dichlor or trichlor which are chemicals that are made from CYA and chlorine, often referred to as chlorinated isocyanurates or stabilized chlorine. Bleach is sodium hypochlorite, an unstabilized chlorine and does not add CYA since it does not contain any. The same is true for the other inorganic chlorine sources, calcium hypochlorite, lithium hypochlorite, and gas chlorination (normally used in commercial pool installations). Bromine is not reactive with CYA in the same way nor can bromine be stabilized against loss from UV light. However, the carrier chemical used in bromine tablets, dimethylhydantion, does have a similar but not as pronounced effect on bromine (causing it to become less active) which is a reason to drain and refill every 3-4 months with a bromine spa. This is also why it is easy to switch from chlorine to bromine (just add sodium bromine and bromine tabs) but to switch back to chlorine you must drain and refill. Also, in the future please refrain from hijacking another's thread. Please start your own when asking a new question. I am splitting this off into its own thread for that reason Thanks for the explanation Waterbear. Also sorry about the hijacked thread, did not think about it, although I should have.

I have a bromine system, but use bleach to shock on occasion. Do I need to worry about CYA? Not sure what it even is. All I check is Bromine, PH, Hardness and Alkalinity. DO I need to be watching anything else? Thanks.

What determines the amount of Ozone gas that is supplied? Speed of water flow power of the venturi effect? How is it regulated?

In case you don';t have this link, here it is. It is a absolute must for Hot Tub owners IMO. It will tell you exactly what to do concerning PH and all else. Merry Christmas to you as well. http://www.poolcalculator.com/

Beats draining for sure! LOL

32 ounces is a lot. If you are running all pumps it does not take long. Run it 15-10 minutes and retest. It does not take much time. I edited this post after reading Chem Geeks more closely. Let us know.

Thanks again Chem Geek. Have a great Holiday Season!

Thanks Chem Geek. I can tell you I have a brand new Sundance Altamar and the Ozonator keeps on keeping on while I am in the tub. It runs whenever the heater runs. Sounds like you suggest keeping it going. Let me put it to you this way...... If it were you in my case, would you keep using it? Thanks again.

I am not sure with Dichlor, but with Bromine Hydrogen Peroxide neutralizes it. Uses the same amount as Chlorine if used as a shock treatment. Example is for every ounce of Chlorine, a ounce of Hydrogen Peroxide equals it out. I have done this and it works almost immediately. Again, not sure about your system. Good luck.

Chem Geek, That's just it, I do not know. I have read here and there that Ozone can be bad for you. What I am trying to find out is if there is any health risk with my system. I have a Bromine system. I was just concerned if the Ozonator has any danger to the tub users. The bubbles do not bother me, it is the gas in the bubbles I was concerned about. Maybe there is no danger st all. That is what I am wondering. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks for your replies. I appreciate them.

So the air bubbles I see and feel are not the danger, just the off gasses? I can feel the air injection on my legs sometimes, and that is what was making me wonder.

I am considering unplugging my Ozonator on my Sundance Altamar. After reading about the ineffectiveness and the possible health hazards, I am wondering why to even keep it plugged in. I can see it putting out strongly while circulating, but is it effective and is it causing any health concerns? Tell me if I should unplug it or not. Thanks

No ACE but I found a dealer close by that quoted me $9200.00 delivered for a new 2011 HS Van Guard. I checked other dealers in a few different towns, he was by far the best price.

I have the Altamar by Sundance. I live in the Midwest, highs of 50's and lows of 20's lately. Not as cold as the Northern states, but still below freezing at night. Current temp at 10:30 AM is 32. I guess I was not aware that leaving the temps high cost the same. I was thinking much like a house, cheaper to maintain lower temps when you are away. I could be wrong and would love to hear from anyone who knows for sure. I would sure like to drop right in without the 30 minute wait. No regrets on the tub, that is for sure.