Jump to content

NavyChick

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

NavyChick's Achievements

Junior Member

Junior Member (2/5)

0

Reputation

  1. Your calcium is fine but you don't want it to go any higher, btw. I assume you redid the calcium test with the 10 ml sample and it changed to blue at 15 drops. With the 10 ml sample you would need 37-38 drops to see the color change and I suspect you didn't go that far and that is why it did not change color for you. I know I don't want the calcium to go any higher. I did the CH test before with a 25 ml sample and yes, kinda gave up beyond 25 drops. I redid the test using a 10 ml sample and it took 15 drops x 25 ml= 375. The color with the 25 ml sample just wasn't pink and it was kinda impossible to read. The 10 ml sample did the trick. Thanks for the advice!
  2. I just did another test after leaving the cover off over an hour. Bromine is 9 ppm, pH still around 7.8-8.0, TA 60 and CH is at 375 So now that I am under 9 ppm, does that mean that my pH and TA are valid? I tested bromine twice to make sure...using both the 10mL and 25mL sample sizes.
  3. Thank you Today my readings are: temp 103 pH 7.8-8.0 stable TA 60 stable Bromine 13.5 coming down CH somewhere between 150-250 I am having trouble reading CH from the taylor kit. The water barely turns pink and never turns blue. CH reading is from the strips I had. I am going to take a sample to my local spa store for a reading. I used the chlorine test to test for bromine. It took 12 drops at 10mL (12 x 1.125 = 13.5)
  4. RTFM It tells you what to do step by step and it is not rocket science. It's easier than baking a cake from scratch! If you follow the steps it's very easy. If you do things out of order it gets more complicated which is why I said to RTFM. I have read it and will print it. The reason why I am confused is because if you read back I was told by another respected board member to do the sanitizer first. I will stop asking questions now and just figure it out. After all, I could bake a cake with my eyes closed.
  5. Leave the TA alone right now. Get the calcium in line if it is below about 130 ppm. If it is higher don't worry about it. DO NOT TRY AND ADJUST OR TEST pH UNTIL THE BROMINE IS BELOW 10 PPM. Well, I am sorry I offended you. The previous response to me about my calcium increaser said that it may increase my pH/TA. That is why I asked. It may not be rocket science to YOU because you obviously know everything about hot tubs... Everyone has their own opinions and methods of doing things and I am getting so much differing advice that I am confused.
  6. Thanks for the replies. I did increase the CH more today. I am having trouble with the Taylor CH test. After adding all the drops it doesn't turn pink and then eventually blue. I KNOW the CH is present and is around 150-180 now so why do you think my test cannot detect it? Is that possible? So once my bromine level gets under 10 I will test pH and TA and adjust. It seems like the pH is around 7.7-7.8. Could the pH crash too low once the bromine levels decrease? Could I be in the opposite situation now needing to increase pH/TA? What should I do next time? I know I was told to get the bromide and shock into the water asap to fend off bacteria, but if the high bromine levels are messing with my pH what is the correct order to do this? Should calcium always be adjusted first, before pH/TA? Should I always wait to balance water until bromine is below 10? Sorry for all the questions. I seem to get conflicting answers on methods of doing this. I just want to do it right the first time and every time!
  7. Well, I thought I was on the right track.... I was told to do bromide, shock first...so I think you are right about it raising the pH when the tub sat cold all night. I didn't know I needed to do Calcium first. My current readings are: pH somewhere around 7.9-8.0 (1 drop acid demand brings it to around 7.7-7.8) TA 60 CH 60 temp 97 Bromine 18 What should I do? Should I go ahead and continue putting in my Calcium hardness increaser and let the bromine levels fall by keeping the cover off and then go from there. Should I increase my TA if the calcium increaser doesn't increase it?
  8. OK Here is where I am at..... Advice appreciated! -I used the spa flush -Drained water, cleaned and refilled -Fill water was pH 7.6, TA 350 and CH 0 based on my taylor kit results - I added Sodium Bromide, shocked with Leisure time RENEW - Added floater - I then let the water sit at temp of 62 degrees all night without heating since it got late Today - Turned spa on and its heating up -Water tested pH 8.0+ and TA 350 (I am assuming the pH jumped because of the bromine and shock?) - Followed the instructions on lowering TA Test, aerate, test, acid, aerate, test...... It took about 4+ hours and about 8+ tests of pH and TA to get to this result.... Current water: Temp 72 degrees pH about 7.8-8.0 (hard to tell with taylor kit...but one drop of acid demand test would bring it down to 7.6 So, I am assuming the pH is closer to 7.8, right?) TA 60 Now, is the TA ok this low??? I know all companies state a TA of 80-120 is best...should I increase it with baking soda? I do have Alk increaser but that increases pH too, right? Will be adding Calcium increaser in a few hours. I need a break How are my numbers looking? The instructions and ease of lowering TA along with pH was outstanding! I love the procedure and thought it looked confusing at first, but it was so easy and awesome! Thanks for any advice
  9. I read your post about TA and pH and it made my eyeballs go A little over my head! There is sooo much information and help here I really appreciate it. I will do the 3 step bromine method at my next fill. So can you please tell me if this "plan" will work for my situation. 1. Use spa flush product 2. Drain, clean and fill 3. Add Sodium Bromide 4. Shock (should this be chlorine or non-chlorine based?) 5. Add floater 6. Adjust TA 7. Adjust pH 8. Add calcium booster (my fill water has no calcium) Or should I adjust TA and pH, then sodium bromide, shock and oxidize? Does it really matter? I just want to make sure I get some sanitizer going in it. Today I used my Taylor kit and keep getting a pH of around 7.9-8.0 and TA of 100 I cannot seem to get my pH lower. The other day I added just a tiny bit of acid to move it down a little because my TA was 120, ph 7.9 and it dropped the pH down in the 6 range and TA around 40. I just cannot seem to get it right My family is visiting for the week and I have been keeping bromide up and everything in somewhat normal ranges to enjoy it while they are here. I plan to drain it next week and try to start over. Also, the water smells funny when I open the cover. Does bromine have a unique smell to it? Could it be my ozone system. The water is clear and sanitizer is fine...it seems that since switching to bromine it smells funny. Any ideas? Re read the step by step for 3 step bromine and follow it step by step. If you do you will adjust CH, TA, and pH BEFORE you add sodium bromide and heat the spa. The smell you are smelling is most likely either bromamines ('fishy'), bromine (chemical), or ozone (acrid). Since it dissipates after you open the cover I suspect it's ozone. Chlorine destroys ozone and vice versa. Ozone activates bromide into bromine sanitizer. Thank you. I will print and follow the directions step by step. If I can catch the TA and pH from the start, maybe the pH will not skyrocket again. Again, I appreciate all of your help
  10. I read your post about TA and pH and it made my eyeballs go A little over my head! There is sooo much information and help here I really appreciate it. I will do the 3 step bromine method at my next fill. So can you please tell me if this "plan" will work for my situation. 1. Use spa flush product 2. Drain, clean and fill 3. Add Sodium Bromide 4. Shock (should this be chlorine or non-chlorine based?) 5. Add floater 6. Adjust TA 7. Adjust pH 8. Add calcium booster (my fill water has no calcium) Or should I adjust TA and pH, then sodium bromide, shock and oxidize? Does it really matter? I just want to make sure I get some sanitizer going in it. Today I used my Taylor kit and keep getting a pH of around 7.9-8.0 and TA of 100 I cannot seem to get my pH lower. The other day I added just a tiny bit of acid to move it down a little because my TA was 120, ph 7.9 and it dropped the pH down in the 6 range and TA around 40. I just cannot seem to get it right My family is visiting for the week and I have been keeping bromide up and everything in somewhat normal ranges to enjoy it while they are here. I plan to drain it next week and try to start over. Also, the water smells funny when I open the cover. Does bromine have a unique smell to it? Could it be my ozone system. The water is clear and sanitizer is fine...it seems that since switching to bromine it smells funny. Any ideas?
  11. Thanks again for all the replies... What I don't understand is why my pH is so crazy from my fill water. When we filled the tub the fill water was about pH 7.4 and TA 250+ from the hose. If the water temp doesn't change the pH by much at all, is the high TA in combo with the high water temp making the pH jump to 8.0+ after it heats up? Also, when I dump and fill what is the best way to get the sanitizer going in the new water when using bromine? Do I just throw in the floater and turn the dial up? Do I put some tablets in the filter area? Thanks
  12. I have another question for anyone able to answer... Do I balance my water at the time of fill or after the water heats up?
  13. You can use the chlorine kit for testing bromine as well. The bromine level is just 2.25 times the chlorine reading. So when using a 10 ml sample size, each drop of titrating reagent represents 1.125 ppm bromine while if you were to use the 25 ml sample size then each drop represents 0.45 ppm bromine. Technically, you are measuring Total Bromine and do not need to use the R-0003 reagent (that's only for distinguishing Combined Chlorine, but you can't separate Combined Bromine since it gets measured during the first part of the test along with Free Bromine). OK so I just read the instructions for the taylor kit and I understand what you are saying...so for bromine 1 drop= .45 ppm for 25 mL 1 drop = 1.125 ppm for 10 mL Add 2 dippers of R-0870, swirl Add R-0871 and count drops from pink to clear Then multiply drops by either .45 or 1.125 So say it took 4 drops in a 25 mL sample then my Free Bromine is: 1.8 ppm Is this correct? I really don't know what I would do without everyone's help! This is such a great place to learn. Thanks again for the advice on the kit. Now that I read through the instructions I feel like those test strips are EVIL! Can't wait for sunlight so I can try it out. I am so happy that it will test the bromine too.
  14. OK so here is where I am at: I bought the Taylor 2006 test kit that I just got in the mail today...that was before I recently switched to bromine with a floater...so I think the kit I bought tests for chlorine. oops I also ordered the spa flush you suggested for before I dump it. Today the pool/spa store gave me these results: Sanitizer 1.6 pH 7.97 TA 73 Calcium 193 How are these numbers looking? They wanted me to add TA increaser and then do more pH down tomorrow. I feel like I am running around in circles... I would not get the chlorine to maintain in the water. I have always wanted to do bromine so I switched to bromine when my chlorine level was 0.5. I am using the tablets in the floater. It seems to be holding sanitizer levels much better. Like I said, I bought the taylor 2006 kit but figured it tested for both chlorine and bromine...but I don't think so. I will be reading the manual tonight. I have a question for next fill... The spa store where I bought the tub from told me that it might be best to have someone come in and fill the tub when I fill it again since my fill water is VERY high in TA... they said the levels should be pretty good if I did that. The guy was saying it's about $85 to get it filled and honestly, I have spent more than that on all these chemicals to get the water stabilized. Anyone have an opinion on that?
  15. Thanks for the reply. So you don't believe the water station testing at the spa store is very accurate? The company who I bought from and installed never tested the water, so I know that was the first mistake. I have been taking the water to our local store for their testing. They then tell me about how many ounces of acid to add...which always is never enough. As of today I have added a total of 16 liquid oz of acid AND 18 oz of dry acid. The pH is still up, but has come down some. The TA is starting to come within normal range. I am taking the water again tomorrow to have them test it again. It looks like I still need more acid but now that my strip is actually showing TA decrease and pH decrease I am going to stop for today and try again tomorrow since it's hard to figure out where it actually falls on the strip. I will research your suggestions for testing kits and spa flush. We have family coming in town very soon and now that I spent all this time trying to get the TA and pH down, spent a fortune on chemicals..etc, I kinda just want to let them enjoy the spa and keeping the chlorine level up for the week and then flush and dump after they leave. So did I understand you correctly stating that you think I can skip certain parts of the decontaminate procedure and just do a spa flush and refill? Also, when I refill should I go ahead and add my calcium booster right away even though I am still trying to balance pH and TA? Thanks again for all of your help
×
×
  • Create New...