DrGMatic

So, after working fine for a few weeks, or so, the tripping monster came back! Now, with the new 50amp in the house, the 30 amp in the sub-panel was tripping, whether the heater is connected or not. I replaced the 30 amp in the sub-panel and, it still trips within minutes of turning it on. The Circ pump runs The Heater and Lim LEDs on the mother board light up as do the red and green on the heater board. The heater element measures 15 ohms, 0 ohms to ground on both sides Before I changed the inside 50 amp breaker, plugging in the ozonator would trip the beaker immediately so I've kept that unplugged Both in/out sensors on the heater test 15 ohms at 59° The pressure switch closes when the circ pump runs What do I do next?

Thanks, RD. I replaced the main breaker and all appears well. Hot & Ready!

Heater has 0.0 between black and green and between white and green. Still 15 ohm between black and white. New breaker still holding as long as I don't connect the heater.

My otherwise great working Hot Spring Grandee now runs for 20 minutes and trips the breaker. It's usually the breaker in the house on my main panel, but a couple of times, the local breaker. As soon as I reset the breaker, it'll go for another 20 minutes and then shut down. All the jets work and the red power light glows steady, nothing from the Ready light. Here's what I've observed: The Circ pumps runs continuously however, the heater tubes never get even warm to the touch. Ran with the filter removed, same issue. Then, cleaned filters, same. Circ pump is running and blowing lots of bubbles "LIM OK" LED on Motherboard lit "HTR ON" LED on Motherboard lit "Control Unplugged" LED on Motherboard NOT lit The 2 LEDs on the heater board are lit Heater getting 220V 15 ohms across heater white & black Unplugged both sensors and read 20 ohms/ 40° water temp Pressure switch open when pump off/closed when pump is running I replaced the dual 50 amp gfic in the house and now the circ pump runs fine, with the heater disconnected. When I re-connect the heater, the 30 amp breaker in the spa-side box trips immediately, but nothing on the breaker in the house. Now what?

You betcha!

Thanks, sounds like it's a deep dive. I'm going in!

Thanks, RDsg. No way of repairing that collar, huh?

Hello! I picked up a 2008 Hot Spring Grandee, my third one, and it's leaking down into the equipment compartment. It appeared to be coming from the Smart Jet #1 control so I took it apart . When I took a good look at it, I found the the collar was cracked and was allowing water to leak. I'm attaching a photo in hopes that someone can tell me if I can just move it back into place and use and adhesive to repair the collar. If so, what would be the recommended glue/epoxy/hydraulic cement to use. If I can't repair it, what's the best way to go about replacing the required parts? Am I getting a new Diverter Valve Body, collar, o-ring and diverter nut? Then, as I haven't stuck my head up in there, is it a cut and re-glue plumbing or are there unions to dis- and re-assemble? Is it expected to have to pull the siding portion that contains to control panel in order to get to the diverter stuff? Looks like it's glued along the bottom and, I'm guessing, stapled under to tub itself. I'm appreciative for any shared info, insight and advice.

Thanks, Fellas! It's a GG. I checked at the breakers and it's wired correctly. I pulled the breakers and disconnect all the wiring. With the wiring disconnected on both ends, I still get continuity as described above between them. I'm guessing that between -17 to 130 on the 20K scale doesn't describe a bunch of conductivity but with nothing connected, I'm getting some amount of shorting between the wires, right? Is that enough to trip the GFI? (And what does the -17 tell me?)

Here's my update: I turn on the 30 amp breaker, circ pump runs and control display lights up. Turn on the 20 amp breaker and the 30 amp trips immediately. I unplugged all the components, Ozonator, heater, jet pumps, remote, hi temp, flow sensor, etc. one at a time until nothing is connected to the control board, and the 20 amp breaker trips as soon as I turn on the 30. Even with everything disconnected, the breaker trips. I even disconnected the relay board from the control board, same thing. Then, I disconnected, at the relay board, the wires from the service box, so the wires aren't connected to the tub at all. Exactly the same scenario with the breakers. Then, sort of long story short, I pull the breakers and put my meter to the wiring at the hot tub end. Disconnected at the tub and disconnected at the breaker box, using the 20K setting on my meter I get continuity measurements between the various wires of 60, 30, 130, and -17. In my "just enough knowledge to be dangerous" mode, I'm figuring I have problem in my wiring between my breaker box and my tub. It's buried in grey conduit but part of it is in a spot in the yard where, because of the amount of rain we've had, is under water. My plan, unless someone can identify a flaw in my reckoning, I'm going to dig it up and pull new wire. Thoughs?

Thanks Kreg, I'll do that. When the check valve broke it actually came apart, part of it in the tubing coming from the ozonator and part of it still attached to the tubing connected to the heater, but the tubes themselves were no longer connected. And, while it's not as many bubbles coming out of the floor drain, there are some, like 50-60% of normal.

I have a similar problem. Could I trouble you for the method of removing the drain in the footwell? Thanks, K

Thanks, PS. I'll check that out. You mention a housing on the circ pump. I haven't looked at it that closely, (but I will!), do I need to pull it out or is there a cover to remove while in place? And, do you reckon I could just see moisture or is it possible there's actually water in it. And then, phew, sorry for all the questions, if there is water and I dry it out has it caused lasting damage? Cheers, K

Thanks, Guys! New info: Still trips the breaker with the heater wires disconnected Full continuity between the disconnected black and white heater wires Zero continuity between the disconnected white and green or black and green heater wires It's the 30 amp breaker that's tripping but it doesn't trip if the 20 amp isn't turned on. I swapped out the 30 amp breaker and tit did the same thing . Everything seems to be working fine and then, Click!, a relay trips in the tub and the breaker trips.

I've seen lots of threads talking about Hot Springs heater issues but have not been able to find a solution so I'd really appreciate any help I can get. Here's what I've got going on: The tub has worked great for years, changed nothing in the past couple weeks. The breaker started tripping a couple days ago I'd reset the breaker and the tub seemed to work okay, not tripping the breaker in the first 2 minutes like it does now. But after it happened a few times, I opened it up and noticed the check valve for the ozonator was broken off but still inserted into the injector side of the tubing, leaving the output tube of the ozonator dangling. I replaced the check valve and continue to have the same breaker issue. Upon resetting the breaker, everything lights up on the control panel,the jets all work, the circulation pump appears to work as whirring away and it drives the little waterfall just fine but no bubbles from the bottom of the tub. The green and red led's on the control board both light. It sits liket his for a couple minutes and then, it sounds like a relay trips in the tub and the circuit breaker at the panel trips. With the heater disconnected, I get 120v between the white wire terminal and ground and between the black terminal and ground on the heater control board. I don't see any charring or evidence of burn on the heater control board. The tub was working great, didn't drain or fill, so I don't think I could have an air lock. Where do I go next? I'm handy enough with a VOM to check what I need to check, I just don't know what to check. Any help is much appreciated as I'm in little position to pay to get the tub working and the local Hot Springs dealer is absolutely impossible to work with. Thanks, in advance!