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texasradio

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  1. According to waterbear, a metal sequestrant is only used if your water has metals. He also says that scale control chemicals are only needed if you have a CH over 400ppm. I bought some "metal and scale control" manufactured by Brilliance and have not used it. Probably it was a waste of money as my city water does not have the problems that this product is designed to solve. However, I did get some entertainment value out of it: the label says that it will "moisturize spa water".
  2. What is "high circulation"? Are you saying that you have a main pump running for 12 hours continuous?
  3. Rebuild your deck to support a hot tub. Get the Jetsetter. Skip the ACE. Wire it for 220v. Get some "Brominating Concentrate (82.5% dichlor, 14.7% sodium bromide)", "pH Down", "Baking Soda", "Borax", from Walmart and be mindful that some of these are stocked as seasonal items only. Read the Bromine procedure on this site so that you will know what to do with the baking soda and borax. Do not use a floater, it is not approved by Hot Spring, but Brominating Concentrate is OK per their manual. Invest in the Taylor 2106 Bromine Test Kit to accurately measure your chemical levels. Change water every 3 months. All set!
  4. See, to me using the "used for sale" market as an indication, I don't see that as not many master Spa's out there......I see it as not many Master Spa owners who are selling their hot tubs because they are happy with them and are having no problems with them making them put them up for sale It's all interpretation I guess See, I was wondering if somebody would make this argument. Consider: there is a car called a Camry. Highly rated, every owner I've talked to loves them. And yet, there is a very active market for these cars used. Because, people trade up, trade down, get divorced and sell, go bankrupt, etc. It works the same way for spas. As for that list claiming Master to be #3 in sales, I'm calling utter and total nonsense on that. If that were even remotely true, these spas would be all over the used market. From what I have seen, the rare used Master spa is a tough sell due to the mistaken seller perception that they are worth more than what the market will pay.
  5. Not that I would even know where to look, but I would like to see how many Masters are sold as compared to other brands across the country for a year. You know, a list or something by manufacturer. I think that you would be wrong in your statement.........now, if you told me that less Master Spa "owners" post their problems of their spas here after reading the posts for fear of being told how they wasted their money on a spa and company who doesn't care about them after the sale.........I may have believed you....but probably not And for the record, I am a Master Auto Tech not a spa salesman....and I'm a pretty good judge of workmanship of products that have anything to do with mechanics. disclaimer: I am not a Rocket Scientist and Spa's "aint" no space shuttle No idea where one might get industry stats, but a fair WAG can be obtained by observing the used market, via Craigslist. Based on used market, I think Master is maybe 1 in 75 of all spas sold. Very rough guess based on my own observations, it could easily be 1 in 100 or higher. If somebody has some better data, post it.
  6. I have the twilight 8.2 and absolutely love it. Only at a month of ownership so can't give you too much info. Never tried the other brands so also can't compare too well. For comparison purposes...I spent $6250 (pre-tax) at one of those weekend shows. I might have gotten them down a little further on price...but don't think too much. Hope this helps Be careful warp1, these folks around this here forum will eat you alive telling you how bad a decision you made buying a Master Spa from there traveling show. My wife and I went to one of their show's. We purchased a Down East Portsmouth model spa (master) and simply love it. We have had it running and hot going on 5 years now and have had only one problem......the ozonator (sp?) had to be replaced after 2 years.....free of charge too, that included parts AND labor with no extra warranty plan. Relax and enjoy your Master Spa and don't let the Spa "dealers" on this forum scare you. Besides, look at all the "HELP I got a problem" posts on this forum and read the names of the spa's involved.........very very few Master Spa's....... As for the OP's question on price? Look, search and call dealers for price quotes and see what you come up with. I think this is because there are very, very few Master Spas that have been sold. Fewer spas extant = less problems noted.
  7. IMHO, TFP is not what it was when it started, it is now a commercial venue for the owner to sell his test kit. It did not start out like that and was origianlly owned by someone else. How do I know this. I was one of the original Mods on that site (and I believe that I am still the longest consecutive running mod on that board) and can remember when the current Admin was just a guy who owned a salt pool and was learning stuff and was not even part of the mod team. I am one of the ones that wrote a lot of the original material on that site, btw, including the test kit comparison which I biased in favor of Dave's kit to help him get his busness off the ground. Actually, I would recommend Pool Forum, which is what TFP grew out of! IF you want to go to the source of BBB then go to Pool Forum. Dang if this site wasn't down yesterday and part of today, at least in my area. Waterbear, TFP may have issues, but to their credit, they have a spa-specific forum. Pool Forum does not. In my opinion, spas are sufficiently different from pools to warrant separate discussion. I can just imagine the outrage that would be generated by a spa question inserted into a pool thread. ;-)
  8. Calibrate the circuit board? Lube the diverter valve? I believe I would have to see both of these procedures performed live before I accepted that they had actually been done. I'll skip the rest of the claimed services and, to the dealer's credit, agree that they are definitely going to incur some expense in showing up twice. Probably they expect to generate some parts sales on these visits. Just my opinion. For peace of mind regarding your expensive investment, there is nothing wrong with having someone come and actually check on the spa and spa equipment twice a year. That person may be able to take care of a few warranty issues as they come up so you won't be surprised by a cold spa sometime down the road. They will hopefully check your water chemistry and educate you on what you may be doing wrong if it is out of whack. So hopefully your peace of mind is what your dealership has in mind in offering this service. Enjoy your spa Respectfully disagree. Other than user error on chemical application and measurement, I haven't seen anything on a spa that would require a preventive maintenance contract. I have performed and designed numerous maintenance procedures for a wide range of machinery for quite a few years. The spa check list as described previously sounds to me like a good way to keep the local spa dealer in fast cars and young women.
  9. Calibrate the circuit board? Lube the diverter valve? I believe I would have to see both of these procedures performed live before I accepted that they had actually been done. I'll skip the rest of the claimed services and, to the dealer's credit, agree that they are definitely going to incur some expense in showing up twice. Probably they expect to generate some parts sales on these visits. Just my opinion. Edit: I missed the bit about your spa being under warranty. If the parts in question are covered by warranty, then you are wasting your money. Incidentally, the only "calibration" that I can imagine being made on a spa circuit board is for the temperature feedback. If the temperature is controlling normally, then it does not need calibration. Ever.
  10. I am disappointed that the administrator for this site has not indicated why it failed. Last night, I sent an email to the outfit that runs the servers for this site and was informed that I needed to "get a support ticket". Yeah, right. Anyways, the next time this site goes down be sure to check out trouble free pools...they have a spa section and a lot of the gurus from this site have cross posted the same information on TFP. FYI.
  11. Neg on the gravel. I put a shed on gravel, and it was not only difficult to level, but it has gone out of level over time. I imagine a hot tub would be even worse. Even though paving stones will also go out of level, at least you can get shims in there.
  12. Well, now the 80s tub I mentioned was shimmed up 4"-6" because the owner built a DIY patio and did not consider a level surface to be important. I also think that the tub did not have an enclosed underside (i.e. pan from the factory) but I am not entirely certain on that point. No doubt my electric bills are going to be higher with the simultaneous heater/pump operation, but I have not got the bill yet.
  13. Waterbear, I believe that the primary ingredient of all these mysterious products may well be snake oil. I wonder what this Spa God meant about "getting in on the ground floor" of Aqua Finesse? Is it a pyramid, or if you like, multi-level marketing scheme of some type? Sure sounds like it the way the guy was going on about it. Somebody get these people a Spa Frog already! ;-)
  14. Electrical efficiency as it pertains to spas is primarily a function of insulation. Don't know if HS is the most efficient, but they are definitely up there as full foam insulation is standard. I spent a lot of time soaking in an 1980s 110v HS tub and heat loss such as you describe was a chronic problem. However, this particular spa was sitting on substantial shims to make up for an unleveled pad and thereby had significant airflow to the underside...which would presumably have a negative impact on the overall insulation efficiency. While I have not cranked down the heat on my Jetsetter to test for heat loss, I am confident that it would quickly cool down under windy conditions with the cover off and jets/aeration activated. Wired for 220v, this is not an issue as the 6000w heater has proven quite capable of maintaining water temperature under adverse conditions. Also note that if you have any jets or jet supply lines leaking into the foam insulation, this would eliminate the tiny air pockets that the insulation is designed to provide.
  15. Don't forget that on this tub, your pump will still operate on 110 VAC even with a 220 VAC service (the pump will only use one leg, thus 110 VAC). The only benefit of 220 VAC is the continuous operation and increased wattage (from 1500w to 6000w) of the heater. If your 110 VAC line is currently daisy-chained with other electrical outlets, then I could see that possibly creating a problem. Maybe you have a bad connection somewhere. I did notice on my tub that the previous owner had scrapped the terminal block jumpers used by Hot Spring and used wire nuts instead. I did the same, as the terminal block jumper design did strike me as being potentially problematic. (Note that I am referring to the large terminal block, not the low voltage DC jumpers on the control board.)
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