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Posts posted by Captainkb

  1. What happens if you plug a 220 cord into a hot tub that is set-up on 110? Friend of mine plugged a cord into the tub and the tub was set-up in 110 mode and the cord was 220. Now the tub will not do anything, we unplugged the cord and set it up as 110, its getting 110 to heater control, and 110 going to main board. What happened to the board, is the transformer shot on the board?

    2001 Hot Springs Sovergn. Q2020 board.

  2. bring it on... cant wait to see the finished product!

    But you can't seal it... there is always air being introduced into your hot tub through the ozone system which will have to come out no matter how diligent you are with the construction!

    My guess is the air will escape where the hinge is at. I will need to add some snaps at the ends of the tub, because the ends don't have any weight on them so it is popped up a bit. No biggie I need to buy some anyway. :)

  3. Cover started, cut, glued plywood to foam, hinge. I have a tarp just covering the tub for now. I am going with just 2" of foam, I feel 4" is not needed where my climate is at. Next I need to paint plywood, and glue tarp on bottom, than glue finish tarp on top with a trimmed overhang. Buy some straps to snap cover in place. Done. Maybe $100 in materials, after buying paint, and straps. My Hotsprings tub is well insulated anyway, I just really need something to cap the top to hold in the steam/heat.


  4. My plans for DIY steps. You can make them from 2x12, or 2x10, depending on your height needed, or change the width to 36" :) I think I spent $16, without stain, The biggest cost was the 3" deck screws lol. I already had some 2x4 for braces on the back, and trim on the sides.

    wood 12' 2x6 & 6' 2x10

    Captain. :)


  5. Hello,

    I picked up a heater for my 2001 Sovereign it is the replacement for the older no fault 6000. The No-Fault PDR Titanium Heater has a crack on the end (see image), I believe this is to protect the heater from major damage from freezing? Are there any parts for this heater like the black end cap? If so, what is involved in the parts repair? If no parts are available I guess I am going to try and repair the crack with Devcon, Plastic Weld? Has anybody tried to repair this heater with Devcon or any other method?

    I get a 0 ohm reading on the black and white while disconnected on the old heater and a 110 volt reading at the heater control, so I assume my heater is out. I tried to mash down the little red reset button with no avail. When I push down the reset button it does tweak the lights in my garage, not sure what that is, maybe the heater is turning on? I do feel a slight vibration on top of the heater when I push down the reset button. Can I bypass this reset button in the heater? All lights are good on the controller. No heat in tub. Circulation pump is fine.

    Thanks for the help,



  6. captainkb, did you apply directly to the joint or did you wrap it with cloth? How about preping the area? Thanks, gypsy

    Yes I applied it directly to the joint with a white cut t-shirt 2" wide and about 10" long. I mixed the Devcon on the back of the package, than moved all the goop onto the cloth. It worked great! You just grab the ends of the cloth and wrap it around the pipe joint. You don't get any on your hands.

    I did clean the area and used a dremel to get all the foam off around the pipe and connection. I had to dig into the foam pretty deep to get the dremel behind the pipe to clean it.

    Two leaks patched and still holding!


  7. Here is my design for my DIY spa cover that I need to make. I am all over DIY stuff. Not sure what type of glue to use? Liquid Nail, PL400, Gorilla Glue, silicone, spray glue? Any advice on my design and or glue would be great. I haven't got to the straps yet. :) Just trying to make a top economically with as little sewing as possible. :) I was going with tarps (brown for finish layer), but not sure what else I could use? Tyvek for the 1st layer? Or just a thick poly? I have heard and read that the spa tops get water logged overtime? So wrapping the insulation with plastic/tarp that is waterproof seems logical. Not sure how to taper the insulation, I think this would be a nice feature to do, because of the run off of rain and debri. :) I do have a cover lift bar.

    1. Plywood on top, protect from a big lab dog that I have. lol (I can already see her claws digging into an expensive vinyl top.)

    2. 4" insulation good R-value

    3. Easy design with glue this or that.

    4. Very little sewing

    Fire away!



  8. I purchased the flex PVC, 3/8 hose, jets and fitting (T and right angle) from my local spa dealer. Spa was used, but the folks at the local dealer are awesome and bend over backwards to help. Any other PVC I needed I grabbed at Home Depot - Schedule 40 PVC.

    Its all good now, patched the 2nd leak with Devcon. Good stuff so far. It seems the factory glue joints don't last 10 years...lol

  9. Where can I buy these spa hoses? The hose that I might need to cut is prolly 1"dia, pink and slightly corrugated. I don't see anything at the local box store that resembles this. What type of pipes can a hot tub have? Any that the hardware stores have? Or do they need to be something special because of the heat and chemicals?



  10. Thanks for the replys.

    I will use Devcon tonight and try it. The connection is at a slight angle, meaning any liquid epoxys I try will just run off some what. Friend was suggesting I use a heat gun and just take apart the glue joint, clean it up than just glue it again.

  11. I got a 2001 Hotspring spa. I found the leak after digging the foam out. The leak is where the pink 1" supply hose connects to the 45° connector (back side) Leak is not a crack just where the hose goes into the connector. Very small hole, 1/8" maybe, drips, but when jets are turned on it comes out more from the pressure. Looks like to me the factory seal has just gone bad, or they just were skimpy on the adhesive?

    My question is can I just patch the small hole with some sort of 2-part epoxy? If so, which is the best, cost? Can I buy it at the Auto store, big box?

    Looks like they use some sort of black glue for OEM? Just don't want to tear into the foam remove wood, and yep it is almost right behind a wood support, cut back 1" hose, splice in new hose, dig out old hose from connector....on and on.

    Any advice would be great.

    Thanks, great forum!


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