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garyk

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  1. Thanks for your answer. On further thought I'm seeing it the same way. Any experience whether the acrylic textured deck coating process (which can go over aged concrete) is as cool underfoot as Kool Deck?
  2. Looking for input on Kool Deck restoration options. My pool here in Phoenix is 24 years old and has the standard Kool Deck surface. The deck is faded with some staining, a few hairline cracks, and one small area of delamination & spalling off the concrete, but otherwise seems mechanically sound. Goal is to get back to like-new appearance of the same type of deck - not an upgrade to pavers, stamped concrete, etc. Three options have emerged, I’d like input on the tradeoffs please. All three include grinding off the delaminated area to bare concrete, applying a matching patch, then filling/injecting the hairline concrete cracks. But contractors propose three different methods to restore the rest of the deck area where the Kool Deck is in good shape. One is a “paint”, the other two use the modern acrylic alternative to Kool Deck – they refer to it as a “coating”, but it’s a combination of acrylic and cement applied as a textured surface similar to Kool Deck. Said to have higher strength and good adhesion to cured concrete. Options: 1 – Pressure wash and apply a coating. Mortex (Kool Deck manufacturer), Ramuc, and EZ Pooldeck all have acrylic coatings (“paint”) for this application. Advantage is cost; disadvantages include making the deck somewhat hotter (and possibly slicker when wet), and likely less durable. This option can be tested in a small area. The coating part could be DIY, but I don’t have the skills to do the patch. 2 – Pressure wash and acid etch the Kool Deck, then apply a new acrylic textured surface over the top of the sound Kool Deck and to patch the ground-off damaged area. 3 – Grind off ALL the Kool Deck to bare concrete, and apply the new acrylic textured deck as though this were new construction. #3 has added cost to grind off the Kool Deck, but the contractor argues it doesn’t rely on continued good adhesion of the 24-year-old surface, the main risk of options 1 & 2. Seems like Options 2 & 3 would both provide longer life than #1. Any input from owners or contractors with experience with the three options? Especially whether the Kool Deck adhesion is a real risk, and performance of the Option 1 acrylic “paint”. Thanks!
  3. I know this post is a few months old. One added comment about the Paramount systems - cleaning performance is great, but fairly short life on the water valve module components. The module contains six individual valves, each has a rubber diaphragm that opens and closes the valve, the life of those diaphragms is about 2-3 years. Used to be the individual valves were available, about $15-20 as I recall (the diaphragms have never been available separately). Several other module parts were available too - gear set, bushings, etc. I'd replace individual valves as they went out, rather than replacing the whole module which used to be about $120. Just learned that the individual parts are no longer available, and the whole module is up to about $190. Our system is about 22 years old, we've owned it for 18 years, and this maintenance has been continuous from the get-go (replacing 1-2 valves/year on average). Also have not noticed any improvements in the valves and diaprhagms, they're lasting no longer now than they did back when we bought the first replacement. From the literature, looks like their systems use essentially the same module today. So expect to spend ~$50-100/year in parts to keep the Paramount systems running, probably more if you're not doing your own repairs.
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