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Milly101

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  1. I converted to the Dichlor/bleach Method and so far so good. After initial shock to 10 PPM, 24 hours later I was about 7.5PPM. My question is , what PPM should i be keeping it at? Dealer instructions state to keep between 3-5 PPM at all times. So do I just add enough chlorine to keep it at 3-5 or do I add to keep it at 7.5 which seems to be my baseline. Little confused.
  2. Thanx. Beachcomber rep told me their Clear and clean product was an MPS. Could be used with either clorine or bromine. Bromate is simply for bromine shock. So I completed decon and started the dichlor/ bleach method. So far all is going well. Thanx again for the awesome support.
  3. Thanx alot for the info. What about MPS ? Beachcomber told me their Bromate product on their site is an MPS but it looks like it is used with bromine.
  4. So I managed to get an MSDS for the Care Free and the Care Free Boost. I was hoping if you looked at it that you would be able to tell me what exactly is Care Free, is it an MPS ? is it a non clorine shock ? About to start my conversion to dichlor/bleach method and want to make sure I have the right chemicals. I am also looking for Borates but every where i call they seem to not know what I am talking about. Proteam Gentle Spa seems to be the most widely used, however can't find it in Canada. Specifically, Toronto Ontario. If any Canucks here can recommend a product would be great. MSDS: http://rapidshare.com/files/456527596/CARE_FREE.pdf http://rapidshare.com/files/456527582/CARE_FREE_BOOST.pdf And here is a link to Beachomber Products -> http://www.beachcomberhottubs.com/hot-tub-lineup/accessories/water-care-products/beachcomber-cares.asp Bromate seems to be a NON Clorine MPS. Just wondering if I can use that as part of my MPS step in the dichlor/bleach method.
  5. Thanx for all the tips guys. The water has cleared up some. Clear enough that I think it will be ok for new years. I figure it would be better to empty and refill after the party, as then it will be less people using it beyond that weekend. Today the FC was pretty low again so added some more dichlor ( care free Boost ) ALK was low so i brought that up to level. PH was fine after ALK increase. I purchased a spa water clarifier ( blue thick liquid ) I added 20ml of it and turned on air jets, All kinds of gunk/ yellow scum started appearing on the edge of the tub and on the foam. Cleaned it up, then left the tub circulating on low with no air. Checked 1 hour later with jets on high and air open and the foam was no longer getting that yukky scum build up. So i hope the filter picks up that gunk and help clear the water some. still not sure what the care free bottle is for. According to my dealers instructions I am to only use that once a week when i superchlorinate along with care free boost Then there is the Soft, which I am suppose to use once a week. My understanding is that simply just make the water feel nicer.. Thanx again guys for all the help.
  6. I took pictures of the bottle front and back. Hope this helps. http://img8.imagesha...g=img0262nn.jpg can't read it. Post the ingredients It doesn't have ingredients listings. If you click on the images and then click again to zoom in you can read perfectly, They are high resolution pics. But it does not have an ingredient list.
  7. I took pictures of the bottle front and back. Hope this helps. http://img8.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img0262nn.jpg
  8. I was afraid you would say that About 2 weeks ago, I was away and the tub went 5 days with FC at 0. Water was cloudy and yellow, I shocked, cleaned filters, brought ALK and PH to right levels and after a couple of days the water cleared up some. Then again for 4 days without checking and that is when i reached the above situation. Is the adding of so much dichlor the cause of CYA going high? I have read the Sticky about the use of bleach after balancing and on a new fill. Maybe that is the way to go. Yes, dichlor is the culprit! For every 1 ppm FC added by dichlor it also adds .9 ppm CYA! It's almost 1 to 1. IF you are adding 2 ppm dichlor daily (not unusual at all) then after a month's time you have added 60 ppm FC and 54 ppm CYA. Your tub would be overstabilized at this point! I see, seems like every month I am learning something new about water chemistry, I tell you I never though it was this complicated before I got a hot tub. Guess I will have to drain and fill. I hope since I have you here you could maybe answer another question. My dealers instructions when shocking my water involve adding Dichlor ( Care Free BoosT ) followed by ( Care Free )According to the beachcomber website it states the following about it: "Care Free Designed to work in conjunction with Care Free Boost, Care Free is the once-a-week solution that cleans, conditions and clarifies your hot tub water. It’s a special aid to your filtration system, helping the Microfilter to catch more contaminants and debris. Care Free also promotes a more stable water balance." So if one is Dichlor, what exactly is the other ?
  9. I was afraid you would say that About 2 weeks ago, I was away and the tub went 5 days with FC at 0. Water was cloudy and yellow, I shocked, cleaned filters, brought ALK and PH to right levels and after a couple of days the water cleared up some. Then again for 4 days without checking and that is when i reached the above situation. Is the adding of so much dichlor the cause of CYA going high? I have read the Sticky about the use of bleach after balancing and on a new fill. Maybe that is the way to go.
  10. Just having a hell of a time getting my water to clear up. 2 days ago I open my hot tub to see the water cloudy and yellowish color. I clean the filters, shock it. Come back the next day and FC is at 1. Add some more chlorine, next day still cloudy as and yellow and a not so good smell. Decide to use the taylor kit and test CYA, to find it really high. Instructions say to add drops until you no see the black circle, so I did and sure enough the water level does not even reach 100, so I assume it is something like 300 PPM. From my reading, it seems that if the CYA is too high then the chlorine is not as effective. So my question is, what should I do? Should I add more chlorine and keep it above 10PPM for a few days?? Can I lower the CYA somehow? Maybe I should just drain and refill, but water is just one month old .. Thanx, hope you guys can help me out. Have a party for new years, and would hate to have the water looking the way it does..
  11. Thanx guys, I might be driving across the boarder in January, so maybe I will just pick one up in the US then. Unless I find a US dealer willing to ship to Canada. Apollo prices are just too crazy in comparison to the US. Will keep you updated. Cheers
  12. Thanx for the tips guys, before I start messing with changing chemicals I decided I better get the readings correct first. So i have decided to purchase a K 2006 kit, actually that is the exact kit my dealer used when testing my water Can anyone recommend a place that sells it in Canada or a US site that will ship to Canada? Amatoind no longer ships to Canada.
  13. Can anyone recommend where in Canada I can order this? Or a US site that ships to Canada? Thanx
  14. o just drained and refilled hot tub. Followed the startup procedure from my dealer. Includes adding Elimate1. ( i assume that is like metal gone ) Then I add Care Free Boost ( A granular chlorine formula that works with in conjunction with ‘Care-Free’ to kill and control bacteria and algae in hot tub water.) Then I add Care Free (works in conjunction with above ) Then i add Soft ( A granular product that enhances bather comfort, reduces calcium buildup and protects against pH bounce) After all this is said and done I test PH and CL, Levels are good. Then comes the hard part. Problem 1: So i have these test strips to test for ALK, and they are never accurate, they are from aquacheck. I dip them, wait 15 seconds and compare to chart. I can never really tell where the ALK is, the color just really does not match any of the chart, if anything it looks to be high. So I decided to go out and buy the aquacheck trutest which actually gives a digital reading. Well that is not any better, I dip strip, flick excess water as per instructions, then read. In the matter of 5 minutes and 5 strips my ALK reading will go from 40-140. So i have no idea if which strip actually is accurate. Having to go to my dealer to get water tested weekly is not an option. Problem 2: Calcium hardness, I have no way to test this other then to bring my water to my dealer to test, which makes it a pain in the butt. So basically just wondering why am I having such a hard time with ALK. Is there a decent product out there that can give me some real accurate readings, some kinda Kit?? I just hate it if I have to go to my dealer all the time for water testing. Would much rather to test it at home my self and adjust accordingly.
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