harryc123

Last winter my spa breaker tripped and the water froze. I decided not to fix it until now. I had to change the majority of the plumbing due to cracking of course and now that it no longer leaks I decided to fire it up. Everything seemed to be running fine with regards to the pumps, however the light indicating heat would not turn on not would the tub heat at all. I tested the coil which indicates about 10 ohms. The problem seems to be that there is no power getting to the heater coil at all. All readings indicate 0 volts instead of 240. I looked for a high limit switch only to find a sensor on the heater pack itself. This switch looks just like a thermostat. I'm not sure what to do at this point or what to test next. I would appreciate any help! My tub is a very old thermospa. The spa pack is a balboa with a date of 1999 on it. I could not find a model number. The heater was changed in 2006. Thanks!

Here's the backstory. The pool was so green that I simply couldn't see the bottom well enough to remove the leaves. It had turned to a swamp from neglect so I had to do what I could. I have a DE filter and it's a serious pain when a pool is this dirty. You literally have to take three days off to just babysit it.

2 days ago I used flock to turn my swamp pool clear. It worked perfectly, however I had to take out tons of leaves from the bottom stirring up the mess and making the pool awful again. My question is: Will I need to flock again or will this stuff settle down to the bottom a second time? Flock ain't cheap!

Recently I replaced my 20 year old Hayward perflx filter with a newer model ec40ac. I kept my 1 hp pump as it was fine. This newer model runs quite differently from my old one and I was wondering if you guys could answe a few questions. My old filter started at 8psi precoated and would basically stop flowing water when it reached 20 psi. At that point I would bump. This new filter runs at 15psi right out of the box precoated. The water flow is much stronger than the old filter at 15psi when you compare it to the older models starting pressure of 8psi. However, once this filter reaches 20psi water flow practically stops. My old filter allowed me to get over 10psi before regeneration was needed. This new one only allows for 5psi. Even though the water flow is incredibly strong at it's starting pressure of 15psi, I can't help but think that this is too high when I compare it to the old filter. Is the pressure just the result of a newer design? My pool is 18x32 above ground.

Last weekend we went away and the pool turned into pea soup. Pool size is 16x32x52 above ground. I have a hayward DE filter, the one with the fingers, not the grid. I shocked the pool with liquid shock and killed the green. Pool turned into a nice milky color. Had the water tested and the pool guy gave me a lovely cocktail of ingredients to get the pool back to normal. I was told to run the filter till its clear. Heres my problem. Naturally the pressure gets very high in a very short time. I've been bumping frequently and changing the DE to compensate and finally I can see the bottom of the pool again. However its still very cloudy. Now I have to go to work and I was wondering if the filter would be ok running at 20psi for hours on end. That seems to be its maximum. I still get water easily flowing out so theres never a total blockage. I just don't know if its safe to run the filter at that pressure for 8 hours while I'm at work. Even if I regenerate it right before I leave its still going to climb within a very short amount of time. Any help would be appreciated!

Heres what I've done so far. I've removed all external appliances from the pack (heater core, pump, air pump) and the breaker still trips. I disconnected the main power wires from the pack and the breaker stayed on indicating that there is no short from the breaker to the pack itself. My feeling is that there is moisture behind the main board, where I can't see, or that the main board is fried, or lastly the breaker died. The problem is that replacing either item is a money sink. Especially if I'm wrong. I'm hoping that its just water on the board that I can't see, and when it dries all will be right again. Is there a way to test the breaker to see if that could be the problem? Any advice?

Hello. I have a thermospa that is installed in my deck. The spa pack is located underneath the deck. We had a terrible rainstorm the past few days and during this time the breaker tripped. This has happened before, and I thought I had taken care of the problem. (the spapac was getting a little wet) Now the breaker will not reset at all. The moment I flip the switch it immediately trips. I cannot seem to nail down the problem. The breaker is very old, probably 10-15 years. Could the breaker be bad from the tripping every once in a while? Could the rain have destroyed my main board? If it did destroy the board would this still cause the breaker to trip? Any help would be appreciated.

Hello everyone! First time poster here! I have a question regarding a used Teledyne Laars series 1 heater that I had the opportunity to buy at a very inexpensive price. It was purchased off of an elderly couple who had it installed in their house from the early 90's and didn't use it too much. I have bought it from them for $100.00 and have been researching its installation, which seems pretty straight foward. Its a natural gas unit that has a pilot light. I will be having a plumber come and hook up the gas, but my question is regarding the ignition. I do not have much experience with pool heaters and cannot tell if this unit uses a millivolt system, or if it requires external power. From what I can tell you, there are two red thin wires that protrude out of the case, but when I follow them back they are attached to two white wires. The white wires have a big red tag on them that say to "attach a firemans switch here if using a timer". From what I believe this is not an external power wire, and since I'm not using a timer I should reconnect the two white wires together. Am I correct in doing this?