CT-Mike

I am new to the pool scene, but have you thought about all that moisture causing mold/mildew issues in your garage?

So I have tried the search function, and read back through the last 4 pages or so of threads, and couldn't find much info. Basically we are installing a 30' round AGP and I am looking for info on what I need for the electrical feed. It's my understanding that the pool will have to be bonded. Is this done via a ground rod driven near the pool, or does it have to be tied back to panel ground? Do I need to install a convenience outlet near the pump/filter? I will be digging a 18" trench and putting the feed in conduit. Thanks for the help, Mike

I have a 2009 Caldera Cantabria, and last night I used the hose to add some makeup water to the tub. We are on a well so the water coming out of the hose is in the neighborhood of 53 degrees F or so. I went back out a little while later and noticed that the control panel display was showing 4 flashing dashes, "-". None of the controls would work. Reset the breakers at the GFCI panel and the display went through the startup routine, but shortly after it starting flashing again. I cycled the breakers again, then immediately turned on the air pump which seemed to have solved the problem. What is causing this, and is there anything I need to worry about, look at, etc? Thanks, Mike

Chemgeek, Any way to tell if the ozonator is working? The tub is new, and there is a stream of small bubbles coming out of the heater outlet port.

Thanks to both for the quick response. So it seems that what I am seeing is normal, and the tub does have an ozonator. Mike

Exactly what Dan said. I also have a Caldera spa, and you insert the small screwdriver at about a 45 degree angle pointed upward and pry gently. That will open up the opening below for you to insert the wires. Remove the screwdriver and it clamps the wire in place.

So two nights ago before bed I tested FC only and it was 0.2ppm. So I added 6 oz's of bleach to my 525g which should have brought FC up to approx. 6ppm. Got home from work last night and tested again first thing, FC was again down in the 0.2ppm range with no one using the tub in the previous 24 hours. I added 5 oz's bleach, FC was at 5ppm. Told the two kids they could go in, they were in for around 45 mins, then the wife and I went in later for about an hour. Tested FC after use, was <1ppm, so this time I added 8 oz's of bleach, left the cover off for 30 minutes for off-gassing, then went to bed. Tested this morning (Sunday) and again found FC at 0.8ppm, so this time I added 10 oz's of bleach. Circulated for 10 minutes and retested, FC was 10.5 ppm, and CC was <0.5ppm. Is this normal to have such a high chlorine demand? Thanks for any and all help. Mike

Looking for the math behind the CSI calculation on poolcalculator.com. I have started up an excel spreadsheet to keep track of my results, and would like to add a cell that calculates CSI based on sample results. This will keep me from having to keep going back and forth to poolcalculator.com website. Thanks, Mike

So after a couple of adjustments this morning here is where my water stands: - pH 7.6 - CA 130 - TA 80 - FC 3 - CYA 30 This works out to a CSI of -0.16. I am pretty happy with these results, but I am looking for some input from the chem experts.

Probably the easiest method is to add another circ pump and a water-to-water heat exchanger. That way the two fluids do not come into contact with each other and would cure your contamination issue.

Most likely it will not have a major affect on the sample results. I guess it is just the nerd side of me coming through. I was able to get my hands on a 25 ml pipette, and ordered a manual pipette pump off of eBay for filling it.

Got up this morning and tested the water first thing: pH: > 8.0 CH: 50 TA: 160 FAC: 1.0 CYA: 30 ppm 550 gals, 104 degrees F. This was after about 1.5 hours of use last night. So obviously I need to add bisulfate to get pH down, but should I add some calcium to raise CH as well? I also added borax to approx 50 ppm borates based on the poolcalculator.com results.

Polyvue, I was thinking more along the lines of using a volumetric pipette to deliver a more accurate volume of water to be tested, ie: 10, 25, and 44 ml. Thanks, Mike

Anyone use pipettes for accurate sample results? If so, where is a good source for finding them? Thanks, Mike

You need to get a titration type test kit such as the Taylor K-2006 for chlorine based systems. With this type of test you are using a set sample size, and add a titrant drop by drop until you reach an endpoint (distinct color change). These types of tests are much more accurate than dip strips.

So I have read the decon procedure posted by Nitro, but I have a couple of questions. 1 - When running the spa flush, do I need to run the spa up to temp or just let it circulate at whatever temp comes out of the hose? 2 - Same question when hyper-shocking up to 50 ppm fc, let it get up to temp or not? Thanks, Mike

The pump should have an internal thermal overload that is tripping due to being seized. Thermals are designed to trip before the breaker, and they automatically reset once the motor has cooled down. As mentioned above, try turning the pump/motor by hand, that will help you diagnose the trouble. Also, If there is a coupling between motor and pump, disconnect that and turn on the motor. That will tell you if it is motor or pump. Just don't run the motor too long disconnected. Maybe you will get lucky and find a rag or something got sucked into the impeller.

Trigger's reply seems a likely culprit, heater has tripped out and water is heating slowly due to pump heat (heat added by the work being done on the system by the pumps).

I am taking delivery on Saturday of a new (leftover) 2009 Cantabria without speakers or video and paid $9500. Hope this helps you. Mike

Awhile ago I came across a post listing everyday household chemical equivalents for those more expensive versions sold by the spa shops. I have been looking for that post this morning and I am not having any luck. Anyone? Thanks, Mike

I am waiting delivery on a Caldera Cantabria . This model includes the inline Spa Frog as well as an ozonator from the factory.

Well today I purchased a Sonos system and got it installed with some Niles speakers out on the deck for music while tubbing. The concrete is cured, the electrical is ready, and the tub is being delivered on the 24th. I can't wait. PS: If anyone is looking to add music to your house, I highly recommend Sonos. I little spendy, but very flexible and extremely easy to setup.

I know the feeling Tom. My concrete has been curing since Monday, electrical is done. I am calling today to set up delivery for Saturday 4/24. Unfortunately that is the earliest that my work schedule allows. Oh well. Since we are buying a 2009 leftover, I will be doing the decon procedure listed in the chem forum, so that will add another day or so before being able to use it. Can't wait.

DK117, Those seem like they would work great, but they don't seem to give the option of changing tracks/volume while outside in the tub. I guess I could put on a playlist prior to tubbing, but that just doesn't account for the wife changing her mind. Thanks, Mike

On another topic, I am also looking at adding music to the deck to enjoy while tubbing. Anyone own or have any experience with the Sonos system? I am looking at the ZonePlayer ZP120, the CR200 remote, and a set of outdoor speakers. Instead of the CR200 remote ($350), I may go with an iPod Touch (free app to control Sonos), and a waterproof Otterbox case that way I don't have to worry about dropping the remote in the hot tub. This system was recommended by the guy that owns the local audio/visual shop (not Best Buy!) and I am looking for input before dropping the money. Basically all of my music is on my home network, so I need something to stream it. I don't just want to add 'B' speakers to the amp because then inside/outside would be limited to the same music/volume. Any other options/systems that will do what I am looking for? Thanks again, Mike