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Everything posted by Dietitian

  1. The city does not include PH in their report. I have PH calibration fluid to calibrate the meter. Here is the meter: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-PH-200-Wa...2944&sr=8-1 I'll test against a std color test to see if the calibration fluid is off.
  2. It was after a new fill -- my tap water is currently 9.5, and I accidentally had the air jets on, it climbed overnight.... I have an electronic meter that I calibrate every week. They're 50-100 bucks on amazon.
  3. My tub got up to PH 10.7 and I ran out of dry acid last night, wondering if 10.7 is damaging for an overnight stay in my tub : )
  4. At some point the PH would be so high as to dissolve human flesh (lye will cause caustic burns) Can it become high enough to dissolve hot tub materials?
  5. Is a very high PH corrosive, or just likely to leave mineral deposits? Could PH get so high as to damage metal/tile parts?
  6. I don't have that... any household chemicals i can use?
  7. What can I use as a replacement for dry acid? Can I use sulfuric acid drain cleaner? Vinegar? It's a 30 min drive to get more chemicals, so this would be a one time fix; any suggestions?
  8. Is there any problem with TA 40 per se? If the TA is 40 and the CSI is near zero, is that still a problem?
  9. Mercola picks and chooses, exaggerates, and lies. Fact check his Splenda articles for case in point.
  10. Yikes! No wonder you taste the chlorine. Our water used to have < 1 ppm FC by the time it got to our house and now with monochloramine it's 1.2 ppm, but still hard to taste the chlorine or monochloramine itself. In our situation, the "bad" taste is mostly from other things in the water. The combination of 3 ppm FC with 2 ppm CC is a bit of a concern. It would seem that the CC is persistent since if it started out as ammonia it should have been oxidized by the time it got to your house. So it may be some sort of organic that is slower to oxidize. I don't know if hydrogen peroxide will be a strong enough reducing agent to dechlorinate the CC. It will certainly be able to remove the FC. You could certainly try it to see how it works by measuring the FC and CC after treatment. Add enough treating the CC as if it were FC in terms of calculating the amount of hydrogen peroxide needed. So to get rid of 5 ppm FC+CC in one gallon, it would take about one drop of 3% hydrogen peroxide, assuming around 20 drops per ml. Note that the Taylor dropper bottles are around 26 drops/ml. According to this page, one drop of water is 0.025 ml, which would be 40 drops per ml. Does that seem correct? I assume that water drops change with the TDS and chemical levels, surfactants in the water, etc....
  11. The professionals are pretty good at providing water that is safe to drink, but it tastes like chlorine. I would like to safely and quickly remove the chlorine from my water to improve taste. Currently my water arrives with about 3ppm FC and 2ppm combined chlorine, PH 9, and 600 ppm TDS. The water routinely falls out of spec as well. This summer the water contained unsafe ammonia levels for three months. We were notified this winter of the error. The main problem is the chlorine smell. It can be removed with a Brita filter, but if a drop of H202 can safely remove the chlorine, that seems easier and faster.
  12. If I want to lower my chlorine level quickly, how much hydrogen peroxide should I use per free chlorine ppm? Would it be possible to add H202 to a gallon of tap water (for drinking) to reduce the chlorine and improve the taste? Would the chlorine be reduced to chloramines? Would the peroxide attack the chloramines as well?
  13. Does this still indicate that teeth are more damaged by carbonated beverages, even though teeth are not made of calcium carbonate? Does carbonation affect the water's ability to dissolve the tooth's hydroxyapatite (crystalline calcium phosphate) material ?
  14. Excellent. Does anyone have any experience with this? It seems unlikely that silver alone could keep bacteria in check.
  15. A low CSI means waster is "calcium hungry" and would be able to pull calcium from the enamel (hydroxyapatite). Is this correct?
  16. The gut depends on bacteria to digest food, and should not be disinfected. The teeth and gums actively fight bacteria using enzymes. They are different systems with different goals.
  17. The realization that dental plaque is a biofilm was a eureka moment for me, yes. The degradation caused by improper PH and bacterial growth in your mouth is exactly the same problem we combat in our spas.
  18. I spoke with a dentist during a round of golf a couple days ago, and he agreed that the two were similar and that disinfecting the mouth is a good idea -- significantly reducing oral microbes is the goal. Our saliva already contains natural enzymes that work in multiple ways to destroy bacteria, but when the saliva is overwhelmed biofilms begin to form and calcify. Tarter is a calcified biofilm that is removed with dental instruments.
  19. I think that a sterile mouth is better than a half sterile mouth. A pond or river or lake may have "good" bacteria that keep the water balanced, but none of us tries to keep a spa balanced with rocks, animals, rotting wood, algae, etc. It's possible, but safer to kill 99% of bacteria. I think our teeth are the same. Ponds grow biofilm even when "balanced." Our cave man ancestors didn't live long enough for biofilms to matter (avg lifespan ~30 years) but we certainly do.
  20. What is the actual chemical in the dry chlorine? calcium hypochlorite
  21. Ok...now you are really freaking me out....you have to tell me the deal with dental care living vicariously through spa care in your household. What gives??? Not trying to be mean or anything, but your questions are anything but typical...to say the least. I'm fascinated by the similarities between keeping a clean and safe spa and keeping the mouth/teeth healthy. Tooth and spa decay are caused by bacteria and improper PH. To prevent both, oxidizers can be used, along with physical cleaning. Plaque on teeth is a biofilm, the same as one finds in a poorly maintained spa. If we could keep our mouths bacteria-free, we could avoid having plaque(biofilm) build up on our teeth. Additionally, consuming acidic water or beverages is similar to having water with a PH around 3.5 in our spas -- beer, soda, wine, juice is all around PH 3-4, and many purified waters are below 6 PH. Not good for the teeth, not good for the spa either. I think that people think of them as completely dissimilar ideas, but many people don't realize that failing to clean/disinfect the mouth every day is similar to leaving a hot tub dirty and without sanitizer for 48 hours; it's a pretty bad idea. Most think that brushing alone will be fine, but that is like imagining that you can keep a spa in good health by simply washing it with soap every day. Some sort of oxidizer is needed. Without it, we get plaque buildup that has to be physically removed by a dentist every six months, and causes damage to teeth during that time as bacteria produce acidic waste under the biofilm. I'm not sure why oral oxidizer use is not more widely promoted by the ADA; as it stands now, the recommendations are similar to your spa guy telling you to clean the tub with a brush and soap, and call him every six months to come out and scrape the crusty bacterial growth off of the entire thing, replace the damaged or destroyed parts, clean the spa really well, refill and tell you to do it all over again.
  22. My spa is rated to hold five people but is only 280 gallons, and with five people it holds less than that... so I'm fairly concerned with keeping the chlorine level at a safe level....
  23. I recently purchased a mouthwash that contains four ingredients: 1. Water 2. TSP (trisodium phosphate) 3. Stabilized chlorine dioxide 4. Citric acid What does "stabilized" chlorine dioxide mean? Do they combine it with CYA?
  24. I am very happy with mine, as it has helped keep combined chlorine to near zero after its installation. There is a strong one available on Amazon for $60 and it should take about an hour to install it -- ask the pool guy what his hourly rate is and if he'd be willing to install one that you purchased online. I have found that using the dry chlorine and dry acid powder from Walmart is easier and less messy than using household bleach; it is more expensive but not by much. You can also purchase the large bottles of dry powders that are designed for swimming pools -- they are the same chemicals at much lower cost. I'd also recommend having a defoamer and an enzyme solution on hand just in case someone gets some soap residue in the water, along with "Spa Flush" for when you are ready to drain and refill the spa. You'll also want to order an alternate filter so that you can swap in a new one and clean the old one overnight periodically, and TSP (trisodium phosphate) for cleaning the filter. In summary I would recommend purchasing the following items now: Chlorine (most use dichlor then bleach, I use powdered CYA and chlorine) Dry acid Baking soda Boric acid Defoamer Enzyme solution Spa Flush Filter Trisodium phosphate I got my TSP here: http://cgi.ebay.com/1lb-Trisodium-Phosphat...=item414b3cf6d1 Boric acid here: http://cgi.ebay.com/1-lb-Tech-Grade-Granul...=item35a65a91fb Ozonator: http://www.amazon.com/Spa-109-Hot-Ozonator...9340&sr=8-5 Spa Flush: http://cgi.ebay.com/Spa-System-Flush-2-PAC...=item4ce81d4d17 Enzyme solution: http://cgi.ebay.com/Leisure-Time-Spa-Hot-T...=item27af21f930
  25. As I understand it, Nature2 puts silver into the spa water. I have two questions: 1. Can I purchase silver in liquid or powder form and add it in exact amounts? 2. What other metals are in the Nature2 device besides silver?
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