dynamictiger

Based on my experience and best practices I have seen in the four or so countries I have been in I would definitely raise the pool to 20 ppm and close if until the chlorine falls to reasonable levels. HTH

For a spa the use of Salt is counterintuitive. A spa should be emptied once a month depending on usage as the water can build up toxins the chemicals cannot destroy. For commercial spas they should be emptied weekly. This being the case there is little to no advantage at all in using a salt system on any spa at all.

The higher hardness level for the water you are considering strongly suggest either diluting the pool with lower hardness water or purchasing a self cleaning chlorinator as the hardness will clog your cell regularly. In the old days salt chlorinators were not warranted with copper algaecides. Whilst this position has changed more recently I would be reluctant to use one and a copper electrode system of any sort. HTH

Adjust the TA like any other pool and the pH should look after itself. HTH

Please add 1.5 gallons of sodium hypochlorite 13% to your pool and leave the filter running and see what it looks like in 24 hours. HTH

Please post a picture or two of the install. Please include a picture looking down on the top of the Multi Port Valve.

Corrosion will be your biggest issue. Seawater corrodes stainless steel commonly used in pond pumps and all above ground pumps as the motor shaft. You can also get salt depositing badly wherever water is splashing this is particularly relevant to waterfalls and fountains. Depending on your source you can also run into macroalgae in other words growths and organic deposits read smells. Yes it can be done. As long as the design incorporates these issues and others I can't remember off the top of my head. HTH

You shouldn't have a problem with 8 m away, provided it is not up. Up about 1 metre is fine, any higher and the pump will start to alter it's pumping curve and performance will change. Keep the pipe size up either at the same size it is now or preferably one size larger to reduce resistance. HTH

A heavy chlorine shock of about 20 ppm should fix the green water up. Prevention steps would include, increasing teh chlorine level to minimum 5 mg/l for the period. Running the filter non stop with all the water possible going through the skimmer. Again if possible angling the jets so they push the surface water toward the skimmer will also help. HTH

It could mean that the supply is 240 and in that case the hum is just short of the smoke that makes it work coming out. However it could also indicate other supply related problems. I would switch the motor to 240v and flick the switch on off and see if the motor runs at all. HTH

This topic has wandered off as they invariably do. Sand filters are usually okay for most applications - if they are correctly sized to the flow rate. Unfortunately manufacturers have been having some sort of competition to increase the flow rate through the sand which means even manufacturers flow rates can no longer be relied upon . Correctly sized and installed a sand filter should produce filtrate with a rating between 20 and 40 microns. It is possible by slowing the flow rate down to get 10 microns out of sand. Enough has been said about cartridge filters, I do not need to make comments on this. D.E. filters claim a filter rate of nominal 1 micron. Again this is dependant on flow rate the typical flow rate through a DE filter being around 1 - 2 usgpm/sqft. This information can be used to ascertain whether you need to change your pump or not.

No need took me over 20 years to get here. We all have to start somewhere. And I did get another one yesterday

Here is my last years works list in a nutshell: Australia - Built Aqualife Aquatic Centre Plant - Construction time 24 months Bali - Begawan Giri - Flown in to isolate and solve jetting problems on in pool madssaging seats - 5 days, 3 weeks research Bhutan - Flown in to find leak in spa - 5 days Australia - Solve waterfall problem for submersible pump company at reception centre - 15 days Australia - Design and supply commercial filters for Craigie Leisure Centre - 180 days There were a few other jobs as well, but memory is fickle. I do a lot of domestic problems as well but they are too many to list as I only get involved for a specific issue and get out again (I'm bloody expensive). 2007 so far: All Australia this year to date Design and construct completely automatic system for residential pool Retrofit pool builders abandoned site and track all pipe works Mirvac Fini - Lot 23 Burswood Peninsula Mirvac Fini - Tower 3 Burswood Jerramgurup - Pool liner repalcement Gnowarangurup (Is that how you spell that) Solar installation Frankly if I get another job right now I might explode

Not being able to see your pool ripping it out does sound a little radical. I would think that if it is ground subsidence and that there is no more it would be cheaper to build up the lower edge and relevel the pool floor, and fit a liner. Perhaps you should get two or three more on site opinions. HTH

Roger it is quite possible to calculate the required flow rate and pump head for a given number of known jets. How do you think the spa is designed to begin with? The jet manufacturers provide this information if you look for it in their technical data sheets for each jet. Armed with this information you simply count up the jets and multiply the flow only the pressure is a constant based on the jet pressure. From this information you then add your pipe looses and head of water and can mathematically model the jet and flow requirements. Added all together you derive a duty point for the pump then size the pump to suit (normally slightly oversize). About this time last year I had a pool in Bali with issues of non performance. There were a myriad of problems including under sized and badly installed pipeworks. By applying the above I was able to correctly select and size the required pumps to make everything work correctly. However, I was being paid for this solution and for this question it is not worth the time and effort to calculate, besides not having sufficent information. Please remember a pool is just an application of maths and the maths is the key to a successful pool (or spa) or a disaster.

Calculating flow rates for jets is possible however not worthwhile. The retailer is under an obligation legally and morally to deliver you a product which meets your reasonable expectations. Usually a company in Australia anyway has it worked out. HTH

In Australia consumers did not like two speed pumps so they have gone from the market. If you find one you will be looking at an older model. They went out about 8 years ago. Some spas are using small magnet drive pumps as circulators this is probably a better idea anyway. HTH

This is what causes the client perception of bad service. Although there is the counter argument the fact is the end user blames the entire industry for the bad service and staff changes, product changes and the like lead to a loss of knowledge sometimes quickly on what you used to stock. This can lead to bad service even from the original sales agent. This is an industry problem not a dealer problem.

After sale care and service is too often poor This is more common than you think. One of the problems for the after sales market is that owners may choose to call anywhere for service. The same is true for pools as well. The consumer believes (my pet hate) that there are maybe two or three brands of pool lights, when in fact there are thousands. Recently we had two pools with a light problem. Both pools use a light that is uncommon and had no manufacturers detail other than logos to track by. It took over a month to track down each. It is time the industry woke up to itself. Not all owners are going to go back to the original place of sale for service for a variety of reasons. What would it cost to give the owner a sheet of paper telling them the items installed on their unit? Couldn't we simply add this similar to an electrical diagram into the cabinet work somewhere?

I think this is a hangover from way back when as in the late 70's when I was introduced to spas we were all told to use bromine tablets and to hold the TA in the 120 + range as the Bromine tablets were acidic.

There is a system which can be used as an alternative to the three previously mentioned. You can use either an ozonator or Ultraviolet light with this. It is very much more expensive to maintain. The chemical is Hydrogen Peroxide. This is not normally used as it is a bit on the slower side and very expensive compared to chlorine based products. From memory you need about 40 ppm to acheive adequate sanitation and you need an additional sanitiser like UV or Ozone as well. Test kits are usually available from scientific supply services and the chemical is usually available via the chemical companies that supply your pool shop - we use 50% solution. HTH

Fiberglass likes acid. Next time you empty it, try cleaning it with a 10 to 1 Muriatic acid solution and see if the scale weakens or lifts. HTH

This post reads like bore water is being used to fill the pool. Have you checked the results of your test kit against a sample taken to the pool store? Perhaps your test kit is giving you errors in it's readings. If the results you are desribing are defintely correct, then try the following. 1: Turn your eyeballs upwards so the surface of the pool is distrubed as much as possible 2: Run the pool plant 24 hours a day for 5 days without any cover on the pool 3: Repeat the testing and post the results There is another step we can take to get this right, however the above normally works. HTH

The rolachem squeeze hose is a proprietary product. Whilst I can think of a dozen companies whose tubes may fit the tubes are more expensive. The rolachem tubes are actually very cheap for a chemical dosing pump part. By the way rolachem have now been bought by Hurlcon, depending on when you last purchased the product the pricing may have changed. HTH

The waste position on your valve drains the water. HTH