pkillur
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Posts posted by pkillur
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Hi all - I have a windriver spa that uses a SpaBuilders LX-15 2 pump + ozonator spa pack. I recently replaced the motherboard and the heater (the board went bad and the element wasn't heating after I replaced the board). Not sure where to check but I'm wondering if something is either faulty with the heat sensor or if I just have a crap board. It wouldn't heat on my last element - but I figured it was a few years old so let's replace it. So I did and it started heating. I noticed that it felt a little cold as I was doing chems yesterday and found it to be burnt up about 2 inches on the red wire.
My questions:
1: Anyone have any ideas why it would have done that?
2: Could it have been grounded or something?
3: Is it safe to use the current heating element or should I replace it? It's literally a week old.
4: I think my flow sensor is good - but I'm not sure how to test my heat sensor.
5: Could my eprom have anything to do with this? I'm battling an issue with my topside controls not working also - trying to figure out if the issue is a topside, prom, or main board issue. For reference the eprom version is 6.77 WR Alpha.
Thanks,
-PKillur
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I just replaced my circuit board which has been on the fritz for some time. I am dealing with a few issues and wondered if anyone had any ideas.
The first one is that when I plug the topside controls into the new board - it is just flat out dead. It was dead on the last board - but this isn't necessarily a good gauge I don't think.
The second thing is that my circuit is popping at the heater. But, I am 90% certain it's the heater and am in the process of getting a replacement element.
So my real question is - is there a way a novice-not-hot-tub-guy can test the topside controls? Like can I plug it into something else and see if it pops up with LCD controls or something?
Thanks,
-pkil
Followup information:
Circuit board is a Spa-builders LX15, and the eprom is a 6.77.
Topside controls are LX15 6B2P it says W/R Alpha.
Could it be an EPROM mismatch? My eprom just says 6.77 but the one on the old board said Windriver alpha 6.77 ??
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I just replaced my circuit board which has been on the fritz for some time. I am dealing with a few issues and wondered if anyone had any ideas.
The first one is that when I plug the topside controls into the new board - it is just flat out dead. It was dead on the last board - but this isn't necessarily a good gauge I don't think.
The second thing is that my circuit is popping at the heater. But, I am 90% certain it's the heater and am in the process of getting a replacement element.
So my real question is - is there a way a novice-not-hot-tub-guy can test the topside controls? Like can I plug it into something else and see if it pops up with LCD controls or something?
Thanks,
-pkil
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When the cpu is acting a little schitzo- it usually needs replacement. However, it may have just gotten wet, and it may dry out.
So if I get a comparable kit it should work I'm guessing? Are there any reasons to leave balboa and go to another brand that might be better / less expensive??
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I have a Windriver spa that uses a Balboa Spa Pack. The exact model escapes me but it's around 2001(ish). We've had a ton of rain lately and I'm assuming a short of some sort (I live in Denver, and it almost never rains). The circ pump is no longer running, and when I push the button for pump 1 and pump 2 it turns on the light like it's running but doesn't do anything. As the circ pump isn't working, it's obviously not heating (Thank God it's not negative 10 outside!!!)
Can any of you think of something simple that could be wrong with the spa pack that is easily remedied or is it probably fried?
Thanks in advance
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Thanks for the info. For whatever reason I think the spa pack was wigged out. I tried bouncing the power and turning it off and on. I decided since it's warm here in CO today to do a partial water change and killed the power since it would drop below the input for the circ pump. Sure enough it is working like a champ now. Not sure what happened... ??
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Greetings fellow tubbers. My tub is a WindRiver Spa with balboa controls.
When refilling my tub yesterday, I noticed the topside controls are alternating the following pattern: Jet light, 1's number, 10's number, 100's number with dashes (I.E. instead of the normal 101 it should be showing it shows Jets led, - where 1 should be, - where 0 should be, - where 1 should be. It goes from right to left.
I can turn on the jets and put them on high and low temperature. Doesn't appear to be turning up and down the temperature though. Light button works as well.
Anyone have any thoughts? It sometimes does a static - - - when I refill it and it's full of stupid cold water (I live in Colorado) until the temperature comes up. Could it be the temperature sensor croaked? The heater element is fairly new (like last year sometime). I think I replaced the temperature sensor at the same time.
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Just a little bump on this topic since I never heard anything back. It looks like the heater is definitely busted. I'm debating two heaters - one is a flo-thru with a "tefel" coating - I'm trying to google it and I don't really see it anywhere except (ironically enough) on this forum and a few links. It's on Amazon and I think they mean "tefal" coated. It's made by the company 'thermcore" and I can't find too many reviews on it.
There is another one I was looking at from the local dealership, but it's a bit steep - $120 titanium element. I think I've found it online a lot cheaper at ~70 bucks. But I get free shipping on amazon.
Does anyone have any experience with the 'Tefal' coating or titanium elements?
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I'm going to use Dr. Spa's handy-dandy "how to test your element / how power works" guide to confirm my suspicions, but I'm 95% sure my heater element is dead. I was shipped off overseas for 6 weeks and came back to relax ... in my 82 degreee tub (which was a huge disappointment). The controls appear to be heating, and as well, I never see my TED (power consumption monitoring device) say I get up to 5-8 kva like I normally do.
Since I believe the element is bad, my question is whether or not any of you have a recommended replacement element? I've seen some that are titanium - does this really make a difference? The hype says that corrosive stuff won't stick to it. I'm wondering though if it heats as well?
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While reading an article on the weather channel I read the following line (link here):
Last, apply a borate-based detergent solution and do not rinse. This will help prevent mold from growing again. To find a borate-based detergent, read the ingredients listed on the package label for borates.I know that the water feels "wetter" or more "light" when I've added borates into it - is that the reason that mold isn't able to grow in borate infused water?
Just kinda curious.
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I went to Lowes the other day in a pinch hit effort to find dichlor after my local store had closed (was like 8 PM - needed / wanted to use tub). They had their chemicals outside, which I didn't love so much @ 25 degrees, but it was STUPID CHEAP.
And, they had Boric Acid from Dupont - I haven't found that ANYWHERE here in town, and had been ordering it online.
My question - does any of the following chemicals go bad if exposed to about -10 degree weather:
Dichor
MPS
Boric Acid
CYA
??
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Just when I think I've gotten everything squared away with chemistry, now I have more phsyical problems! Gah!
OK - pump 1, which is a lounger and two "blaster" (? I think ?) jets hooked into a 3 HP 2 speed waterway pump + wet end. I've looked at the pump and the sides to see if there are any areas weeping and I don't see anything. What could be causing the airlocks?
So, this post is decrepitly old, but I did find out a couple of things trolling through some old posts:
#1 - someone mentioned filling the hot tub through the filter was imperative, and I honestly don't know if I did that on the last fill.
#2 - I went on vacation, so I shocked to 15 PPM and when I came back 6 days later it was at 0, so I figured it was growing something funky. I threw in some spa flush and got a flithy green funk out. I nitro shocked again after it and then dumped the water.
After the dump and refill my pump works great with no recurring airlock. Perhaps it was water level? Perhaps it was murky crap on the impeller? Who knows, but the problem is resolved! Woo Hoo!
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Hiya!
We're in Northeast Ohio and have had our (bought with our home) Coast Spa for 6 years now. Generally it is a nice time to be had. When we first got it we soon realized the previous owners didn't take good care of it as it was not very old and had many issues. About $2,000 later (new electrical board among other service visits and supplies) we have it running pretty good (except for a small leak).
Anyway, we had the tub open last weekend and took a few dips while enjoying the weather. My son and I have come down with a (now known) nasty case of hot tub folliculitus. At first I thought it was some sort of allergic reaction since the floater top came off and all the chlorine (?) came out into the tub at once but after checking the Internet I know what we have now. =(
My hubby takes care of the chemicals and such so I have no clue where we are with any of those but something needs done or I'm never getting back into that nasty thing again. BTW - He uses the test strips.
I've told him we have to drain the water. However, after reading some posts on here...I'm curious if we should do a super shock or anything like that in the process. As far as I'm concerned it can be drained and not refilled til next year. This rash is uncomfortable and I pretty much feel like crap. Supposedly it will go away on its own but I'm curious if any of you have had a bout with it and what you suggest for this as well.
One last bit of info. The other day we came out to find that its possible the hottub had been tampered with. The lid was not on properly and about a foot of the tub was exposed to the elements and what not. We aren't sure if one of our daughters used it to stand on to get into her window and scooted the top off or if they had been in it and not put the top back on properly.
So, to sum it up:
1. What should we do to clear up this problem as far as the drain and refill, shock, etc. I'm definitely interested in also clearing out the pipes and anything else that can be cleaned/flushed.
2. Have any of you had this infection and if so what did you do about it medically if anything =(
Thanks! Looking forward to chatting with all of you...I may have to take responsibility for the hot tub chemicals to put my mind at ease after going through this...
Also - Make sure you clean your filter as well. Use TSP, you can get it from Home Depot or Lowes in the painting section. I perfer it to the non TSP cleaners when you decon stuff - I tried to use a happy enviro friendly one and nothing came out. I put it into a TSP solution and it got WAAAAAY cleaner. Make sure you rinse it out with your showerhead or a spray nozzle from your hose to get all the TSP out before you put it back into the water in your spa.
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Follow Nitro's Decon guide to the letter and you'll be good to go. One thing that I've had really good luck with that I can't remember if it's in there or not, is spaflush from spadepot.com.
I inherited the hot tub from my in-laws and my wife got something from it as well - not sure if it was foliculatis or what. Make sure you follow the instructions to the letter and you'll be good. And also make sure you have a really good dropper test kit. Most folks around here recommend the Taylor - I have one it's awesome. Search the site and you'll find various places to buy them. One person recommended Amato Industries and I purchased one there. The shipping was a touch slow but it was easily 10 bucks cheaper than anywhere else.
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what kind of spa is it all have there own little tricks to lean?Just when I think I've gotten everything squared away with chemistry, now I have more phsyical problems! Gah!
OK - pump 1, which is a lounger and two "blaster" (? I think ?) jets hooked into a 3 HP 2 speed waterway pump + wet end. I've looked at the pump and the sides to see if there are any areas weeping and I don't see anything. What could be causing the airlocks?
So thinking of this, I called WR today and they told me "That's really odd. We almost never see that". When I asked "When is the thing that makes you say 'Almost' they said sometimes something gets loose or there is a leak. The odd part is that I see no leak.
In general, how does one go about troubleshooting an airlock? How does it form 'usually'?
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As far as where to get a good cover, RHTubs is an active member on the board here, and their owner is usually really helpful. They've already earned my business when we get our new cover.
Not sure about the wetend. You might want to ask one of the pump parts websites, or find a local pump workshop and see if they know it'll fit.
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what kind of spa is it all have there own little tricks to lean?Just when I think I've gotten everything squared away with chemistry, now I have more phsyical problems! Gah!
OK - pump 1, which is a lounger and two "blaster" (? I think ?) jets hooked into a 3 HP 2 speed waterway pump + wet end. I've looked at the pump and the sides to see if there are any areas weeping and I don't see anything. What could be causing the airlocks?
It's a WindRiver, they are a local shop / mfg based here in Denver, CO. Other than a recent debacle with some diverters, I've found almost all of their parts to be waterway (pumps are AO smith w/ waterway wetends I believe).
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Just when I think I've gotten everything squared away with chemistry, now I have more phsyical problems! Gah!
OK - pump 1, which is a lounger and two "blaster" (? I think ?) jets hooked into a 3 HP 2 speed waterway pump + wet end. I've looked at the pump and the sides to see if there are any areas weeping and I don't see anything. What could be causing the airlocks?
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What can I use to clean my filters without buying a commercial cleaning solution.
soak them in a TSP and warm water solution overnight. Then rinse very, very well.
Any recommended TSP products? I tried cascade and bleach with water. So So results.
TriSodium Phosphate. Make sure they give you the real thing, I've not had good results with the eco-friendly (er) versions of filter cleaner.
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i have a hot tub. using bromide.
i go in and i am itcy when i come out. why is this?????
can i make my hot tub salt? if so, how do i do this and who sells the systems.
r there places online that sell these systems? if so in canada?
My wife had the same type of issues when we first got our spa. I thought I was on crack because all of my readings were NEARLY PERFECT. However, I've narrowed it down to two things: #1 - heat too high. While I "loves me some hot", as does my wife, we have to leave the tub at 102 otherwise she breaks out horribly after about 15 minutes. #2 - pH too low. My wife was having issues, and then we thought back to the only other time we experienced her break out so bad and it was in a gunnite pool / spa that had ph reduction issues (and was way out of whack because our friend's husband was out of town and his wife didn't add enough balancing chemicals I think). Low pH is acidic, you might want to try to keep it a touch high (say 7.8) and see if it makes your skin better.
As far as "salt" there isn't a truly "salt" system, just chlorine generators that run off of salt I believe. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong here.
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I looking to purchase a budget minded spa. My choices are either a Nordic w/ a single pump (new spa) or a used spa (Coleman - from dealer) with two pumps. Suggestions.
FWIW - I would much rather have the ability to change things as I saw fit on a two pump system, rather than be stuck with one dual-speed or single speed pump. Someone else said their S.O. likes to run theirs on a single speed, and they like it full blast, and I've found that to be true with my wife and I also. If it's just you that is the primary user, it'll probably not be an issue.
I would also recommend that if you're purchasing a tub and you think you might sometime upgrade in the future, make sure you pull the electrical cable ahead of time for it. It's far cheaper to do it in one fell swoop than redoing it. Also take this into account with any decking you might be building.
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Artic Spa Summit.
For a while i was having endless problems with my spa but apart from pump one having to be replaced the other week i have had a great winter with my spa, very little maintaince.
Last year we were having problems with the calcium build up around the electrodes so James advised me to use Best Defence and gave me directions on how much weekly to use and for the past 4 months my spa has been great.
I have now ran out of Best Defence and my local retailer didn't want to sell me any. Instead they fobbed me off with a half used free sample of "Scale Free" Stating this is better!
Is anyone else on this?
They told me to just use half an oz every month.
OK, so last October they were pushing "Aqua Finesse" on me to cure all my problems, stating it was the best. and now the Scale free.... what next?
Need some feed back.
If my Best Defence was doing the job why change it? why not sell it to me?
Getting frustrated again.
Nigel
What are your water qualities? Doesn't scaling typically mean you have too low of a PH?
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Hi,
I'm currently using "Brilliance for Spa's Water Clarifier w/ bioplex NMF" once per week (using about 1 oz for 230 gallons). Should I only be using this as needed(when and if the water is murky) or is it OK to use this weekly as suggested on the bottle.
I haven't found too much info on clarifier use so I figured I better ask!
Thanks
Mike
I used to use it about once a week per the bottle's direction but since I've switched to dichlor then bleach I really don't ever need it. You might try cleaning your filters with a good TSP cleaner (rinse REALLY well before returning to tub) and then converting to DTB method (Dichlor then bleach). You might have to shock it a time or two and clean out your filter again but I think you'll find that you don't need bonding agents when there's not a whole lot to bond to in the tub!
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We have a 1300 gallon tub, MasterSpa H2X Crosstrainer2. The last two water changes, I've pumped about half the water from our rain barrels, through a sock filter.
Generally, we are saving water for our fruit trees. We get 15" from Oct-May, and zero May-Oct. Because our Time of Use billing for electric (PG&E California) is more expensive April 1 - Nov 1, we make our semi-annual water change late March, and early November. Heating 1300 gals is not cheap. (Yes, we also have solar electric -- it's California)
In November we have the first rain of October on hand and expect more, and in March we have full barrels and can expect a little more in April.
My experience is that in one day or two added chems bring the water up to par, as easily or better than with tap water.
My suggestions: Don't pump from the bottom of the barrel, keep the inlet hose a foot higher. Do use a filter on the end to the tub. Be patient, it may fill slower than from your garden hose. (That's why I've used on half rainwater!)
Any comments on rainwater chemistry welcome! You may want to check the Ph BEFORE you use any rainwater -- WE are not in Ohio anymore.
Link to rain barrel photo:
http://www1.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID..._NAME=snapfish/
Holy smokes, I hope you got those barrels used! When I priced out barrels here in CO they were like $150-$200 per barrel in that size that you've got there. You're also at a nice higher elevation for your area, so I suspect (since I used to live in the bay) that you've got a significantly higher quality of water than I would get at my house here (which is slightly at the top of a depresssion in the plains at the foot of the rockies in Parker CO). Have you tested it at all for total PPM? I would think you might get a ton of TDS from your roof. Fine for root, not so sure I'd want to use it in a spa. Especially because I have asphalt shingles...
Replaced Heater Element And Red Wire Burnt To A Crisp
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Thanks for the info PS - looks like the terminal cracked from getting too hot - so I'll need a new one... :/