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NewB@Spa

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Everything posted by NewB@Spa

  1. A cigar and a cocktail...you sound like my kinda guy! I have hundreds of cigars. Hundreds! I"ll be right over
  2. Worldboy, you need to check with you municipality. Each can be very different. I have heard that for instance in California it is very restricted as to where this water can be dumped.
  3. I agree 100% with PoolSpaGuy30. Just drained my spa two weeks ago while I still had semi-good weather in the northeast and as long as I keep my routine (Nitro's method) I always make it to at least March before I feel like I need a fill. I do however try to dump mine to the curb because I have low lying areas of my backyard that I don't want to turn into a swamp. I didn't go the full monty with the big pump. I use a 1/6 hp and it take about an hour...enjoy a cigar and a cocktail and let it drain
  4. I have always used a submersible utility pump (I think it is 1/6 hp) and never had an issue. I drain ~400 gallons with a hose run of ~100ft in a little over an hour. I think I bought the pump at Lowes for about $70. Well worth it. I see by their web site they have a newer model (1/3 hp) for $84 this should do the trick nicely.
  5. gman was spot on with most of his points/advice. I did not notice one critical piece of advice. DECONTAMINATE your tub immediately. I did not catch whether this was a new or used tub, but in light of the bacteria issues you are having it is highly recommended. Use Nitro's Decon procedure; Decontamination. I had an issue with water that I could not get in balance and was causing folliculitis. I decontaminated using Spa System Flush-System Flush. Then I would refill and balance according to whatever method you are using.
  6. I have had my 400 gallon spa for almost a year and thankfully switched to the Dichlor/Bleach method after my disastrous first fill which turned out much like the friend above. My water has never been cleaner or safer. I can't imagine ever switching from this. As for the tester the Taylor Kit is good, but there is also another TFT Test Kit - TFT Test Kits which although a little more expensive at start up provides more tests, especially CYA, for your money. I have had my kit almost 9 months and I am just getting to need CYA test and Chlorine (FAS/DPD) refills. I will never, ever use strips again except for maybe testing salt (unstabilized chlorine adds salt). Do what you want, but I will tell you I am much happier - no Ph drift, no scaling, no irritation/rash.
  7. Does the SpaEase or Scum absorbers really work? I thought they were a gimmick
  8. Right now my Ph ~7.6, TA ~60, CH ~150, Borates ~50, TC~ I super shocked to 10ppm. A little foam is understandable and I can deal with that, what I had looked like a bubble bath! I will try changing out the filter. Anybody have any opinions good, or bad about filter cleaning chems/tools that are available on the Spa web sites?
  9. You may be able to run this on 120v, but you may not get heater functionality while the pumps are running and vice versa. Not certain though
  10. Over the holiday I had a large bather load in the tub (5-6 people for 1/2 hour). I super shocked (I am using bleach) in hopes of killing all the waste, I thought I did okay but I am getting a lot of foaming and I can see some of the oils/residue on the surface of the water. I just dumped and refilled a month ago. I really don't want to refill again. Any recommendations?
  11. What does everyone recommend for wiping down the spa shell with before refilling?
  12. First of all, welcome aboard! I hope your impending experience with a spa is an enjoyable one. I echo everyone else's concerns over a used tub that is not currently operation. In that you have no guarantee as to how it was drained, cleaned etc before storage there is a very good change of biofilm and other nasties growing in the plumbing. Personally I would go after a new lower end tub, your choice. There is an excellent product for cleaning out plumbing, I got it at Spa Depot http://www.spadepot.com/ (excellent source for spa needs) it is called Spa System Flush. I used it to decon my tub after my initial fill went awry. When you do get your spa do yourself a huge favor and take a look at Nitro's approach to water maintenance; http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=13634 Which is an excellent resource, I used the Dichlor/Bleach method for my second fill and for nearly four months I have had zero water issues and I am about to dump and refill again and I will most certainly be using the same method. Also make sure you get yourself a good (Taylor or TFT) test kit. Without it you will be lost. It will be the best $60 you ever spent. Good luck with whatever you choose and happy tubbing!
  13. I am getting prepared for a new fill and instead of Boric Acid (I could not find it this time) I am going with Borax and Muriatic Acid combo. Do I mix it together before I pour it into the tub? I assume I can do this last after everything is balanced?
  14. I was positive that you guys would not lead me down the wrong trail. Thanks Chem, btw you said that the cover would see the affects? I would guess that is an affect of outgassing? My tub has been averaging 4 - 6ppm, sometimes more, some less throughout this fill so you would think that this would be okay? I am right at about 4 months on this fill and I have not been running into any balance issues, should I dump and refill now? I have been getting a little pH float (7.4 - 7.7).
  15. For my last fill, almost 4 months ago, I switched to Nitro's Dichlor/Bleach method. I have not had any hint of issues through this whole period. I was speaking to a pool/spa professional and I mentioned that I switched to a bleach method and she stated she would not recommend that and was concerned that the bleach would damage the plumbing/heater element. She did not try to sell me on any product/method so I am not sure what her motive to warn would be. I trust Nitro's method, I just want to verify that someone has used this for an extended period (years) and have seen no harm
  16. Well I can certainly chime in here. I have a 400 gallon spa that I have owned (brand new) for approximately 7 months. My first fill went horribly mostly due to bad/misinformation from dealer and spa "experts". I was fortunate enough to happen upon this site and Nitro and Chem Geek's suggestions have been instrumental in my renewed enjoyment of my "baby". I filled nearly four months ago (due for a re-fill soon). After balancing initially with Calcium Chloride (~150) I get my TA in line (~80 to start). Typically that same day once everything is balanced I add the Borates to 50ppm - all of this is done with the indispensable assistance of the Pool Calculator. Usually the next day I start my course of Dichlor (to build CYO), this step the last time took approximately 5 days until I had a CYA of 30ppm. To make things easier on myself I did not use the tub throughput this entire 5-6 day process. I then switched to 6% Chlorox regular bleach and have been a happy camper ever since. I calculate my bleach use over the last 3 1/2+ months as approximately 1 gallon (~$2.00) versus lord knows how much Dichlor and multiple other chems that the "experts" recommend. They recommend it so they can sell you on a program of chems that keeps you coming back. Bleach is all you need for your day-to-day sanitation. After a typical 1 or 2 person soak (20-30 minutes) I throw in about 1/2 C of bleach which keeps my FC at about 5-6ppm, certainly not 6 gallons! My PH has never varied from between 7.2 and 7.6 - I have only used MPS once in nearly 4 months, but maybe mine doesn't get amount of usage as some.
  17. I barely read any of the other posts, but I agree with most. This "electrician" should be jailed, sued and/or have his license (assuming he has one) revoked. What he recommended is just plain deadly. I have to say there are some parts of the NEC that I do not readily agree with ( sometimes overkill), but this requirement is DEAD on!
  18. I am in my 4th month of enjoying soaking. Unfortunately I did not do enough research before my first fill, balancing never was achieved (tried in vain to use strips!). Congrats - love soaking, especially when it is clear and cold at night.
  19. It is beneficial to test (with a good drop test kit) every couple of days to see where your FC is to determine proper bleach dosing. The calculator is a tremendous tool, but you still need to accurately determine your Chlorine Demand http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.ph...c=18706&hl= only then can you get a real sense for what you need to add after each soak or as a maintenance. Since I have switched to all bleach I no longer "shock" - there is no need to.
  20. Wouldn't it be easier to just dose with Dichlor a couple of times (instead of bleach) to get CYA back up? I just hate to buy another chem just to use it once or twice.
  21. I have a question related to that. If I plan to refill every 3 to 4 months do I even need to retest my CYA between fills?
  22. I am not sure why, if you are using Dichlor, you would want to add a separate conditioner. It only takes about a week to get your CYA up to between 20 and 30 ppm. About 3 weeks ago I did an empty and re-fill and started using Nitro's method. I will never use any other method. Used a little bit of chems to get rolling and balanced and now only Chlorox at $2 a gallon
  23. Spa Depot.com is definitely my choice for chems and filters. The $3.95 shipping (for orders under $100) is great. Unfortunately they don't carry drop test kits or refills. As I have switched to Nitro's Dichlor/Bleach method my dependency on chems has decreased dramatically. Currently I am going through a gallon of Chlorox about every two months (or so). So if I need chems when I do my re-fill then I use Spadepot.com
  24. I agree with BigD...went to the Dichlor (for about 1 week to build CYA) and then switched to good old Chlorox 6% bleach from the grocery store that goes for about $2 a gallon and lasts almost 2 months. Haven't used any MPS, "Shock" or any other treatment with the exception of dry acid (to get my TA and pH in alignment). That method is a godsend - Nitro is my HERO! Do yourself a favor - next fill - switch
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