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swagmaster

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  1. I do not have an ozonator. Broke a while back and have been fine without it. Yes, does seem the rate of Ph rise is slower when TA is low. Almost seems like it's taking the Ph right out of the Alk up (baking soda). I use bromine with a frog system. I have used multiple kits and had pool stores test as well using the new fangled diagnostic machines and they confirm my readings as well. One funny thing to mention is that dip strips show water as perfect. Took water into local store to calibrate against my readings, and he first did a dip strip. I warned him it would look perfect there and didn't believe me. It looked great on the dip, but he did a drop after and agreed the water was off. Maybe I'll try the Borates and see if that does anything.
  2. I just cannot get this in order. Tried getting Alk to 90/10 first, but then Ph spiked to 8.4+ and had to add dry acid daily. Tried getting Ph in order first but that doesn't work either. Seems I add DA and the Ph lowers, good for about 6 hours then next day it is back up to 8.4. Add more DA 6 more hours of good, then next day back to high 8's. Each time lowering TA as well. Been at this for over a month. Had tub for 4+ years and never had this problem. Have had scale issues so try to keep Ph good to not make it worse. Would really like to dump the water but it's very cold her in Ohio this time of year. I am very worried that the High Alk could damage my equipment, even though the Ph is high. Have not used the tub a lot so aerated water shouldn't be a problem. Any thoughts???
  3. So just Bromine, balance the water and no scale prevnter? Wow, never heard of that , Thanks! Does anybody use a drain sock on footwelss? I have a later model Cameo and was thinking of using though they say not to. Trying to keep that scale from getting back in the system.
  4. No, it's Cleveland Ohio city water, that's why I'm so perplexed! The thinng coughs chunks of scale. And I think that clogs the filter. I'm guessing that since it was a florr model it was not cared for as well as it is now and has a good deal of build up.
  5. I use a weekly stain and scale preventative called spa protect from LiteHouse pools.
  6. No, don't believe in magic, generally keep everything at the suggested levels. I use a weekly stain and scale preventative called spa protect, but don't think that is magic?
  7. I have a problem with scale and flo issues that result in needing a new heater replaced every 1.5 to 2 years. I have a Sundance Cameo (2009). I have a real hard time with scale buildup to the point I start getting flo errors, and when the tech comes out and upon inspection, has determined twice now that the heater is filled with scale. He even showed me where if he taps on it, scale gets released into the flo switch. I use the Frog system, and keep everything well balanced. Add a couple extra bromine tabs, keep it around maybe a 2-3. So why is the scale such a recurring issue? He did mention that maybe the osonator may have died, and replacement could help the issue. He also suggested going to a Nature 2 system. The water appears clean, does get a little cloudy when running the air jets. I clean every 3-4 months and use purge every other time. Only other issue he found odd was I get a good bit of Mold or Mildew on the underside of the cover, pillows, and speakers. Very hard to remove. Any suggestion????? Help?????
  8. I have a 2009 Sundance Cameo. Recently started having problems. Spa guy replaced the heater yesterday, and the indicator stays on but the water does not heat (not even sure if it is really heating at all). The old heater was shutting down usually about 2 degrees short of the target temp. So far now they put in a new heater, and a new circuit board. The Spa water is currently at 91. reading some other great posts here, sounds like maybe a relay. My problem is it is going to get cold (18 degrees) the next few nights and I fear it may freeze. Anybody have any advice on using the small ceramic heaters in the cabinet? Do you leave it on 24x7 all day until a service guy can come out? That may not be till Monday or Tuesday. Seems like a fire hazard, hate to torch my tub! Would it be better to just drain it. The whole ceramic heater idea sounds kinda crazy.
  9. This is strange problem, and even more strange is I have the excact same issue. Spa guy rplaced the heater yesterday, and the indicator stays on but the water does not heat (not sure if mine is really heating at all). The old heater was shutting down usually about 2 degrees short of the target temp. So far now they put in a new heater, and a new board. My problem is it is going to get cold (18 dgrees) the newxt few nights and I fear it may freeze. Anybody have any advice on using the small ceramic heaters in the cabinet? Do you leave it on all day untill a service guy can come out? That may not be till Monday or Tuesday. Seems like a fire hazard, hate to torch my tub! Interested to hear what your issue is, mine sounds erirly the same.
  10. I've had the same problem with the frog, as soon as you use sodium bromide that will build your bank, then when you shock with MPS, you should get readings.
  11. Lower your TA to around 60 ppm. If your pH rises that fast from aeration then your TA is high. Also keep the pH at aboue 7.6 to 7.8. The lower you put it the faster it rises. (more CO2 in the water to gas off.) So keeping Ph a little on the high end is not a problem? Meaning, 7.6-7.8?
  12. Can someone help me. Everytime I get my Ph and Alk perfect, all it takes to screw it up is using the air jets or just adding air to my normal jets to raise me from a 7.2 to 8.0 in a single sesion. Any advice on how to avoud this, other than to not run air?
  13. NEVER use bleach it is very high in cya and has a hi PH check your phosphates if they are to hi it can mess with your sanitizers I had similar issue with high phosphate that masked bromine. Use mps instead, that will release it. Also, I used nophos but make sure you clean your filter a bit more frequently.
  14. Good Morning, I need some sage wisdom. I just completed my first empty and refill of my Cameo. Been fine for a little over 4 months with no issues. I did a purge the night before (4/9) with some chemicals (Spa System Flush) from Spa Depot. The next morning, the water water disgusting, with a lot of green slime around the water line. I managed to clean it all up. There was also a good deal of scale around the filter intake area that was very difficult to get off with any cleaner. I got off as much as i could using the Spa safe cleaner also from Spa depot, and a little purge chemical on a spange on hard areas. I dried everything off befor refilling and shop vacced out any water in the well. Repluggd and refilled with fresh water added a full bottle of Metal Remover, some bromine boost (sodium bromide), and waited till evening before putting in Bromine cartridge of Spa Frog. TA was around 115, PH=7.5, and calcium was a bit low. Bromine was not registering much at all of course. Water looked great. By Sunday afternoon 4/11, the water was at about .5 for bromine and had a cloudy tint (almost blue) to it. I cleaned the filter, added some MPS. MPS made the bromine level spike to about 2, TA = 100, and ph=7.4ish. Monday, put about 2 oz SeaKlear. I shocked again last night. My problem is that is still looks hazy. All my readings are pretty good, but just not the sparling clear I'm used to. Could there have still been some harsh chemicals in the pipes from the purge? Am I just being impatient? Could it be elf pixies playing games with my OCD? Any advice would be appreciated.
  15. Thanks for the confirmation! Smoking a cigar and estimating two more hours till tub time! It feels so good!
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