lebrocoli

Very interesting. Well, 7.95$ for a ~2000$ product is 0.4% so I think it would worth it. Just hide the cost of it in the price or in the shipping. Thanks

I like the way the heater look, I like the digital control, it works great now. When you buy something brand new that costs 2000$ and does not work for more than one hour at a time, you get very angry. The problem is probably not Jandy itself but how their units are assemble. If we assume that the issue was a damaged refractory lining, how come it happened on a unit that came directly from the factory? I guess it is like any other product where sometimes it comes defective right from the factory. Anyhow, it was my first experience with a pool heater and that is why I was very upset, thinking that the other brands were better. I was also very confused since the guy that came to install the gas line said that Jandy were excellent heaters. And even the guy that came to install the additional water pipes said something similar. It was almost like set it and forget it! At the same time, mine was not working for more than an hour so I was thinking 'wtf'? Also, I guess the technician who you deals with makes the difference. I had to call him often to get an update and the guy keep blaming my electrical installation Jesus-Christ. Anyhow, the water was at 55 and now at 81. The goal was to try it to make sure it works fine before Winter. I think that goal is attained. Thanks a lot for all your help.

Thanks a lot for all your good words! Thanks a lot for your help! It is very much appreciated. It ran from noon yesterday to midnight without any problems. I started up again this morning and all seems good again. I am still amazed by the fact that the front of the unit is a lot colder than the other unit. In the other unit, it was so hot, around the digital display that I was wondering how it could work properly. There was probably too much heat inside the unit somehow and the fuse was blowing. Winter is coming down the pipe here and you will here of me next spring when I turn the unit ON again, if I have any problems. Do you have any tips for proper winterizing?

Well, I went to lunch at home and surprise, the new unit was already installed/wired and the technician was gone. Anyhoo, before starting anything, I took some measurements: Voltage at the input of the heater: 117.9 Volts Voltage at the output of the transformer: 27.9 Volts So I started up the whole thing and the digital panel came up. Good. So I pressed on the pool button and set the temp to 80 °F. The heater lighted up and all was good again. Even though I DO NOT want to create victory right away, I notice right away 2 different positive behaviors: 1 - I noticed little or no fume from the exhaust. The other heater had a lot of gray fumes going out. 2 - I noticed that the area where the digital display sits is much less warmer than the other unit. In the other unit, it was very hot inside and around the digital control. My wife is checking every hour if it is still running. We will see. Edit: It has been 2 hours now and it is still running!

Well, I called the technician on Monday and he said that he had the unit in his shop. The problem is that the technician only comes in our region the Wednesday AND does not work if it rains. So on Monday, the weather forecast for the week was all rain so he booked somebody else. Now, we are Friday and I think he still won't come. I called him Thursday at lunch time and I left a message but since then, nothing. This is very bad and I am kind of tired of all that. We are so close to ask for a full refund...

Look closely, there are 4 wires on each side. I put the numbers on the picture.

The black and white wire is considered a black wire and the white and red is considered a red wire.

Well, it's easier than you think. When the unit comes in, all the black wires are on the same side and all the red or white wires are on the same side of the plate. So when you re-wire for 120 Volts you just put the black on the black side and the red on the red side. Then you changed your ignition wire for 120 Volts and that is it.

Well, I feel that this is impossible since there is a metal plate in between 1&2 and 3&4. So they have to be the same point. Also the voltage at the input of the heater is 119.2 Volts. Thanks

71.4 Ohms so it seems OK. Does everybody agrees that, from an Electrical Point of View, Pin 1 and Pin 2 are the same point and Pin 3 and Pin 4 are the same point?

Here is the diagram.

I took some measurements tonight. Resistance between the white wires: 71,4 Ohms Voltage at the output of the transformer: 28,8 Volts

Well, the unit is wired like it is shown on the pic. 1 - The ignition wire is connected to the 120 pin. 2 - The W/R wire is connected to the left side of the plate, where is connected all the other red or white wires. 3 - The W/BK wire is connected to the right side of the plate, where is connected all the other black wires. That matches what is shown in the documentation. If there anything else to be done, please tell me because I really do not know what is going on. Thanks

Pool Clown, The 2nd unit has not been installed yet. I was asking about the first unit, once the first unit was repaired. It worked again for 1 hour and then it was done. Quantumchromodynamics, Yes, it is a Legacy LRZE but it is a 125000 BTU unit. So it half the size I would say. The supply voltage at the unit is ~120 Volts. And Yes, the unit was re-wired for 120 Volts, as it was factory wired for 240 Volts. As for the pressure of the gaz, I have sincerely no clue. It is Natural Gaz. But let's say that I would have a pressure problem, I would assume that my digital display would work and I would have some kind of error code displayed. But the digital display is dead everytime the fuse blows. I read the voltage at the output of the transformer and it was ~28 Volts, once the unit was toasted. I found that was a little bit as it is supposed to output 24 Volts but the Jandy guy on the phone said that it was within the range. Here are some Pics: Thanks

Well, Assuming that the electrician is happy and I have also verified the end-to-end setup and all seems perfect. How can the heater work flawlessly for 1 hour? That does not make any sense. How can this be possible? Why would the fuse be happy for the first hour and then not be happy anymore? That looks like a Design flaw? Any ideas? Thanks everybody.