dotdog2

Well, the topic says it all. I got home today and the green READY light on the front of the hot tub was blinking. Everything else works just fine. The manual says there is a problem with the temperature sensor. I manually measured the temp of the tub and it is at 115 degrees! Do I need to start by replacing the thermostat? I turned the breaker off for a few minutes like the manual said to and the light has stopped blinking. Is this the part I need? Control Thermistor 2003-Current & Some 20001-02 (Item #WAT39530h) Its $20 at poolsplus.com There is also a part called Hi-Limit Thermistor 2003-Current & Some 2001-02 (Item #WAT39525h) Its also $20. What do these two different parts do? Should I replace both? Does Watkins call a thermostat a Thermistor and what is the seperate Hi-limit part for? Strange. Thanks for the help. Jim

But there is no nut on an impellor. The threads are built into the impellor. Sorry, didnt realize that.

Often when I cant hold a shaft like on an alternator or motor or anything of that nature an air powered impact gun will take it right off or put it back on tight. There is always a way to hold the shaft but when I dont feel like it I just hit it with the impact gun and it always pops right off.

What do IC and TTL stand for? Not trying to insult you either but your argument is about as good as lets eliminate TV remote controls because someone could possibly change the channel on you with a remote and who needs it when you can just walk up to the TV. The public has spoken and they want their remotes, for everything. Many people spend millions to control things in their homes they could ordinarily not control every day. You may not want it or like it but many do. No disrespect. Failures of the type you are referring to are slim to none and normally have no effect on the item being controlled. And the risk you refer to really doesn’t exist. I would know about it if there were any frequency of such events. However, the boards on these tubs are very simple. If you can reproduce one that could communicate via RS-232 that would be very cool and I may be interested in setting up some kind of business relationship. Please continue. Thanks for the Info.

Well thats just awesome! I need a moment to stop laughing before I can take you seriously. That is so something I would do. You must have hit the floor laughing when it happened. Were you just trying to see how fast they would spin? Intuition alone tells me a pressure washer is a bit much for the spa filters. I found the dishwasher to be very ineffective at cleaning the filters and find a high pressure nozzle on the yard hose much more effective. The acid solution (FreshWater filter cleaner) soak over night did wonders for the oils in the filters.

My test kit is brand new. I have had it for less than two weeks. It is a Taylor K-2006. Cal hard =170 PH=7.4-7.6 ALK=80 CYA=~80 The tub has been operating this way for the entire time it has been set up since I got it. As far as the pics of the filters go, should they be cleaned when they look like that and if so with only the dishwasher, acid filter cleaner soak, etc? Thanks

Anyone?

That should also be treated wood. Like I said, if it is not treated it will be coming down soon anyway. The landlord is full of it! The tub wont harm anything.

The deck wood is most likely pressure treated and should be sealed. If it is made of regular wood it will rot to the ground anyway within a year or two. Since it is probably pressure treated it will be fine. If the deck is old get a few gallons of Thompsons Water seal for wood and reseal it before placing the tub. If you do it will certainly be fine. What is most important about this is that you make DAMN sure that deck can support the weight of the tub water and occupants. Mine weighs ~5,500LBS with everyone in it. I built the hell out of my deck. Where the tub sits there are four 4"x4" posts 3' into the ground with concrete. The deck is not more than 1' off the ground. Two 2"x10" joists/collars linking two posts held by 1/2" carriage bolts. Same on the two posts on the other side of the tub. On top of that there are 2"x6" joists every 14"s perpendicular to the 2"x10" collars and resting on them. Then on top of that are the 5/4"x6" deck boards. My entire deck is built that way specifically to hold the tub but it only needs to be that strong where the tub is. You can call the manufacturer or look on their website for the specs on your tub. if the deck were to shatter under the load of the tub and occupants the tub will likely be destroyed and the occupants could be severely injured of killed. You should have a structural engineer look at the deck to see if it can take the weight or there is a specific part of the deck strong enough, He may be able to show you how to brace it for the weight. Good Luck with the tub! Jim

I am in the Automation industry for commercial and residential systems. We Automate homes and businesses so the owners can control everything in their home from one or several touch panels throughout their homes or business. curtains, blinds, A/C, alarm, TV's, stereo's, Spa's, Pools, Sprinkler systems, surveillance systems, Garage door, lights, Effect lights, locks, Movie Theaters, Night clubs, Multi Dwelling, Etc. Our motto is, If you can dream it up, We can control it. You can also control all these systems and more from your Iphone (any PDA), or anywhere in the world on any computer. The point is, I am wondering if there is an interface with the mother board on the Spa so it can communicate with the automation systems which are primarily RS-232 protocol for two way control? I will call the Automation system manufacturer to see but I figured someone on here may know. I know I am not the first to want to know this. An example would where a client has an icon on their touch panel labeled HOT TUB which they can touch and the screen will switch to the current temperature of the tub, desired temp, pumps on/off, lights on/off and they can cycle through the functions via the touch panel. We use AMX for our automation control equipment. Hot Springs has been useless about answering my questions and basically wont even talk to me about it. I was stunned. Does anyone know of a Hot Tub manufacturer who’s tubs can communicate with automation equipment or do have some kind of remote operation? Thanks, Jim

I don’t think this will help you much but I have a Hot Springs Envoy and have no problem drowning myself in it. I’m 6'1". My wife who is 5'7" has a hard time finding a seat that is not way to deep. We ended up buying a clear inflatable hemorrhoid doughnut from CVS pharmacy. We filled it with water from the tub by holding the valve against one of the jets. It raises her up just the right amount and offers her much improved traction on the surface of the tub and you really cant tell its there. The Grandee and Vista tubs are great though and have a depth of 38" vs. the 36" of my Envoy. I would have sprung for the larger tub if it were in the budget. I bought mine used. Jim

Good Thread! I am curious about it also. Hope I’m not thread jacking here. I stuck mine in the dishwasher after spraying the monthly cleaner on them. Ran the full dish cycle. I have the ceramic Tri-X filter cartridges for my Hotsprings Envoy. About half way through the cycle I walked into the kitchen to find the floor of the kitchen covered in suds and oozing from the dishwasher. It was a huge mess. I know it was the bubbles from the spray solution that caused the foam over in the dishwasher. I did not rinse them before droping them in the dishwasher. The filters look fine and I now have them in the red Freshwater Filter Cleaner solution soaking in a plastic tub. Running the full cycle did not seem to harm them. What do you think? I understand that mine may not have been harmed since they are the expensive ceramic Tri-X filters. I don’t know but would love to know what you think. Jim

Hello All, I am in the middle of the decontamination procedure by Nitro. I have already used the SwirlAway and drained. I am in the middle of filling the tub for the Super-Super chlorination part of the procedure. I am about to add the chlorine but am waiting on the filters to come out of the pink/red solution (FreshWater Filter cleaner in the large plastic tub they are soaking in). Here is my question, When I pulled the filters out of the tub BEFORE adding the SwirlAway they looked like this. Most, but not all, of the brown washed off with the spray nozzel on the yard hose. You can see that the filter that was on the circulation column (the filter on top of the stack) is half covered in brown and the top half is very clean (cleaner than the other four filters). The other four which were on the jet pumps are uniform in there brown-ness as you can see. I just wanted to see what you experts thought about the look of these. Normal? After how long should they look this way? When they look this way should I be cleaning them and to what extent, with what? They got this way after about 1.5 months of use every day. Like I said they are in the acid solution soak at the moment. Second Question, My Nature 2 cartridge was brand new when we started the tub up about 1.5 months ago. The water in our area is very soft. I have added calcium hardener to the water to bring the hardness up to 170ppm with the Freshwater hardener solution within a few days of the initial fill of the tub a month or so ago. The AG+(Nature 2) cartridge the tub came with did not look like this when we got the tub. So my question to you, does this cartridge look normal after 1.5 months and in my tub for that time? Should it have these white deposits all over it? The first several pictures show the cartridge with the white deposits all over it and the last two or so show the cartridge after I tapped it against the deck a few times while hosing it off. Is this normal? What should I do? Are they calcium deposits? What are they? These are after knocking the cartridge on the deck and hosing it off. Thanks for your time! Jim

Thanks for the reply! You have been very helpful with my needs so far. I have read throug all of your threads a few times. They were extreemly helpful. I have read the Dichlor/Bleach method you suggested and am now using it but I just wanted to know if the CYA at 90ppm was to high for safe soaking and what I should do about it if anything? I know about the calcium increaser and such but I wanted to know if there was some kind of "red flag" type of reason not to use soft water. I figured that was the reason and my local dealer confirmed it today. Thanks, Jim

I would like someone to take a look at this and tell me what they think. We have a four year old HotSprings Envoy with Ozone. We have very soft water here in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. The tub manual says not to use soft water to fill the tub but there is a dealer here so it is obviously not a problem after using the hardness increaser. Why does HotSprings say not to use soft water even though there are hardness increasers available? I used about 18oz of Calcium hardness increaser to get the ppm up to ~170 The PH is at ~7.4-7.6 and stays pretty steady. The Alk (TA) is at 80ppm and if I dose the tub with baking soda to get it to the right 120-150ppm the ph rises as it should to about 8.0. When I then slowly add, in small doses, the Ph decrease, the TA goes back to 80ppm. I can’t get both to stay at the ideal range. I have GentleSpa in the tub. The TA is also holding pretty steady. I do understand the PH and TA are directly correlated but to what degree? What I really don’t know about is the CYA level. When we got the tub we used a ton of chlorinating concentrate (SpaGaurd) and MPS which I have read will increase it and is why you should switch to Clorox after a CYA of 30 is achieved. Now I am using Clorox Bleach regularly. I try to add 1-2oz after we get out of the tub and 3-6oz for shocking every week. We have checked the CYA a couple of times in the last 1.5 weeks and it seems to be at ~80-90. All measurements were carefully taken with the Taylor K-2006 test kit and verified with the test strips. So, at the moment the tub has 1.5 month old water in it that is clear and does not smell bad. The readings are; PH=7.6 TA=80-90 Hardness=170 CYA=80~90 I don’t know much about CYA but know that it should not be above ~30. What is the harm in a high CYA? Is it dangerous? How so? Why? What should I do? After this weekend we are going to do the SwirlAway and decontamination procedure. The tub has clouded up twice within a day of clorox and shocking. It was a white cloudyness that went away within 24hrs after more chlorox bleach and shock. I am also getting a brown waxy residue around the water line of the tub that is hard to get off with anything other than a rag with a dab of SwirlAway. I have cleaned the filters with the dishwasher and a spray hose off the house spicket. We are also getting lots of foam bubbles on top of the water with the jets running. I have had to use 3oz of foam decreaser (spaGaurd) over the last two weeks to control the bubbles. My wife and I are very clean, use the tub almost every day and do not wash our bathing suits after we use them in the spa. We often rinse off without soap in the shower before entering the spa. Thanks, Jim

I found it listed on CL. It was originaly purchased around Shreveport

Yes, it came with the cover lift. I saw a few posts about how to make one and it is very easy. Thanks though. If I have to replace it ever I will go that route. Shreveport, Louisiana Thank you sir! Enjoy your soaking as well. Thanks for sharing your experience also! Now this is hysterical! What a small world it is we live in. The internet sure makes it smaller. That sure is Tony in the picture. He and two of his assistants moved the tub for me as I described. They were awesome guys. Tony had all kinds of great advice I didn’t even ask for. I meant no harm in the comment. I know that is understood though. Forums are absolutely wonderful! Depending on what you do, they can make you or break your business, at the least put a dent in sales. I want to add that the Dealer, East TX Spa, was fantastic to deal with and even though he knew he was not ever going to get my business he still talked on the phone with me several times recommending things for me to do and answering many questions in great detail. He made arrangements to move the tub for me with one day of notice and at a bargain price. He knew I was on a budget and that I had my back against the wall, if you will. I would have been SOL if not for the East TX spa dealer. He told me if I have any trouble with my local dealer or any questions to call any time. I am young and don’t mind doing things the hard way to save some money but I can assure you that when I am older and would rather spend some of that hard earned money on a new tub I will call East TX Spa and offer them a shot at my business. I was that impressed and highly recommend them! Keep up the great work! Jim

Take a look at this thread I started. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=21418

I have found this forum so helpful I thought I would share my story so it may help other do-it-your-selfers on a budget trying to get the most value for their money and add to the quality of the board. I have a Hot Springs Envoy. I searched Craigslist in every city within four hours from me. I found many Leisure Bay spas for $2-3K but learned I should stay away from them here on the board and I thought they looked cheap. There were several of the Costco tubs and a small variety of other quality tubs. I wanted a HotSprings large tub since I knew they were among the best tubs out there. The dealer wanted ~$13,000 for the same tub new and then there was the cost of hooking it up to the electrical. The dealer offered me a running floor model of a LimeLight for $9K out the door but it is only ~350 gallons and I wanted to be able to party in my tub! In addition to the $9K I still would have had to pay for electrical hook up and chemicals. I got the four year old 450 gallon Envoy in absolutely mint condition for $4.5K with all chemicals, cover, ozone, etc. The tub looks new except for some wear marks on the cover from sun exposure. It has the dual Moto Massage. The tub has a 5-year warranty and had a year remaining but that is now void as HotSprings only extends the warranty to the original purchaser of the tub. I had an electrician come over and paid him $100 to install the 2-pole 240V breaker in the panel and had him explain to me how to wire everything else up. I do know a bit about electrical but it’s not rocket science and if you can follow directions you can’t screw it up. It would have cost about $300 more to pay the electrician to do all the work. I purchased the sub panel with the 20amp and 30amp GFCI breakers from my local HotSprings dealer new for $225 with tax. I purchased all the wire conduit etc. from Home Depot using the exact same gauges and colors as in the HotSprings instructions, I actually substituted black for blue wire, I think. I had my electrician mark the posts in the sub panel where the different colors needed to be from what was not crystal clear from my prior reading of the tub manual. The total cost of the electrical was $550 including the; electrician, HotSprings sub panel, all conduit, wire, 50Amp breaker, etc. My tub is about 70 feet from the main panel and the Sub panel is about 10ft from the tub. My electrician even pulled out two large size 15 amp breakers for other parts of the house and replaced them with the half size breakers since there was not enough room for the 2-pole 50amp breaker as it takes two spaces in the main panel and I only had one available. The electrician even drilled the 1" hole in the brick to the exterior from the main panel in the garage with a hammer drill. The tub weighs 850+Lbs. dry. When I picked up the tub from the guy I bought it from I paid $150 to the local dealer in Shreveport, LA to meet me at his house and move it onto the 20'x6.5' tandem axle flat trailer I borrowed from a friend to haul it back to my home in south Louisiana. The tub rode on the trailer with one side cocked up on one of the wheel wells of the trailer as the tub was wider than the flat part of the trailer and I needed the tub to sit over the tandem axles of the trailer so all the weight was not on the trailer hitch and the rear axle of my truck . The spa movers assured me this was just fine and it was how they moved spas all over the place on the interstate for about 15 years before they bought a high flat top trailer. He assured me there had never been a problem from moving it that way unless I drove like an ass or got in a wreck. I did 70mph the whole way home pulling with my 2000 Nissan Pathfinder that has about 200hp through a massive storm the whole way home. FYI, 70mph is really pushing it. The tub was strapped down with heavy duty yellow trailer straps and the folding cover was folded in half and tucked in the tub with the end hanging out the back of the tub towards the rear of the trailer. The cover was further strapped down with a regular 500lb thin trailer strap. The truck was guzzling gas but there were no problems. In Shreveport three, not so athletic, Hispanic gentleman lifted one side of the spa and slid a 2' x 4' metal dolly with four 8" or larger wheels under the spa into the middle, very similar to the flat carts at Home Depot or Lowe's. Any tool rental company in your area should have these and the rental should be less than $75. I suggest borrowing one as they are quite common and easy to find with a little looking. The Spa guys then put two 8'x2' pieces of 3/4" plywood end to end and slowly rolled the tub effortlessly from one plywood sheet to another over the grass, moving one plywood sheet in front of the other as they rolled the spa off of one sheet and onto the next. I was amazed how they rolled it down the hill and onto my trailer using one of the pieces of plywood as a ramp. To get the dolly out from under the spa after it was in position on the trailer, they just lifted one side again and pulled the dolly out from under. I wouldn’t have believed this was possible nor easy, for that matter, had I not seen this done first hand. I couldn’t believe it. When I got home with the spa I had to move it from the front driveway to the back deck going through a 5' wide gate and making a 90 degree turn. To move the spa I borrowed a similar cart from my old apartment complex. It was a real piece of **** but was steel and had four sturdy plastic wheels. I went to Lowe's and purchased a 4'x8' 3/4" plywood sheet for $12 and had Lowe's cut it into the two perfect 2'x8' pieces for free. I then scheduled for 8 of my friends to come over in the evening a few days later when they were all available. We got the spa off the trailer the exact same way the Spa guys in Shreveport put it on, worked flawlessly and my plywood did not even creek under the load of the 850+lb tub rolling off the trailer, it did flex quite a bit. After rolling the tub effortlessly onto the sidewalk, we tipped the tub up putting one side in the grass and removing the dolly from underneath the tub. We then moved the dolly to the side of the tub resting on the grass and put the first 2'x8' plywood sheet under the dolly. We lifted the tub from the edge on the grass and rested the lip of the siding of the tub on the cart. THAT PART IS VERY IMPORTANT OR THE TUB WILL NOT BE STABLE ON THE CART AND IT WILL BE VERY DIFFICULT TO PUT THE TUB ONT THE CART ON ITS SIDE as the cart will want to kick out from under the tub as you turn it up onto it. Trust me, we tried it the other way, not cool. One guy then held the dolly down as the other seven of us lifted from the other side that was still on the sidewalk. We put a few towels down on the dolly so the siding of the tub would not get scratched. The tub tipped up perfectly on to its side on the dolly and would safely stay there with no one touching it. We then put the other piece of 2'x8' plywood at the other end of the 2'x8' piece already under the dolly in the direction of the back yard with about two inches of the next sheet of plywood tucked just under the plywood sheet the dolly was on at the moment. Keep in mind the two front wheels of the dolly were steerable. With everyone having a hand or two on the tub so it could not topple over, we then, very easily rolled the dolly with the tub to the back yard over the grass and through the gate moving the tub 8' at a time moving each consecutive sheet of plywood to the direction we needed to go in front of the plywood sheet the tub was currently sitting on just after we rolled off of the previous sheet. We easily made the 90 degree turn with 6” or less to spare on either side of the tub. When we got to the deck, which is 1ft above the ground on a slight hill, we turned the tub back down on its side at the edge of the deck, resting the high side of the tub, that was highest in the air as it rested on the dolly, onto the edge of the deck. We then lifted the side still on the dolly up with six of us and removed the dolly from under the edge of the tub that was still on the dolly. We then moved the dolly onto the deck and out of the way. Next, the eight of us lifted the edge of the tub, now on the grass, and slid the tub all the way onto the deck by just pushing it. It slides very easily. We then moved everyone onto the deck and lifted one side high enough to put the dolly back under the tub and into the middle. We then easily rolled and steered the tub to where we wanted it on the deck then lifted one side and removed the dolly. It all took about 20-30 minutes from trailer to deck and my wife had a trough of ice cold beer waiting for the guys when we were done. It was safe and simple with so many people. My friends were all saying it couldnt be done before we started moving it. They were amazed like I was. Just two of us were able to lift one side of the tub high enough to get the dolly under the tub if you don’t need to put the tub on the dolly on its side. You will need an extra person to slide the dolly in and out from under the tub if you do, so you will need three people just like the guys in Shreveport moved the tub onto my trailer. I built my deck the weekend before. It is 20'x12' and was built with two 2"x10" collars linking each set of three posts with 1/2" carriage bolts at each post. There are 12 posts under the deck, 4"x4". 3’ into the ground. The posts under the tub are about 6' apart square. On top of the 2"x10" collars are the 2"x6" floor joists of the deck spaced every 14" there about running the 20’ length of the deck. Then on top of that is 5/4" x6" x12’ deck board. She’s rock solid. It looks over a lake. The tub sits about 5' above the surface of the lake and about 10' from the shore line. I do own many tools but they can all be rented. The total cost of the materials was about $1400 with the framing nail gun and two-man post hole digger rental from Home Depot. The holes can be done in about an hour so you only need a four hour rental. I had the nail gun for two or three days. I thought paying a bunch of greedy movers $450+ (the lowest I was quoted from a few movers) to move it just as I did was ridiculous. All in all I paid $4,500 for the tub, $150 in Shreveport to move it, $550 for the subpanel and electrical connections, about $1,400, about $150 in gas to drive the tub home, Beers for the guys $20, $300 on 5 new Tri-X filters, and additional chemicals I have purchased $150. All in all this adventure has cost me ~$7,220 and I have an awesome back yard to relax in with the wife. To buy new and pay someone to do everything I did in two weekends would have cost me almost $20,000. I told my local dealer what I was doing and was strait forward with them when I went to look at their new tubs and they have been more than helpful and are great to deal with since I bought the used tub. Their attitude has not changed one bit. The hourly rate for the dealer here is $150 per hour which is just ridiculous. You can’t justify this. I feel horrible for the people who have to pay since they don’t have the time or know how to work on the tub themselves. Some Ferrari mechanics, my doctor (who went to school for ten years), and the mechanics who work on my friends $150K+ AMG Mercedes don’t charge that much. I do understand that I am an exception and have a thorough background in physics, engineering, plumbing, hydrodynamics, electrical engineering, and have no problem tearing into this sucker if there is ever a problem or a leak. I found a website that sells every single part for the tub at half the cost of the retail prices. Keep in mind, I don't care what anyone tells you, this is still just a tub shell with simple plumbing, pumps, valves, jets, and lights. The magic happens in the circuit board and if something goes wrong there it more than likely has to be replaced anyway. I did replace three of the stationary jets in the tub that unscrew with three of the jets that spin. We enjoy those seats much more now as the single stationary jets blasting away in the same spot gets old quick. My way is not the method for all and I understand and respect those who don’t want to screw with the hassle of a used tub and the DIY process, nor may they have the time. This is my first spa and I wasn’t about to spend a fortune finding out if we are “soakers” or not. Money was not an issue for me but I save when and where I can and get a kick out of telling people I built all this. It was very fun to do with a few friends over two weekends. One thing I will recommend, no…insist, to anyone out there, If you buy a used hot tub, follow Nittro's Decontamination procedure to the letter regardless of how you think the tub was maintained before. There is a ton of bad **** you want nothing to do with that could be lingering in the tub and at the very least, not doing so, will likely cause you to use way more chemicals than you need and make the water hard to balance. I use test strips but find them to be very inaccurate for anything other the Free Chlorine and Ph. I purchased a Taylor K-2006 Complete test kit online and find it to be much more accurate and the wife thinks it is fun. We use Bleach and the other chemicals as suggested in Nittro's spa maintenance procedures. The chemical maintenance was a bit over whelming at first but at the one month mark I have a good understanding of it and have it under control. My understanding has come from the use of the search function and reading old threads on this board. We love the tub and have used it almost every night since we got it. We have had it for about a month now. I don’t know what the elec. bill will look like but the soaking is worth it. Can’t wait till it gets cold out! Well, that is my story. Hope it helps you out with getting a tub, Jim

I have used spa flush on many occasions, It is very good at clearing the pipes out. It leaves all the biofilm around the edge of the spa. Swirl away and Spa purge do not do this? How so you clean the biofilm from the edge of the spa? Thanks

Thanks for the great info! I will certainly try this little mod. I wonder why it didnt come from the factory like that? Constant display of the current temp would be great also. I wonder if that is true?

I just measured the temp a few minutes ago with a cooking thermometer and it is at 96 degrees and the green ready light came on when I raised the temp setting to 93 so your +-5 deg variance seems right. I have had the cover completely off since my last post. I still dont know why the tub was so hot yesterday. I would still like to know if the jumper setting you mentioned above only make the ready light come on when the tub is exactly at the set temp? Will it do anything else? Thanks for all your help, Jim

Thanks for the info! All day today I left the cover cracked about 4" with a dry towel and this afternoon the temp is still at 104 and the temp on the panel has been set at 80 since yesterday night. The high today in Baton Rouge was 89 and sunny. What do you guys think is going on here? ...Its too hot to enjoy for more than a few minutes. We like to sit in it for 30min to an hour. Im starting to think something is broken that regulates the temp. I touched the heater and it does not feel hot nor does the circ. vent on the floor of the tub seem to have super hot water coming from it that would indicate the heater was on. Is it possible the heater is staying on for to long when it cycles? Will the jumper setting you mentioned above only make the ready light come on when the tub is at the set temp? Will it do anything else? I do smell Ozone. I know it is working now.

What about Spa Flush?

do the boards on the SH Envoy really fail that often? Why would the strings indicate a board change? I changed the hose tonight and checked the check valve. It was fine and working. The bubbles stopped when I blocked off the ozonator end of the hose. All is fine with the new hose and was before I changed it. On another note, I turned the tub breakers off when I was changing the Ozonator hose. Three hours later when my wife and I got in the tub, the ready light would not come on until I took the temp setting of the tub above 104, at the UT-1 setting above 104! Is this normal if you reset the breaker? I had turned it back down to 90 right after the reset. The tub was way to hot to enjoy for any period of time, it was at least 104 degrees. I am wondering if I may have a temp regulation problem like I was talking about in previous posts. Thanks again. Jim.