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dotdog2

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  1. Well, the topic says it all. I got home today and the green READY light on the front of the hot tub was blinking. Everything else works just fine. The manual says there is a problem with the temperature sensor. I manually measured the temp of the tub and it is at 115 degrees! Do I need to start by replacing the thermostat? I turned the breaker off for a few minutes like the manual said to and the light has stopped blinking. Is this the part I need? Control Thermistor 2003-Current & Some 20001-02 (Item #WAT39530h) Its $20 at poolsplus.com There is also a part called Hi-Limit Thermistor 2003-Current & Some 2001-02 (Item #WAT39525h) Its also $20. What do these two different parts do? Should I replace both? Does Watkins call a thermostat a Thermistor and what is the seperate Hi-limit part for? Strange. Thanks for the help. Jim
  2. But there is no nut on an impellor. The threads are built into the impellor. Sorry, didnt realize that.
  3. Often when I cant hold a shaft like on an alternator or motor or anything of that nature an air powered impact gun will take it right off or put it back on tight. There is always a way to hold the shaft but when I dont feel like it I just hit it with the impact gun and it always pops right off.
  4. What do IC and TTL stand for? Not trying to insult you either but your argument is about as good as lets eliminate TV remote controls because someone could possibly change the channel on you with a remote and who needs it when you can just walk up to the TV. The public has spoken and they want their remotes, for everything. Many people spend millions to control things in their homes they could ordinarily not control every day. You may not want it or like it but many do. No disrespect. Failures of the type you are referring to are slim to none and normally have no effect on the item being controlled. And the risk you refer to really doesn’t exist. I would know about it if there were any frequency of such events. However, the boards on these tubs are very simple. If you can reproduce one that could communicate via RS-232 that would be very cool and I may be interested in setting up some kind of business relationship. Please continue. Thanks for the Info.
  5. Well thats just awesome! I need a moment to stop laughing before I can take you seriously. That is so something I would do. You must have hit the floor laughing when it happened. Were you just trying to see how fast they would spin? Intuition alone tells me a pressure washer is a bit much for the spa filters. I found the dishwasher to be very ineffective at cleaning the filters and find a high pressure nozzle on the yard hose much more effective. The acid solution (FreshWater filter cleaner) soak over night did wonders for the oils in the filters.
  6. My test kit is brand new. I have had it for less than two weeks. It is a Taylor K-2006. Cal hard =170 PH=7.4-7.6 ALK=80 CYA=~80 The tub has been operating this way for the entire time it has been set up since I got it. As far as the pics of the filters go, should they be cleaned when they look like that and if so with only the dishwasher, acid filter cleaner soak, etc? Thanks
  7. That should also be treated wood. Like I said, if it is not treated it will be coming down soon anyway. The landlord is full of it! The tub wont harm anything.
  8. The deck wood is most likely pressure treated and should be sealed. If it is made of regular wood it will rot to the ground anyway within a year or two. Since it is probably pressure treated it will be fine. If the deck is old get a few gallons of Thompsons Water seal for wood and reseal it before placing the tub. If you do it will certainly be fine. What is most important about this is that you make DAMN sure that deck can support the weight of the tub water and occupants. Mine weighs ~5,500LBS with everyone in it. I built the hell out of my deck. Where the tub sits there are four 4"x4" posts 3' into the ground with concrete. The deck is not more than 1' off the ground. Two 2"x10" joists/collars linking two posts held by 1/2" carriage bolts. Same on the two posts on the other side of the tub. On top of that there are 2"x6" joists every 14"s perpendicular to the 2"x10" collars and resting on them. Then on top of that are the 5/4"x6" deck boards. My entire deck is built that way specifically to hold the tub but it only needs to be that strong where the tub is. You can call the manufacturer or look on their website for the specs on your tub. if the deck were to shatter under the load of the tub and occupants the tub will likely be destroyed and the occupants could be severely injured of killed. You should have a structural engineer look at the deck to see if it can take the weight or there is a specific part of the deck strong enough, He may be able to show you how to brace it for the weight. Good Luck with the tub! Jim
  9. I am in the Automation industry for commercial and residential systems. We Automate homes and businesses so the owners can control everything in their home from one or several touch panels throughout their homes or business. curtains, blinds, A/C, alarm, TV's, stereo's, Spa's, Pools, Sprinkler systems, surveillance systems, Garage door, lights, Effect lights, locks, Movie Theaters, Night clubs, Multi Dwelling, Etc. Our motto is, If you can dream it up, We can control it. You can also control all these systems and more from your Iphone (any PDA), or anywhere in the world on any computer. The point is, I am wondering if there is an interface with the mother board on the Spa so it can communicate with the automation systems which are primarily RS-232 protocol for two way control? I will call the Automation system manufacturer to see but I figured someone on here may know. I know I am not the first to want to know this. An example would where a client has an icon on their touch panel labeled HOT TUB which they can touch and the screen will switch to the current temperature of the tub, desired temp, pumps on/off, lights on/off and they can cycle through the functions via the touch panel. We use AMX for our automation control equipment. Hot Springs has been useless about answering my questions and basically wont even talk to me about it. I was stunned. Does anyone know of a Hot Tub manufacturer who’s tubs can communicate with automation equipment or do have some kind of remote operation? Thanks, Jim
  10. I don’t think this will help you much but I have a Hot Springs Envoy and have no problem drowning myself in it. I’m 6'1". My wife who is 5'7" has a hard time finding a seat that is not way to deep. We ended up buying a clear inflatable hemorrhoid doughnut from CVS pharmacy. We filled it with water from the tub by holding the valve against one of the jets. It raises her up just the right amount and offers her much improved traction on the surface of the tub and you really cant tell its there. The Grandee and Vista tubs are great though and have a depth of 38" vs. the 36" of my Envoy. I would have sprung for the larger tub if it were in the budget. I bought mine used. Jim
  11. Good Thread! I am curious about it also. Hope I’m not thread jacking here. I stuck mine in the dishwasher after spraying the monthly cleaner on them. Ran the full dish cycle. I have the ceramic Tri-X filter cartridges for my Hotsprings Envoy. About half way through the cycle I walked into the kitchen to find the floor of the kitchen covered in suds and oozing from the dishwasher. It was a huge mess. I know it was the bubbles from the spray solution that caused the foam over in the dishwasher. I did not rinse them before droping them in the dishwasher. The filters look fine and I now have them in the red Freshwater Filter Cleaner solution soaking in a plastic tub. Running the full cycle did not seem to harm them. What do you think? I understand that mine may not have been harmed since they are the expensive ceramic Tri-X filters. I don’t know but would love to know what you think. Jim
  12. Hello All, I am in the middle of the decontamination procedure by Nitro. I have already used the SwirlAway and drained. I am in the middle of filling the tub for the Super-Super chlorination part of the procedure. I am about to add the chlorine but am waiting on the filters to come out of the pink/red solution (FreshWater Filter cleaner in the large plastic tub they are soaking in). Here is my question, When I pulled the filters out of the tub BEFORE adding the SwirlAway they looked like this. Most, but not all, of the brown washed off with the spray nozzel on the yard hose. You can see that the filter that was on the circulation column (the filter on top of the stack) is half covered in brown and the top half is very clean (cleaner than the other four filters). The other four which were on the jet pumps are uniform in there brown-ness as you can see. I just wanted to see what you experts thought about the look of these. Normal? After how long should they look this way? When they look this way should I be cleaning them and to what extent, with what? They got this way after about 1.5 months of use every day. Like I said they are in the acid solution soak at the moment. Second Question, My Nature 2 cartridge was brand new when we started the tub up about 1.5 months ago. The water in our area is very soft. I have added calcium hardener to the water to bring the hardness up to 170ppm with the Freshwater hardener solution within a few days of the initial fill of the tub a month or so ago. The AG+(Nature 2) cartridge the tub came with did not look like this when we got the tub. So my question to you, does this cartridge look normal after 1.5 months and in my tub for that time? Should it have these white deposits all over it? The first several pictures show the cartridge with the white deposits all over it and the last two or so show the cartridge after I tapped it against the deck a few times while hosing it off. Is this normal? What should I do? Are they calcium deposits? What are they? These are after knocking the cartridge on the deck and hosing it off. Thanks for your time! Jim
  13. Thanks for the reply! You have been very helpful with my needs so far. I have read throug all of your threads a few times. They were extreemly helpful. I have read the Dichlor/Bleach method you suggested and am now using it but I just wanted to know if the CYA at 90ppm was to high for safe soaking and what I should do about it if anything? I know about the calcium increaser and such but I wanted to know if there was some kind of "red flag" type of reason not to use soft water. I figured that was the reason and my local dealer confirmed it today. Thanks, Jim
  14. I would like someone to take a look at this and tell me what they think. We have a four year old HotSprings Envoy with Ozone. We have very soft water here in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. The tub manual says not to use soft water to fill the tub but there is a dealer here so it is obviously not a problem after using the hardness increaser. Why does HotSprings say not to use soft water even though there are hardness increasers available? I used about 18oz of Calcium hardness increaser to get the ppm up to ~170 The PH is at ~7.4-7.6 and stays pretty steady. The Alk (TA) is at 80ppm and if I dose the tub with baking soda to get it to the right 120-150ppm the ph rises as it should to about 8.0. When I then slowly add, in small doses, the Ph decrease, the TA goes back to 80ppm. I can’t get both to stay at the ideal range. I have GentleSpa in the tub. The TA is also holding pretty steady. I do understand the PH and TA are directly correlated but to what degree? What I really don’t know about is the CYA level. When we got the tub we used a ton of chlorinating concentrate (SpaGaurd) and MPS which I have read will increase it and is why you should switch to Clorox after a CYA of 30 is achieved. Now I am using Clorox Bleach regularly. I try to add 1-2oz after we get out of the tub and 3-6oz for shocking every week. We have checked the CYA a couple of times in the last 1.5 weeks and it seems to be at ~80-90. All measurements were carefully taken with the Taylor K-2006 test kit and verified with the test strips. So, at the moment the tub has 1.5 month old water in it that is clear and does not smell bad. The readings are; PH=7.6 TA=80-90 Hardness=170 CYA=80~90 I don’t know much about CYA but know that it should not be above ~30. What is the harm in a high CYA? Is it dangerous? How so? Why? What should I do? After this weekend we are going to do the SwirlAway and decontamination procedure. The tub has clouded up twice within a day of clorox and shocking. It was a white cloudyness that went away within 24hrs after more chlorox bleach and shock. I am also getting a brown waxy residue around the water line of the tub that is hard to get off with anything other than a rag with a dab of SwirlAway. I have cleaned the filters with the dishwasher and a spray hose off the house spicket. We are also getting lots of foam bubbles on top of the water with the jets running. I have had to use 3oz of foam decreaser (spaGaurd) over the last two weeks to control the bubbles. My wife and I are very clean, use the tub almost every day and do not wash our bathing suits after we use them in the spa. We often rinse off without soap in the shower before entering the spa. Thanks, Jim
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