cyber-junkie

1) yes 303 is a good product, use weekly if you can 2) For best use tap water but use a food grade hose (if you can) atleast not a cheap hose and if you filter the water it's better. 3) Don't know 4) I have tried some of these "blue" treatments, to me more of a pain in the rear, I keep going back to chlorine, it's simple, effective and if you use it right it works well, I keep rather low levels but right after a use is when I mainly add it so it takes care of what was just left in the water and the next use it doesn't kill your skin or eyes and have had zero problems since. Last, if you have well water, check your hardness and PH, both are important to keep water chemistry correct and it will lead to longer life and easier to control the water. Hope this helps.

My filter "container" is leaking at the threads, the container is connected by a 2-3/8" OD hose, you can only move the container about a 1/4-1/2" and will move fairly easily, the threaded collar it screws into (the light gray) is siliconed to the tub shell, the inside part of this where the actual filter goes does not want to move, what has happened and how do I fix this? I have a pic but don't see how to attach it.

The hot tub is about 10 years old, good shape and I am trying to clean the jets and get the pulsers pulsing again So if it's just paint maybe I can scrub it off and keep using the jets as a few still work good, just don't know what this is, it's so uniformed in thickness that either the plastic is layered on the jet body or it's a factory paint, I've had this tub since new and no one has painted them, if it was done it's factory.

I have a Costco spa with Waterway stainless steel 5 point scallop jets and the mini-storm 3" have all but quit pulsing so I removed them to soak them in vinigar to remove the calcium which I thought to be the problem but after not much comming off them in the vinigar water I opened one up and the tabs on the body that hold it to the face to the body broke off and the ballbearings had moved out of the ring that holds them in place so that the pulser can spin, does the body just wear out so that the bearings fall out of place? and the jet body either has white paint on it that is flaking off or the top layer of plastic is flaking off as the body looks white but under the paint or plastic the body is kinda opaque in color and you can kinda see through the plastic...what is going on? do they just wear out or do the ballbearings just get out of place now and then.

Hi I am replacing my motor it's a 4 hp GE marathon, this is supposed to be a replacement motor, looks the same but the hookup is different, this is a 220 50 amp spa but the motor has a white (common i think) and the black I would think the power, the diagram on the motor has the two lines drawn with the word "line" in between and "ungrounded" on the top wire, the motor has on the specs. V 230 and Hz 60, if this is a 220 it shouldn't matter which goes where if they are 2 separate 110 lines or does it?

Hi I have a water softener which I really like, (can be bypassed) I have read so much about soft water in the spa, some say bad, others say it won't hurt anything, kinda like sanitizers....does anyone really know? The "Cleanwater blue" copper system I think recommends soft water, getting rid of the calcium, I like that!! I hate having to remove calcium deposits from the spa shell and my "city tap" water is only around ~140 TH, now I have read it's the "salt" that the softener replaces the calcium with that's bad for spas, yet they sell these salt water chlorine generators for spas...once again seems like conflicting advice....What's the deal with using soft water, not pure soft because most softeners will not remove all the calcium, and if it's ph drift, won't boric acid help stabilize this if the initial water is balanced? If the cleanwater system is "ok" with soft water would the Nature 2 also?, not sure which I want to use as I have sensitive, dry skin and itch real bad after using my tub with regular (non soft) water, never got a rash, I think it's the chemicals (chlorine) and hardness being beat in to my skin because I have very little itching using softer water and almost no chlorine (I did a test), so I was thinking about using either Natures2 or Clearwater with the "low chlorine" recipe with medium soft water ~60 ish...which do you think better or easier on the skin? Thanks

TA = 150

Would borac acid help bring down the ph? Seems to be recomended on this site for water chemistry.

Chlorine was low, but I only use a little after being in hot tub, all other except the CA were within range, I also use the Natures2. My PH is always high and usually drifts up close to 8, so I thought I could bring it down with ascorbic acid instead of using a poison acid.

Hey I have milky water, changed it a few weeks ago, has been fine but haven't used in the last week and went to check chem. levels and...milky, cloudy water. I have had a problem with high PH, so this time I thought I would use 100% pure ascorbic acid crystals, and it didn't take alot and it brought it down, and it stayed down, but is this what made the water milky? When I checked the chem. of the water the only thing really off was the CA, it was low. Thanks

I don't know of and have not tried these, I have allergies and dry skin, but oily scalp...I know my skin doesn't make sense and it seems that chemicals are the issue, I have filters and a softener on my home and can take baths/showers alot hotter than my tub with no effect so it's not the water temp.

I have tried all combo's...I am sensitive to them all, I think I have some skin disorder/disease and have wondered if sodium chlorite/chlorine dioxide might be easier on my skin because it does not seem to be as destructive to the body, hence it's allowed as a food additive and maybe find something that would help/kill whatever in on/in my skin. I am not a chemist but I have read the sodium chlorite is used by some water districts to purify their water, don't know how much/how, don't really know what to do but it appears as if it is/has been used for this purpose.

Has anyone herd of MMS which is some form of sodium chlorite and they say is far less destructive on the body and some say it helps...anyway not trying to debate that, what I was wondering was if sodium chlorite would be less of a problem to my sensetive skin and if any of the stuff I read about it it true it might help the skin problems I have (if it did that I would know something works) but could I use in my hot tub instead of the standard chlorine which I believe is sodium hypochloride or something like that. Sodium chlorite is used in the food industry and in some water treatments, so I thought it might be worth a try, I use the nature 2 so I don't have to use much standard spa chlorine, but it still irritates my skin now and then.

When removing Waterway jets to clean them, is there any special way or procedure to do this so you wont mess them up and make it easy for them to come out? Thanks

Hi I have a beautiful almond pearl spa, where the water splashes out and dries there is a residue, I have a waterhardness of about 250 so I use 1/2 - 1/2 city water and water from my softner and the hardness is about 130 now....what is being deposited on the shell, is it calcium or salt residue? and what is the best to clean it? Thanks