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Bugman1400

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Everything posted by Bugman1400

  1. I posted several other threads about my LAARS heater.....so, I'm working on my heater and then the pool pump shuts off and I start smelling something funny. I first think the controller shut it off or maybe the relay went bad but, there it was......240V on my Fluke on the load side of the relay. I go back and feel the motor.....the damn thing is way hot! I just bought this Emerson 1HP pool motor a year ago from Leslie's. Anybody else have this issue? Emerson's website shows that this e-Line pool pump has a 12 month warranty.......guess I better haul a$$ back to Leslie's....pronto!!!!!! WTF?
  2. Okay, got a question for all you LAARS pool heater repairmen. I ordered a 150 deg HI-LIMIT switch and harness (R0334700) that goes with it and the 135 deg switch. The problem is that the wire between the two switches is too short and is also white versus the original black. Any suggestions or tricks of the trade? I'll curse the first person who tells me to paint the wires black!!!!! IOW, is there a vendor that sells the correct harness or should I just forget it and fix the original harness. Mucho grassyass and have a great weekend!!!!
  3. UPDATE: The exhaust over-temp switch has a little red button on the back. Once I pressed that, I got continuity. Now, I am receiving the 24V signal to the IND terminal of the Fenwal. I'm not sure why the over-temp switch was tripped, but there are no other signs. When I picked up this used heater it was covered with leaves, sticks, muck, etc. Perhaps the exhaust got blocked at some point. Thanks again!!
  4. Well, I got my heater working....sort of. I manually jumped 24V to the IND of the Fenwal, but the unit still would not light. I saw Pool Clown's advice on another thread about the flame sensor so, I passed the sandpaper over it a few times and it worked. So, now the heater will light with the 24V jumped to the IND terminal. Obviously, this is a bad way to do things since it bypasses all the safety switches, but at least I got confirmation that the Fenwal, gas valve, HSI, and blower works. I also checked all of the switch paths and they have continuity. This leads me to believe that the controller is bad. Luckily, I found a new one on E-bay for $160. Mucho thanks PC...........You rock! UPDATE: Went by the Rat Shack and bought a pack of jumpers and a 12-0-12V hobby xfmr and then bench tested my controller. Well....it worked as designed. I think one important thing I missed from the beginning of my ordeal was to listen to PC when he said to check the "3.Fuse link/roll out with exhaust over temp". With this circuit jumped out the controller works great.
  5. Well, I got my heater working....sort of. I manually jumped 24V to the IND of the Fenwal, but the unit still would not light. I saw Pool Clown's advice on another thread about the flame sensor so, I passed the sandpaper over it a few times and it worked. So, now the heater will light with the 24V jumped to the IND terminal. Obviously, this is a bad way to do things since it bypasses all the safety switches, but at least I got confirmation that the Fenwal, gas valve, HSI, and blower works. I also checked all of the switch paths and they have continuity. This leads me to believe that the controller is bad. Luckily, I found a new one on E-bay for $160. Mucho thanks PC...........You rock!
  6. Some people call it a "glow bar". I can see mine glowing off a reflection in the bottom stainlees steel pan in my LAARS LT400N.
  7. Thanks for the info. I will jumper accordingly and see if IND gets the 24V.
  8. I almost bought a Fenwal on-line, but I made one last check to make sure that buying a new unit would not result in the same problem. After a bit more research on the schematic, it appears that the Fenwal is looking for a call for heat (24V) on the IND terminal from the controller. The inducer blower then starts up. It then expects (24V) on the TH terminal from the controller after the pressure switch does its thing. After that, I think the ignitor then glows. Well, I do not appear to be receiving any of the 24V from the controller. So, now I am to believe that the controller is bad. That's even more money!!!!!! However, I found a controller for an LX400 on E-bay for $170, but I have an LT400. The question of the day is......can I use the LX400 controller on the LT400?
  9. I disconnected the wire from F2 and get zero volts at the terminal. Sounds to me that my 05-33 Series Fenwal is bad. Would you agree? If so, is there a cheap replacement for these? The price I see on the internet are around $340....whew, that is high!
  10. When I initially tested F2 to Gnd I did get 120V. However, I think I was reading L1 through the motor winding. When I disconnected the BLACK motor wire I then got zero volts to Gnd on F2. I also confirmed that the blower motor is working; when I connected it directly to L1 and L2. I also confirmed that F1 to L1 is 240V. It appears that F1 is switched through a relay on the Fenwal board to source F2. This does not seem to be happening in my case. So, I am guessing that I have a bad Fenwal Ignition Control. Would you agree? Or, is there a signal sent from the Electronic Controller to tell the Fenwal to start the blower motor? Thanks Pool Clown.
  11. For a 240V connected motor (L1 & L2), I am assuming that either L1 or L2 stays connected all the time and then a relay/contactor is switching in the other hot leg. Is this correct? Also, is this handled through the Ignition Control? Nevermind, I see from a Fenwal manual that F1 and F2 power the blower. I see the Ignition Control module...what is Fenwal? Nevermind, I figured out that Fenwal is the Ignition Controller. Also, for testing the blower, I had planned on disconnecting the terminals and bumping it with 240V to see if it spins. As I said before, I don't think it is the blower since I never got 240V across the terminals, but I'll check anyway. Much thanks PC!
  12. I have a LAARS LT400 that is wired for 240V. I also have the 15-pin plug that is all RED and says 240V. I've also measured 240V across the source and coming in on the terminal strip (Red/Black). My symptom is that I get the ES1 light and the manual says to check the flue (blower motor). The blower motor does not blow, however, I am able to manually spin the motor and it seems to rotate fine. I also checked the voltage to ground and get 120V, but across the terminals I get zero (this tells me that I am only getting one phase, L1). I also disconnected the motor and checked the terminal strip and only get the 120V. In the manual it shows the 15-pin plug, but not the routing of the red wires. Does anyone have a schematic to show this or can otherwise, help me out? What other switches are needed to make the blower blow? Mucho thanks!!!!
  13. Sounds like a plan! I'll report my findings.
  14. I got an AquaLinkRS off a friend, but the Thermometers were cut a bit short. It appears that the pink colored cable is a 2-conductor 22 gauge. Can I just solder some new cable to the ends so I can route it to the controller or do I have to buy the whole 7790 Temperature Sensor Kit? Thanks!
  15. Thanks Newbie, but I'm not sure what an electrician has to do with gas piping. As far as electricity, I am definitely good on that. I'd rather ask experienced heater installers?
  16. Thanks for the manual. Question: For my LT400N, the manual indicates that I need to run a 1.5" pipe over to the heater since the span is 50-60 feet. However, my gas meter is 3/4" and the heater is 3/4". Is it practical/normal to use 1.5" pipe for distances that are 50-60 feet? What have you pool experts seen/installed? Or, do you run 3/4" pipe and crank up the pressure and then regulate it back at the heater?
  17. I just bought a used Laars LT400N. Does anyone have a PDF of the install/owner's manual? Mucho thanks!!
  18. I would say forget it. You are never going to be able run your heatpump more efficiently from your generator than you are from the house......unless you are getting the gasoline for free. It may cost you an extra $50 on you home bill, but you'll probably spend three times that for gasoline for the same month.
  19. What is the best way to remove an anchor out of the hole?
  20. Thanks....I will look for a 4-blade bit.
  21. Hey gang, Well I received my Merlin Smart-Mesh cover and hardware kit today. There are no instructions for installing this thing, however, it did come with a draft layout drawing. I think I could figure this out myself, but I would like to solicit any helpful instructions or tutorials if they are out there. The kit included a Y-strap to anchor around the diving board. I have a plug-in impact drill (Milwaukee) with several bits. Any helpful guidance will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance.
  22. I have a pool, but my next door neighbor wants to give me a free Sundance 605 spa, which is hard to resist. It has a locked-up pump motor and a rotted cabinet. The pump I can replace, but I am unsure about the cabinet. Where can I get the cabinet panels and corners? Also, does the shell sit on the cabinet for support or is there a metal frame? Also, there is a concrete slab currently under the spa. Is the spa anchored to the slab? Thanks for the info!!
  23. Again...thanks for the info. I somewhat decided on the Merlin SafeMesh cover. It does not allow light or debris, but does allow water to go through. It also has their highest warranty....15 years. I'm sure Loop-Loc and Anchor have something comparable, but it was just a coin toss for me. Hopefully, I can find a dealer close to me here in Charlotte, NC. I am confident that I can install the unit myself if I need to. My pool is 16' x 36' with 2' grecian corners (chamfered).
  24. Thanks for the info. Exactly what I needed.
  25. Well, its getting close to closing time for us folks who don't have heaters. Question, what is good hook-n-lock pool cover. I have 2 young kids and I'd like it to be able to withstand the weight. The previous pool owner just had the blue tarp with the water bags. I read that there are two types of the stretch-n-lock pool covers...one that lets in air and light and the other which lets in almost no light and air. Can anybody give some info on the pros and cons of each?
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