Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bugman1400

  1. My pool has a 1HP motor so, no start cap for me but, perhaps a start cap would be needed for higher HP motors. Perhaps Pool Clown or other folks who do this for a living would know.....otherwise, I've seen a truckload of double humped motors....just not at a pool.
  2. A hot water line many times comes out of the wall to the tank heater and then back into the wall. Usually, the line is warm enough to prevent freezing. You may also have enough heat coming through the ceiling to keep the pipes warm so, you are probably right. I may have mistaken when you mentioned in the previous post that your pipe froze but, I see now you were referencing an outside pipe. Cheers!
  3. You have only one thing to check but, you'll need a voltmeter. Check the control box relay (when it is supposed to be scheduled on) to see if it is supplying the 240VAC to the pump motor. The control box relay is the thing that you heard go 'click'. If there is not 240VAC then the relay is bad. If there is 240VAC then the motor or cap is bad.
  4. Hopefully, you are not going to install the tankless in the same spot (over the master bedroom). If you do, please post the pictures when this happens again. Which do you think has a better chance to freeze........a typical hot water tank pipe that is warm all the time or a tankless that only comes on when you need it and is cold all other times? Important to note, tankless heaters will leak......that thermal cycling is a killa!
  5. A Run cap and a Start cap are two different things but, may reside in the same can (dual cap) and share a common. I'll leave it up to you to figure out why they call it a Run cap and a Start cap.
  6. I think there are a few other items to check first, hence, my extra module. I bought a module without checking everything else first so, the new module did not fix things. I think there are several safety switches to check first. Seems like I also had an issue with a HI-TEMP LIMIT switch. Use a jumper to bypass those or visually check them to see if they are rusted out from the water. The next thing is to see if your Fenwal has an IND terminal. If it does, you should check that to ground and see if it has 24VAC during the startup. I believe the IND is the terminal that calls for the Inducer (Exhaust Fan) to come on. If you have 24VAC, then the module may be bad. Let me know what you find.
  7. Fenwall Series 05-33 HSI is what it says on the module itself. The Sta-Rite part number is 4200-0052S. It is very possible that the exhaust fan relay on the module (that supplies the F1 to F2) is toast. If you are handy with a voltmeter then, measure F1 to ground during startup to ensure that there is voltage on F1. The relay inside the Fenwal module is responsible for transferring the voltage on F1 to F2. The F2 wire is what goes to the exhaust fan and applies the full 240VAC. I'm sure what the technician did is jumper the 240VAC straight to the fan (bypassing the module relay) to see if the fan motor was working. If you have voltage on F1 then, check F2 during startup. If F2 has no voltage to ground then the relay is toast. I should also mention that when checking the F1 to ground or the F2 to ground you will get 120VAC not 240VAC. Another important note, since most pool heater live outside, it is not uncommon for contacts to get oxidation on them. I would also suggest disconnecting every quick-disconnect plug or contact and re-seating. This will promote wiping of the contact. I have an extra module if you need it. However, try everything else first.
  8. A 40 gal would be the max size for your pool house. The 5 gal sounds way too small. The tankless sounds too expensive. So, that leaves around a 15 to 30. You can find an electric 30 gal at most Lowe's. I think the 15-20 gal would be a special order. Unless you plan on using the pool and pool house year round, you can easily switch the tank off either at the breaker or with a Gray Box during Winter months. Care to share your plans on the new pool house (size, dimensions, siding type, etc.). I am also planning to build a pool house/cabana soon.
  9. Was it a Run capacitor or a Start capacitor? I would guess it is both, but apparently to cause an overheating issue it must be a "run cap" -- it is absolutely amazing: pump ran all night without stopping on the high setting with the new CAP. So I have a $20 fix to a perplexing issue, but I had to figure this out -- nowhere does anyone allude to this phenomenon -- I just figured this (change CAP) was something I could do before I called out an expert. Was there anything abnormal about the appearance of the cap? Did it look swollen or were any of the terminals burnt? Also, did you happen to test the cap with a meter or anything?
  10. My 5-way valve is starting to pour water from multiple cracks in the housing. It was patched by the previous homeowner with some type of JB Weld. Currently, it is a 75GPM valve. My question is whether or not to with a 100GPM valve or back to the original 75GPM valve. I have a LX400 heater with 2" piping, the pump is a 1HP pump, the DE filter is 48SQFT. All of the piping to and from the pool is 1.5" pipe. The pool is a vinyl 26K GALs, I have 1 skimmer w/ drain, a main drain on the bottom, a main jet by the stairs, and two smaller jets on the other side of the pool. The existing 1HP pump runs good with no leaks but, I am not above replacing too. I also have a AquaLink RS system that controls the pump, lights, heater, etc. Any suggestions?
  11. If you come across any pictures showing this, please post. I can't seem to get my head around what this would look like. Thanks.
  12. I understand the bad gauge and clogged grids......that makes sense to me and my experiences with my own DE filter. Seems like the stretched grid fabric would make the pressure drop because of the holes in the fabric. I've never seen broken ribs though.....have you?
  13. Can you explain what you mean by broken pieces of the grid? I would think torn grids would result in a severe drop in pressure. Are you saying that you've seen broken grid ribs? If so, wouldn't the broken ribs tear the grid?
  14. All of those would reduce the pressure. Normally, the filter is the main resistance in the system. Did you close any valves when you serviced the filter? Did you open them back up? Sometimes there is something else causing the high pressure. You can try removing the grid bundle out of the tank and run the system without the grids to see what the pressure is then. If it is still near 30# without the grids, the problem isn't the filter. Probably your grids need to be chemically cleaned/soaked to get the grids clean and pressure back down. How did the "skeleton" that the fabric covers look? Was it rigid? or did it feel broken, or pieces broken off inside? +1 to the master.......all hail.
  15. No, I cannot think of a reason why a pipe, when heated and under constant negative pressure, would balloon out. I do appreciate you proving my point of the negative pressure. What about the dry pump? Why would that heat up the pipe? Does the pump motor overheat or is it the boiling water that heats the pipe?
  16. Can you elaborate on why the pipe heated up and collapsed on itself instead of ballooned out?
  17. Seems to me that the solution to both the filter leak and the collapsed pipe are cheap to fix. Did you involve the HW company because you thought the whole filter system needed to be replaced? For the collapsed pipe, I would just dig down a few inches and replace with SCH 40 PVC. It looks like to me that your collapsed pipe is very thinned walled pipe and may have deformed over a period of years because of the constant negative pressure on the pump's suction side. The collapsed pipe could also reduce the flow rate.
  18. Question..... How come, in the summer, my 400K BTU heater can heat my 26K gal pool from 80 deg to 86 deg in an hour? That almost seems physically impossible according to your calcs. Perhaps there are other significant, outside influences.
  19. My guess is the regulator or gas valve. I had a gas valve doing the same thing because the gas pressure was too high. The reason the pressure was too high was because I did not have a regulator. Once I put in the regulator, the pressure was reduced and allowed the gas valve to operate correctly. I have not had an issue since.
  20. IMO, for that size pool, I wouldn't go with a heater larger than the 250K BTU that you had the link to. The heat pump units only go up to around 100K BTU and will be more expensive up front but, less expensive on the utility bill than the gas. You could get away with using a heat pump on that size pool in Texas but, it may take a day or two to heat up initially. However, I think the gas units are easier to work on and the parts are cheaper. I have a 400K BTU on a 26K gallon pool in N.C. However, I found my gas heater at a garage sale at some yuppie's house for $350. I found out about the garage sale on craigslist......hint, hint.
  21. My vinyl pool was installed with the standard 36" of concrete around the pool. Some sections of the slab now have cracks. Can I replace the concrete with a paver? How does that join up with the round bead cap? What do I do about the bronze cups for the ladder and stairs? What about the skimmer box? What about the diving board? What happens to the pool cover anchors? Anybody got any pictures for examples? Thanks!
  22. You did it right. So, the 26.33VAC tells you that the "safety chain" has no broken links. About the only thing left is the flame sensor. Did you get to that yet? Not yet, I will get to that right after lunch. Honestly, I wanted to make sure I was testing the TH condition correctly before I pulled the sensor. What am I testing for with the flame sensor? I need to sand it a bit right? Do I need to see if we have 24vac thru that item as well? Just a question, which comes first - the ignitor glow then the flame sensor "senses" the flame and tells the gas it's OK? Or does the flame sensor need to sense something from the ignitor before it (the flame sensor) allows the ignitor to glow. I don't think the flame sensor has the 24VAC control voltage. It works off a resistance value. I think the Fenwal checks the flame sensor beforehand to confirm the abscence of the flame. So, if the flame sensor has crud on it and the Fenwal thinks there is already a flame....why would it initiate another ignition sequence. Obviously, there are ways to fool the Fenwal into thinking that there is no flame, but I'm not sure if the resistance is supposed to be high or low for the abscence of flame condition. Report back your findings after the sanding. OK, I removed the flame sensor, it had what appeared to be a little rusty surface, sanded it. In the midst of getting it out, the wire pulled away from the harness to the actual flame sensor rod. So I removed the coupling, stripped back 1/4" of wire and re-attached it - good as new. Plugged it back in, started the heater and after about 10-15 seconds I heard a "poof", - crap. Shut it down and pulled the hot surface ignitor and on one side where the actual ceramic heating surface attaches to the plastic looking case - it's black (the other side is white) and appears to have blown or shorted. So, I know I will be buying a new HSI. I just hope when I attach the new HSI I don't have it blow like this one did. Kind of strange. Thoughts? If I can get my hands on a new HSI this afternoon I will and give it a whirl. Are you saying that the wires to the glow bar burned off? If the glow bar is bad it will usually have a gap it in. It is also possible that a bug, some crud, or something was on the glow bar as it started to glow and ignited.....I've seen that happen.....but the glow bar will still be good and will continue to glow.
  • Create New...