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Everything posted by Bugman1400

  1. Well, the high temp gasket sealer seemed to do the trick. After getting the 'run around' for a header gasket from the PoolCenter.com, I had to buy the gasket from Parts4heating. I put everything back together and ran the heater for a while with no leaks..........AND, the heater cranked up the first try! This is a story with a happy ending...........thanks PClown!
  2. I have the exact same LAARS LT model. I would switch the system back to pool to ensure you get the same AGS symptom. If so, then remove the front panel of the LAARS and try another restart. The things you are looking for after the exhaust fan blower starts is: 1.) Do you see the glow bar glowing orange down at the bottom? You should see it reflect off the chrome burner pan. 2.) Do you hear the distinct click of the gas valve after the glow bar is orange for a few seonds? If you answer yes to both of these, then gas does not seem to be getting close enough to the glow bar to ignite. Sometimes there are spiderwebs that build up on a few jets and does not allow the gas to flow through that specific jet. Also, it is claimed by some that even though the glow bar glows orange, that it may not be quite hot enough to ignite the gas. Check on #1 and #2 and report back.
  3. That actually sounds like a good idea. My idea was to double up on some of the OEM gaskets. I guess I can also use a straight edge and figure out how much void space I'll have to fill. I'll let you know how it turns out.
  4. Silver solder (5-10%) has a really high melting point. A simple butane (blue tank) torch will not melt it but, MAPP gas (yellow tank) will. Since the burner flame is not directly on the tubes I wouldn't expect the silver to melt. However, I may have bigger problems. Upon closer inspection of the headers, they appear to have suffered some heat damage. I'm open to suggestions.
  5. That is what I thought. Is it okay to use warped tubes? I tried to test the tubes by standing them on one end with one header on the bottom and filling up the tubes with water and waiting a while to see if the water leaked out. The water did leak out of half the tubes on the right. However, I think the gasket between the tubes and the bottom header is leaking. I have ordered two new gaskets and will try the test again. I supposed if I have a small leak, I can just use some silver solder and fill a pin hole or two. Your thoughts?
  6. I think when I posted initially, I thought the bottom of the Bypass valve was part of the header. However, I see from some of the part stores that the replacement comes with the part that screws into the black header. So, I think the header itself is okay. Although, I plan to replace both gaskets. Your thoughts on the bent tubes?
  7. I don't need the whole header but, there is a piece missing off the part that holds the By-pass valve. What do you think? And the tubes......
  8. The saga continues........... I fired up the heater the other day the first time since I thought it "healed itself". The heater started up and I heard the gas valve click and then heard the whoosh of the typical flame. A few seconds later, the heater started to pop and dance around and sounded really scary. I turned the heater off and then tried it again after a few minutes........same thing. Since I knew there was something drastically wrong, I decided to take apart the heat exchanger. What I saw was....... the By-pass assembly between the HOT and COLD sides was shreaded. The spring and cup was in pieces. This explains why I was getting curved pieces of metal in my pool that I couldn't figure out where they were coming from. So, my best guess is that the water that was coming in from the filter in the COLD side was going right back out the HOT side without passing through the heat exchanger. So, the tubes were very hot from the flame and would get a splash of water every so often and flash to steam causing a severe hammer effect and the subsequent popping and dancing I observed. I am not sure if any of the tubes are ruptured. Some of them are bent but, they seem to be built fairly stout. In order to test the integrity of the tubes, I decided to remove the heat exchanger and stand it up on its end. I kept one header attached. I then filled up the tubes to the top with water and will wait to see if any of the water leaks out. If it doesn't, I plan to reuse the tubes. Also, I noticed a broken piece on the header/manifold that holds the By-pass assembly. Hopefully, I won't have to buy a whole new heater. Any place that sells this part the cheapest? Or anybody have a spare R0326900 ZZOD5658 Front Header, w/ Hardware / Gaskets that will fit the LAARS LT400?
  9. Two stage blower? I don't think so! I've had this conversation before with others. Typically with 240VAC motors, only one leg is switched. So, you will have one leg hot all the time. I believe that the F1 & F2 terminal on the Fenwal are for the switched leg. The way to prove this is to put one lead of your voltmeter to ground and test F1 & F2 (i forget which one is hot all the time). You should get 110VAC. Then, figure out where the other leg of the motor goes to......usually L1 or L2 of the incoming power. Then, use the voltmeter to test between F1/F2 and the L1/L2 terminal. You should get the 240VAC. Basically, the Fenwal has a switch between F1 & F2. When the switch is closed, F1 & F2 will read the same voltage (the voltage difference between F1 & F2 will be zero) and will supply the full 240VAC to the blower. This switch is only closed after the Fenwal is satisfied that all the safety switches are closed. You can use a jumper to jump out the safety switches. The first one I would start with is the one down by the burners. Then, I would move to the HI LIMIT switch on the outside by the header. I've had the HI LIMIT switch rust out on me and I recently, had the burner switch trip when I had my "ut oh" a few weeks ago. Hope this helps.
  10. Your motor leads to the capacitor may be coming loose or have oxidation building up. With the power off and waiting a half hour or so to let the cap bleed off, use a set of pliers to pull the wires off the capacitor and reseat them. If the wire terminal seems loose then, squeeze the wire terminal a little with the pliers so that the wire terminal will fit snuggly over the cap terminal. Let us know what happens.
  11. Isn't the blower 240 VAC? What voltage does it say on the motor nameplate? Before you do anything else, check your safety switches for continuity.
  12. I went to repair the leak today and discovered that the heater healed itself. I'm not sure I understand but, with the pool pump ON and the heater OFF there are no leaks anymore. Perhaps, it will start leaking when the heater is ON but, for now, I'll leave it alone.
  13. I installed my own heater. I think it helps you figure out problems in the future if you really know your heater.......and yes, you will have problems in the future.
  14. Sounds like the screen is torn. I didn't know you could put DE in a sand filter.
  15. I believe the heater is from the 2006 to 2008 time frame (I bought it used). Could I have a tube split or do you think that maybe the seal to the header is now distorted?
  16. You didn't say how small your children are. If they are under 4 then, you can take the same precautions that others do like buy a pool and gate alarm. If they are 3 to 4 and older, it will only take one summer to teach them how to swim. After the summer is over, they will be able to swim better than you and the apprehension of the kids around water when you are not there will subside greatly. If they fall in, they will be able to swim to the side with no problem. Also, I bought a pool cover for the winter. It is expensive but, well worth the money. It is made to take the weight of a person......or two. I think putting bricks in will damage the pool and will be a hassle...........especially when its possible that by the time you finish the kids could be great swimmers.
  17. I usually pride myself on being a heater guy but, I had an ut-oh yesterday. I had the heater running fine and in the process of heating the pool when I found out that my HVAC unit to my house quit blowing air. Turns out the squirrel fan fell off the motor shaft but, in the process of shutting off the power to my HVAC unit to fix the fan, I shut off the power to the pool pump instead. It took me about 10-15 seconds to realize my mistake and I quickly turned it back on again. I then noticed that the exhaust grill on the LAARS LT was heavily warped and there was water leaking out of the bottom. I assume that I've cracked or done something to the heat exchanger tubes. The burner assembly seems to still work fine. Any suggestions as to the extent of the damage and cost? Mucho thanks!
  18. I assume your pool is larger that 2000 gallons. It is possible that you need the 400K BTUs simply because the water temp in your part of the country maybe lower than the Southern US. It also matters how fast you want your pool to heat up. For example, I have a 26,000 gallon pool and also have a LAARS LT400N. I can heat my pool up from 50 degress to a balmy 88 degrees overnight. If I had a 250K BTU heater, it may take a few days. And, for a 120K BTU heat pump, it would take a week or more. Hope this helps.
  19. I agree with Scott. I had the exact same issue. A few passes with a piece of sandpaper over the flame sensor and I have not had trouble since.
  20. I had the exact same problem a few years ago when I installed my LAARS 400 without a local regulator. I was depending on the main regulator at the meter. It seems the gas valve has a pressure sensitive diaphragm in it that can detect gas pressures that are too high/too low and it will not allow the gas to flow. Once I installed a local regulator, it worked the first time. Just because you smell gas, doesn't mean you are getting adequate flow. The gas may flow initially but, then the gas valve may stop the flow because the pressure is too high/too low. Then the ignitor will time out after 5 sec if the flame sensor does not sense ignition. Another trick I tried in my dryer repair days was to blow hard on the burner after you hear the gas valve click. You could also try using a steel or brass brush to clean the burners.
  21. Do you have a bypass around the heater? Got a picture of your system?
  22. I haven't experienced that. I've replaced hundreds of the HSI glow bars when I worked on gas dryers for a living. For me, typically, they either worked or didn't. You could tell they were broke by the air gap in the ceramic bar material. I have seen occasions where the glow bar would glow, the gas valve would click, and there would be no ignition. The cause of this was typically the gas not flowing close enough to the glowbar as a result of a dirty burner or the glowbar wasn't in the correct position. What is the typical reason that the glow bar doesn't get hot enough in pool heaters? Does the material breakdown or is it a wiring issue?
  23. PC, can you see the surface ignitor on these things like you can on the LAARS? Typically, for my LAARS, the sequence order I check for is: 1.) Hear the exhaust blower 2.) See the surface ignitor glow orange. 3.) Listen for the click of the gas valve. If I hear the click of the gas valve and get no flame....I get ready to run.
  24. The reason why motors hum is because they don't know the words. If the motor turns freely then your caps are toast. Luckily, they are cheap! Your HVAC connection will be able to get you one off his truck. There is also the possibility that it is not the cap itself but, the wire to the cap instead. You can re-terminate the wire and you'll be good to go.
  25. 1. There is no automation on the equipment at all. 2. Heater was manufactured 2004 3. I get that the bezels are different SKU's but they use the same wiring harness so in theroy they should be interchangeable shouldn't they? The limit switches do not affect the temperature regulation. I have the same LAARS model and have both of the bezels. They are interchangeable. Obviously, you should keep the plain one for backup.....I don't trust the LCD display to last forever. If you still have the same issue when you switch the controls then get another temp sensor.
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