Bugman1400
-
Posts
218 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Bugman1400
-
-
If you see the glowing ignitor then you need to listen for the audible click of the gas valve. If you don't hear the click then you need to test for the ~24VAC on the gas valve leads. The ~24VAC will only be there for a few seconds during the cycle. If you have the ~24VAC then, you may need a gas valve. If you do hear the click and still no flame then, you need to vent your gas line. My gas line is black pipe which is known to rust on the inside from moisture in the line. I typically loosen my union or my drip leg and let it vent. Obviously, you don't want to be smoking or near an open flame when doing this. I think this process may also reset your gas valve and regulator. If you don't have a regulator next to your heater then, you need one for sure!
-
It could be the contactor in the automation panel that is connected to the motor. Typically you can measure 24V at the contactor on the coil side to ensure that the automation is applying voltage to the contactor. Then measure 240V on the line (source) side and nothing on the load (motor) side.
-
I think we're gonna need to see pictures of the liner area that is suspect.
-
Did you say that you replaced this part "Next were points 6 & 7 (lopress fuse link). 6 had no volts (orange wire) but 7 did (blue wire)."
For diagnostics, most folks use a set of jumpers to detect a defective sensor. You can bypass all the safety switches to see if one of them is the culprit.
I don't think the HSI uses 24V, I think it is typically 120VAC or 240VAC...so, be careful with that one. Usually, you can see the HSI glow. If it does, its good. If see a gap in the middle of it, it is bad.
-
It appears that you have located the correct wires. However, before you replace the sensors, remove the wires and reseat them to scrape of any corrosion that may be preventing an accurate signal to the controller. If you still get the error code, then try using a jumper to bypass one sensor at a time. This will allow you figure out which one is the culprit. It will also indicate that the problem is with the sensor and not in the wiring or controller.
Good Luck!
-
You may have to use a net to get the big stuff and a vacuum to get the smaller items. You can use your Waste valve and skimmer to run the vacuum but, the debris will go through your pump. Fortunately, you can skip your DE filter.
-
Please post pictures.
-
You can buy a multiport valve with the backwash option in it. Then, you just have to provide a way to dispose of the water. Typically, it is routed to the same place as you do to drain the pool.
With my own DE filter, when I get to around 25psi, I backwash. After that, the pressure drops back down to the normal 15psi. I can do this a few times before I have to breakdown the filter and hose off the grids. It is important to note that when you backwash a DE filter, the DE is removed and goes out with the water. So, you have to replace what is removed.
-
I agree with rkovelman that pH also needs to be monitored. However, instead of liquid chlorine, I would use the pucks. They contain the CYA that you need, however, they also lower the pH dramatically. So, buy some Soda Ash if you buy the pucks and keep an eye on the pH as well. Again, try the Green Away first and follow its directions. If you have a robot cleaner (like a Dolphin), I would use it in conjunction with the main filter. Its like having two filters and does great for removing algae off of vinyl liners. Make sure you clean it every day too.
-
That is an old style disconnect and fairly common. I don't think you can get it anymore. Try replacing the entire unit with a newer version.
-
In addition to the pressure switch, there is also the HI Limit switches that are on that same housing. Check to see that you didn't pull a wire off or one of the switch terminals.
-
OK...I've seen this at the hotel Jacuzzi. My kids would slam their hands over the underwater jets to see how high they could get the water to shoot out of the snorkel. Perhaps the cover can be removed from the jet to allow the blockage to pass through into the pool.
-
What kind of filter do you have?
Try using Green Out. Follow directions. Backwash or hose out your filter every day after two days of Green Away. You need to get the algae off the filter and keep it off.
Continue to test twice a day and add Chlorine.
-
Do you have a wiring diagram for this unit? Do you know how to read it? Are you electrically inclined?
What is the Model#?
Is your surface ignitor (HSI) glowing when you hear the click?
Also, how far away is the gas regulator?
In general, it is best to get to know your pool heater. You WILL have problems with it in the future and the more you know about it, the faster you can resolve the issues.
-
May need to add a couple of check valves. Perhaps you could dig down to see if there are already some.
-
Are you referring to the liquid type (like household bleach), granules, or pucks?
-
What city and State are you in? Heat pumps up North are pointless. Gas heat is more responsive and typically heats the pool much faster as is usually easier to work on.
-
There are other methods for removing a main drain clog but, if you're not handy, a plumber will be your safest bet. Please report your findings.
-
Your own pictures seem to correlate the response by Merlin. I've had a Merlin cover for 6 years and it looks the same as when it arrived. I would recommend them to anyone looking for a quality cover. I did my homework 6 years ago because I wanted to find the best cover. I had many folks recommend Merlin. They also listed several other manufacturers that provide a similar quality product. I liked Merlin because the fabric was purported to keep out the sun to prevent algae growth while allowing rain water and air exchange and it does just that. Every Memorial Day when I remove the cover, my pool looks just like it did when I covered it in late September. However, in reading this case, I think Merlin could have, at least, discounted a new cover further than the 10% to promote customer service. I actually think a free pool cover by Merlin would have been much cheaper than the negative publicity but, my guess is that Merlin has these kind of pool owners looking for them to bail the customer out because of the customer's failed chemistry practices.
-
I typically pride myself in being a LAARS pool heater expert on this forum but, this problem has me stumped. My symptoms include:
1.) Exhaust fan comes on but, HSI does not.
2.) I never hear the gas valve click.
3.) HSI shows continuity w/ 70 ohms and does appear to have any breaks. I believe this is a 240VAC ignitor.
4.) The L1 & L2 wires into the FENWAL 05-332161-103 have 240VAC between them and 120VAC to ground for both.
5.) The IGN/240 and IGN terminals on the FENWAL show low/no voltage between them and low/no voltage to ground during the cycle period.
6.) The flame sensor wire seemed very questionable and is now broken (due to yours truly).
Questions:
1.) I know the flame sensor is critical after the flame is established but, does the FENWAL check for it first before it activates the HSI? If so, is there a way to fake the signal?
2.) God help anyone trying to find a 05-33 replacement. It seems the 05-33 is the old analog type and has been replaced by the 05-66. However, the FENWAL conversion guide dated Feb. 11,2003 indicates that the replacement for my FENWAL 05-332161-103 is the 35-662534-113 which seems to be very ellusive to find. Does anyone know where I can find a decent replacement without the +$300 price tag that I've seen most places?
3.) Any additional tests that I can try other than to see how flat it gets after I run over it?
Many thanks!
UPDATE: I was able to reattach the wire to the flame sensor but, can't be sure if its truly fixed. I still get nothing from the HSI. Is there any other ways to bench test the FENWAL module?
-
It appears that the light will work with your setup since it has the fingers on the outside ring that catch the edge of your niche. You basically just push it in until it seats.
-
How about with a set of needle-nosed pliers?
-
The sensors are in the inlet/outlet housing underneath the 2 inch pipes. They are typically covered by a small stainless steel plate. You will see the white wires for them leave the housing and go into the heater cabinet. It is explained above. There is also another safety switch down by the burner assemble that looks like a resistor. It is supposed to detect if you have a flame roll-out but, sometimes this switch goes bad and becomes an open circuit. Most of these safety switches can be bypassed with a set of alligator jumpers as a method of diagnosis only. Do not leave any of the safety switches bypassed for obvious reasons!
-
Does the fan come on? If not, perhaps you should use a jumper to see which safety switch is bad.
lp to natural gas replacement kit
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
Can you elaborate why you think the propane goes halfway? What observations or test values make you think this? Are you measuring the pressure? How have you tested that the valve works or not?