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wuice

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About wuice

  • Birthday 07/20/1978

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    Eureka

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  1. That was not my original video, I just found it doing a youtube search, but you are right, it seems like the author has now made it private Sorry edit: looks like this company has the same old video on their facebook page, second video down as of right now.
  2. Steve Those readings on the temp sensor and hi limit sensor should be pretty close together. According to my chart a good sensor at 28 c should be about 26,400 ohms. That temp sensor looks pretty close, but that hi limit looks way off. I would change both of them out if it were my tub, but for sure the hi limit looks bad. When a board is bad and causing watchdog you can usually visually inspect the capacitors near the center of the board and tell they are swollen and slightly bulging. Ignore the blown fuse for now unless it keeps happening. Cheers Amos
  3. Wuice, are you still around here? I have drained my tub for the summer and plan to replace the barb now that its empty. [i did put stuff around it this winter and it nearly stopped it from leaking.] Is this the piece I need? 1 spigot by 3/4 barb pvc 1432-131 This is a 1" Spigot (glues into a socket or fitting) by 3/4" barb fitting. It is also a 3/4" slip socket (3/4 pvc pipe glues into it) by 3/4" barb fitting. It is located o this page: http://flexpvc.com/c...ers-Slip-Spigot Looks like you are all over it 1432-131 is the part number on that page you linked, remember to get pvc primer and pvc glue. (according to your first two pictures) you will be cutting the pipe to the right of the hose clamps you put on. Since you are cutting a little out, your new fitting will glue on to the right on the white pvc line, if there is no extra slack in the line you may need to replace the 6-8" of the braided hose to the left with something just a little longer, usually there's enough slack, but ive cussed once or twice when there isn't. An even halfway decent hardware store will have all the materials you need (including that grey fitting)
  4. It's pretty uncommon, but the fitting behind the wall sounds like it has come dislodged and is spinning free. The fitting is just foamed in place from the factory and usually stays put, but I have had a couple that "break" free and spin while trying to unthread the temp sensor. You will most likely have to remove that side and dig a little foam out to get to the part....easy on some, not so easy on others. You may be able to pull it while unthreading and use the friction against the fiberglass wall to "hold" it, but then run the risk of it falling when you do finally get it out and not be able to thread in a new one.
  5. It is important to know if the temperature reading on the topside is accurate, if you are getting a reading that is higher than the actual water temperature you are looking at a temperature sensor again. (you will need a thermometer for this, don't go off a "hand" test). Sundance has recently (last 6ish months) changed the manufacturer of their temp sensors, i threw away all of our old ones as soon as they supplied the new style. I thought you mentioned the tub was still in warranty, if so have the local dealership come out and fix it. It's hard to help without a clear, accurate description of exactly what's happening. (year and model also help)
  6. To defend them a little bit. One of my main hobbies is computer building and repair, I have about 10 people i have built computers for in the few years, and many for myself. Many of the the "top" brands in power supplies and motherboards suffered from the exact same problem (asus and abit boards i have personally replaced with this problem). Not to mention the piece of trash dells and hps. I highly doubt that sundance had much control or say over where the capacitors came from for the board they were having manufactured for them (although i bet they do now). After all that's gotta be a reason there's a wikipedia entry focused on the subject.
  7. I think there's some confusion afoot here. The tub will come back on when power is restored, the board has a battery backup and an onboard time chip so it will remember temperature, time, and any filtration settings you had programmed into it (true on the entire 800 series). There are malfunctions that can cause a watchdog error to appear, and when you call a dealership the first words outa their mouths are gonna be to turn the power off for 5 minutes and then back on. In a tub that has a malfunctioning part, they will often revert back to watchdog within seconds. Also it is true that a tub in watchdog needs to have the power shut off to it to "reset" the watchdog, it's not an error that will go away on it's own. Lemme know if that's not clear, writing this late and reading it back to myself is a little hard to follow Ohh and as a side note, that's my favorite tub sundance makes (do you know a year?)
  8. To me that seems like a very quick way to clog your filters. The directions the their website make it sound like you bypass the filter (remove it), and wipe as much as you can out of the empty spa before letting it cure and harden.
  9. I would start by checking the equipment area to be 100% sure it's nothing in there. The jets back then were all pvc, so yes they are going to be glued in. For older tubs in hard to service installs, we recommend a product called fix a leak, you are supposed to keep water in the tub and running to "push" the product through the small gaps/leaks. We have seen pretty good success with this product, it only works well on pressure side leaks.(aka jets) I have a couple customers that even just reapply every couple years when they notice the water again. If you want to actually repair the jets you would have to flip the tub on it's side, there's no proper way to fix it in place. If you do attempt to flip it and replace those jets make sure you start the whole thing by adding a leak detection dye to the water so you can be sure of the leak location. We generally do not recommend these repairs as they are considered a major undertaking and usually are not worth the labor cost. The other part I should mention is sometimes a person can actually create more leaks by getting in there and moving around brittle glue joins and removing foam that had been holding plumbing on the verge of leaking.
  10. The filter duration is HH:MM, there are no seconds involved in the sundance topsides. The factory default filtering is two hours per day, at 12:00, 6:00, 12:00, 6:00 for half an hour each. If you have a circulation pump, the ozone runs independent of the filtration times. And yes if it's an ozone unit older than 4-5 years you can assume it makes little to no ozone
  11. 1988 is pretty old, but for at least the last 15 years Sundance has been using the standard of: white as a common, black as low speed, red as high speed
  12. While i agree it generally is very easy to beat a local dealers price on parts priced over ~20 bucks. Little broken knobs/jet faces/divertor handles are imo where local dealers excel. Being able to walk in with a broken knob and have them appear from the back 45 seconds later with the exact part and tell you if the parts under might need to be replaced, maybe even show you on a floor model how to replace it, is well worth the 15-20% more you might pay on the $9.99 item. That's the feeling i get from almost every customer that walks into our store with a "little broken plastic doohickey". My 2¢
  13. You nailed it, if you find someone who is good at that kinda stuff it's pretty easy part to find/replace, just remember it's easy to heat damage some of the components near there. As a business we always recommend replace the whole board, but in a couple friends tubs that i can see the bad capacitors i've had great luck just replacing them. We have a local electronics store that's kinda like radio shack used to be, like they keep many sizes capacitors in stock. There's no way to guess a components life, there are just too many environmental factors; temp, moisture, water chemistry, electrical quality, etc. Pumps often you can hear going out (getting louder, slower starting), but not always.
  14. As you have explained things here you are suffering from two separate issues, one causing the gfci to trip and one causing watchdog. They will not be caused by the same components. Sounds like you did the right thing by isolating the cause of the gfci tripping (primary jet pump). To investigate the watchdog you obviously need that gfci to stay on. Rebooting the board will clear an existing watchdog. (leave the power off for over a minute, then back on) Sometimes watchdogs are a fluke, and once properly reset never come back (weird power issues that cause the electronics of the circuit board to hiccup and trigger a watchdog, once it's been set it won't come out without a good power down) Assuming watchdog keeps coming back, keep reading. <cut and paste from a post last month> I do have a pretty fast/simple diagnostic you can perform that could tell you most likely what the problem is. Sometimes this take two people (one at the breaker, one at the spa display) since the watchdog can come up very fast. Turn the tub off for over a minute (this lets the circuit board power completely down) When turned back on we are looking for what the display shows before it goes to ----, if it displays a very high temp >104 (or a rapidly climbing temperature) , we can be pretty sure you need a temp sensor replaced, a cheap part and very easy to replace. If this checks out to be true the follow up post here will pertain exactly to your spa (part numbers i gave are the same and everything) If it doesn't act like that, the next step would be to visually inspect the capacitors on the circuit board, lots of capacitors supplied in electronics in the early 2000's suffer from capacitor plague, visually you can see it with "swollen" capacitors. (actually it looks exactly like the picture on the wikipedia page labeled "bulging capacitors", and your capacitors will be side by side also) The tops of your capacitors should be perfectly flat. Those are the two most common failed parts I see that cause an errant watchdog, however it can be caused by other parts. Dirty filter/low flo conditions can cause it but should show you other errors before kicking to watchdog, like FLO or OH. Feel free to follow up if you have more questions <edit> heh, looks like you responded while i was in a long winded post. all those little tiny hoses going from pump to pump (1/4" clear guys) are part of the freeze protection built in since its very hard to remove all the water from the pump heads anyways. But i would for sure put the sides back on to at least "cover" the plumbing
  15. A barb won't go into the white schd40 flex pvc very well, he added those clamps not knowing there is no barb inside that pipe. He needs to pvc glue a new (grey 3/4" pvc female slip to 3/4" id barb) fitting on the white pvc, to get that "fresh from the factory" feeling.
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