CountThis

Thanks arches2 for the response! New blowers in the mail, so hopefully eveything works out.

I recently acquired a 2003 Sundance Cameo. The spa was missing a few parts including the blower assembly. Unfortunately the owner has passed away so I am on my own when it comes to getting new parts and putting the spa back together. From my research I have found that the original blower seems to be no longer made but can be replaced by a Max Air Blower. original blower http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/9800-623sundancespasairblowerassembly220240vac.aspx New Max Air Blower http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/maxairblower1hp220240volt24amps-1.aspx Here comes the problem: When I look in the spa cabinet I see a 1.5" ID pipe at the bottom of the cabinet and two 5/8" ID flex pipes at the top of the cabinet. I was initially assuming the blower hooked up to the bottom large pipe and then used an air manifold to hook up to the two top flex pipes. The problem is that the new blower only appears to have one 2" outlet pipe. So now I basically have no idea how the blower hooks up, what the 1.5" ID pipe goes to, and what the two 5/8" ID flex pipes go to. Of course I also can't find any pictures inside any sundance spa cabinets or any plumbing diagram. I have attached a link to a picture of the situation below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/100485604/Blower%20Photo.JPG Thanks!

Thanks for the info!! My biggest attraction to bromine is that I can use a floater in the spa to keep the bromine up.

I have been using chlorine for the last 6 months or so in my hot tube. It works great when I actually add chlorine, but I have been having allot of trouble remembering to add the chlorine every few days. I decided to switch over to bromine since it sounds like weekly or bi-weekly maintenance is all that is needed. Can someone give me a run down on how to start and care for a bromine hot tub (kind of like Nitro's water maintenance post)? My hot tub is 350 gallons. Also, I have a Taylor K2006 kit. What do I need to get to be able to test bromine levels (and whatever else I need to maintain a bromine system)? Thanks!!

Thanks for the response Nitro & Paul. FC is down to 10ppm, so I'll just wait another day. Nitro, yup it's dichlor I'm using and yup the package really does say 1oz will make 2 ppm fc in 500 gallons. Guess someone did their math wrong :-) So how much does it take to increase FC in 350 gallons of H2O? Thanks!

Well, I accidentally let my chlorine level drop to zero for probably about 12 - 24 hours. I then proceeded to add too much Chlorine and brought the FC up to about 21ppm (the bottle saide 1oz brings to FC up 2ppm in 400 gallons... I guess not since I only added 1.5oz and I have a 350 gallon tub). Should I be doing anything else other than waiting for the FC to come down? Thanks!

Yup, that did it. Turned counter-clockwise and pulled. They pop right out! Thanks!

Hillbilly, I looked down at the bottom of the filter houseing and there is the main hole which the filter screws into and then there are holes lower down at the base of the housing which I assume are the pass throughs you are talking about. While I can't tell if they are sucking down water while the filter is on low I can tell you that the center hole is sucking like mad! Nitro, I checked my CD. I was only able to get my hands on the tub for 21 hours before my wife insisted she needed to get in it, so this is what I found: Hour Zero: I added chlorine and immediatly checked the FC (which was 9) and the CC (which was about 1.75). After 23 Hours I checked again and FC was 4.5 and the CC was still about 1.75. So CD is 50%. I'm still having a crazy foaming problem though. Actually it has gotten way worse. And the cause I think is this stuff called "Enzyme" from Leisure Times. I had added some of their "Bright & Clear" and it said to add some enzyme a few days later to get rid of the ring created around the spa wall. While I did not see any ring I added some Enzyme anyways. Well fast forward 1 day and holly smokes is there alot of foam..... great... so I added some de-foamer.... stupid enzyme crap.

Thank you for the response Roger: With tremendous effort I am able to turn them all the way clockwise, but that does not actually pop them out. After the few that I have removed (and broken in the process) I found there to be a slot that extends from the ring outwards but it is narrower than the tab on the jets, so the jet does not actually pop out. The only thing I can surmise is that the narrow slot is to make it less difficult to pull the jets out, but pulling is really still required. Am I right on this, or am I still missing something? Thanks!

I have a 2004 Marquis 530Z hot tub. I bought the hot tub used and I am trying to remove some of the jets to clean them (they are extremely hard to turn). I was able to remove one of the jets by turning clockwise completely, gripping under the lip of the outer/top ring and then pulling out. The next 2 that I tried the same trick on did not come out so easily. When I pulled out the outer/top ring broke off the inner body leaving the lower stem still attached to the hot tub jet fitting. I then had to use two nails to disengage the little tabs that ride in the ring in the hot tub itself while I pulled out with a pair of pliers. So my question is this: How do I get these jets out without breaking them. I would really like to pull all of them out to clean them all. The manual says the jets are HK 12 and HK 16 jets... couldn't find a picture of them online. THanks in advance for any ideas.

Nitro, The decontamination went well. No longer had the issue of chlorine lasting only a few hours. I can easily not add chlorine for 2 days or so if we don't use the tub and be well above 1ppm once I go to add some. It looks like I am headed for a complete water change. I'll let you know the CD once I get the tub up and running again. (my wife's going to pitch a fit about the hot tub being out of comission again!) Hillbilly, My wife and I use the hot tub almost every night. If you get a chance to check out the filter system I thank you in advance! If I up the filter cycles per day or length of each cycle and switch to the dichlor/ bleach method are my problems probably going to be a thing of the past? Question for all: Why don't they (as in the product makers and every hot tub dealer I have ever talked to in person) tell you you're going to blow your CYA level way up using dichlor?

I have a 2004 Marquis 530Z Sierra hot tub. I'm not sure if I have a filter bypass valve. You can find a copy of the user manual with the equipment diagram on doc pg 25 at this link: http://www.marquisspas.com/pressroom/docum...omplete_EHT.pdf I did not see any indication of a filter bypass though. How would I know that I had one or that it was broken? I believe I have my filter cycle set to 2 times a day for 1 hour. It also filters for 1 hour after each use as well. One other observation that could honestly be in my head: It kind of feals/ looks like the water is being aerated alot more than it used to. As in when I turn off the jets there is a ton of little bubbles in the water which eventually disipate leaving the water clear looking. But untill they disipate the water is completly opaque. Like I said this could really just be my imagination. Maybe it has always been like that. My spa does not have any controls for adjusting the air to water ratio of the jets.

No, this is a used tub. I'm the guy who was having the chlorine lvl problem and ended up doing a full decontamination in a previous post. Can I just empty 80% of the water like the pool calculator suggests to get the CYA down or should I empty the whole thing? No, I have not used anything other than Dichlor. But I do use some of that gental spa stuff.

O yeah, one last additon... I've never shocked the tub. I have a pack of renew but never used it.

O yeah, the water in the tub is only about 6 weeks old.