RobertGary1

I just did the same replacement for my tub and now it's working well paid about $30 on eBay. There is also a version that let's you set an ad hoc time(ie run for an hour).

I have an early 90's 220v large ps-3 supra electric. If we're in it for more than an hour or so with jets on high the heat will shut off and the spa will cool down. If I just leave the next evening it's back to 104F from the filtration cycle and it's running hot again. The heat breaker is not tripped. I can generally tell what temp the spa thinks it's at by spinning the temp control and listening for when it clicks indicating its below the current temp. When this problem happens it acts as though it thinks it's at proper temp. This year I replaces the timer (timer motor stopped) and last year I replaced the heater element. Otherwise everything works great 99% of the time. The heat otherwise runs nice and hot now. I'm wondering if the thermostat could be dying and perhaps it's not as sensitive. -Robert

I find the best way to drain the spa after the hose bib gets all the higher water out is to just use a shop vac. Its also how I clean the spa. A spa dealer recommended this after I got frustrated with the gadgets I had bought to get dirt out of the bottom. My shop vac (which I already had) has worked great.

I have a circa 1990 Cal Spa. Occasionally the heat cut out switch will trip. The water does not appear to be too hot and I've hosed off the filter. Looking at the diagraph there appears to be two seperate parts involved here. There is the actual electric cut out switch and there is a flow meter that goes inline after the heater. If I have to replace one of these parts which is more likely to be the cause, the cut out itself or the flow switch that feeds it? Is there a way I can diagnose it? I've found that getting Cal Spa parts can be very hard. Cal Spa themselves is not interested in helping and their dealers support you for the "life of the spa" which Cal Spa defines as 8 years. -Robert