otis_skywalker

yes, that is right... no neutral to the spa.

Yeah the colored leds work fine, better than the colored lens for sure... I'd bet you'd find that the Jacuzzi one is brighter amd better quality.

Replace the temp sensor... that will take care of it.

Where are you at? I am in Northern Minnesota so if your close enough. I have built a couple. Roger, What did you use to build your own dollys? I have built one out of wood that has worked great. I'm currently working on a new one made with 1 3/4" square tube, 1/8 thick. After I purchased the steel I realized that it might not be strong enough and needs additional pieces down the full length (my original design was just a rectangle). I have also made a very simple jack type device that can lower a spa off of it's side (like the spa wedge). Great when you have a large spa and one or two people to lower it. I actualy used propane tank trailers that are modified to carry a tub. Straps hold the tub up off the ground supported by the trailer. Ratchets lower the tub to the ground on its side. Lay the straps on the ground next to the tub and tip it up onto the straps. Back the trailer into the tub and hook up the straps. Ratchet it up off the ground and secure it. Hook up and drive away. Still a 2 man job. Hey Roger, You got a picture of this rig you could share?

either way is fine.

Refer to the diagram on the side of the pump... but there should only be 2 terminals in that pump.

The code is FL1 not F1 right? Is there a clear 3/8 line going to a barb on the front of pump 2? If so... that line might need a restrictor in it to cut the flow down. clamp that line with pair of lock pliers and see if it stops the FL1 error. That line is supposed to draw water through that pump so it don't get cold. but, It could be the problem. If the FL1 stops with the pliers deal, restrict that flow down to like an 1/8 inch or under.

the heater return line tees off after the flow sw. 1 side goes to the water fall and one to the heat/ozone jet in the bottom of the tub... my guess is that line to the heat/ozone jet is kinked or clogged, that jet has the curvy screen on the bottom of the spa, pop that guy off and see if it's clogged with leaves or something. If not that line has to have a kink in it somewhere. Your repair guy should have no problem fixing it... and your warranty is way longer that one year.

I can do it for you also... if you want to post it.

if the water temo is not actually 112 degrees, its the temp sensor.

no modes on that model... there is a jumper on the board to change the filter cylces from 5 hr to 2 hr, and it cycles every 12 hours.

plumbing repairs are fun... huh? The balboa pack they use in there is pretty reliable, the heaters suck though. you could test the heater for continuity to see if its good... a 4hp 2 spd deal would work, Might make the jets a little weaker. I would find a rebuild shop to take your original pump to and get it rebuilt, probally cost about 100 bucks for bearings, seals, labor ect... those heaters are cheap about 150, or you can replace just element cheaper. I'd get it to hold water first myself, before I spent the money on a new pack.

replace it, and it should be fine.

The heater had to of been dry fired... some how, some way. When that flashing flo is on the screen you should not get any voltage to the heater across the red and black going to the heater. Did you put the hi limit sensor back in the heater thermo well also? a possible explaination could be, the flow switch is bad (stuck closed).. The main pump was not primed or air locked... circ pump was dead as stated, the pc board reads the flow as ok and closes the heater relays and dry fires the heater. either way, replace the circ pump and dont hook up the heater unless your sure there is good water flow and the flow switch is ok.

Read the brand name on the transformer, if it's a "excellant" (not sure exact name, but something like excellance?), it's the transformer.

You need a circ pump... thats your problem.

It is a Viking Extreme and to the best of my knowledge of reading the serial number and the test sheet attached to the spa controller, it was manufactured in early 2002. It's close to its 7th birthday. I must say the previous owner treated it poorly for at least the past 18 months based on info I obtained from a mutual friend. I've had to strip the entire cabinet and will make a new one if I can stop the leaks and repair or replace the pump. Isn't the 3/4 line flexible? If I cut it are there unions that can be affixed to it like normal PVC? I'll know more this afternon when I start cutting away the foam around the manifolds. I found a source for 2lb closed cell online, but does anyone know a good source for finding it locally at a decent price? Spa/Pool repair businesses or Big Box hardware chains? *bump* for how to on couping the flexible hose that I now have exposed on my spa. 2" is just sched. 40 pvc. use 2" couplings, unions if you want... On the 3/4 clear. What I do is, cut the barbs off on the manifolds right at the end of the hose, heat the 3/4 lines up one at a time with a heat gun and work the old barbs out with a pair of needle nose pliers. you could use 3/4 barb/barb fittings to extend those lines if needed. the 3/4 was glued originaly, but I put spring clamps on my repairs so that next time a customer lets it freeze it's easier to repair.

both those manifolds are probally cracked. you'll have to cut the line out and see... the 3/4 line is glued to the manifold ports also. what year and model is it?

Usally those Vikings freeze and crack on the main line on the left hand side around to the back, Last one I did cost about 350.00 parts and labor. there was 3 manifolds, 1 check valve and about 6ft or line that I had to replace. Although, don't be surprised to pay more....That foam they use is like chipping away at concrete. It's a P.I.T.A, and takes forever...

sounds like you got stuck heater relay on the circuit board. put the new heater in, Dont connect the power leads to the heater... check the flow switch with an ohm meter, should be open when circ pump is off and have continuity when the pump is running. test for voltage where the heater connects, turn the temp down so the spa is not calling for heat... if there is 240 still, the heater relay is fused closed and circuit board needs repaired/replaced.

Stainless steel covers on the jets are for looks only and if they don't use a good grade of SS you'll wish you only had plastic a year or so later. To me a blower is pretty much useless while being loud (hmm maybe that could be a use when my wife wants to replay her day to me one detail at a time) and they also cool down the water which can be a problem though some like them for that reason during the summer. In the end it’s not as if they're a detriment so I personally wouldn't care either way. I agree.. "(hmm maybe that could be a use when my wife wants to replay her day to me one detail at a time)" I really agree...

Fl1 indicates a flow issue with the circ pump. is there water pressure coming out of the heat return jet? If not, I'd bet the circ pump is bad... is it really hot to the touch?

pull the handles off, unscrew the caps, grap the valves witha pair of pliers and pull straight out, sand them down with some sand paper to remove the burrs... don't loose the orings!

Did you replace the circ pump? Sounds like you might have the pressure and suction reversed... maybe..

I have a few years experience in both Sundance, Hotsprings and Infinity k/b, I can tell you that you will get a long lasting product from sundance spas, or hotsprings. Infinity is out of bussiness for reason, I've seen those spas delivered missing parts, screws ran through plumbing lines, spa packs set up wrong from the factory, jet wall fittings loose and leaking, shells blistering in 2 years... ect... And I have seen my fair share of sundance/hot spring issues also.. But, Not even in the same ballpark. And every one of those issues were resolved to the customers satifaction. how good is your warranty today? The number of jets don't mean much when they are useless. 45 jets means that I bought 12 that I'm going to actually enjoy, and 33 that I can say "Oh, my hot tub got way more jets than yours". It's sales hype. And all those HP numbers on the pumps are straight B.S. That Chelsea uses a 2.5 hp pump that will outperform that 6hp pump all day long. Why? Because, you bought 33 useless jets in an inefficiently plumbed spa. It's not really an apples to apples thing here, it's like a Lexus GS to a Kia Rio with 20" rims and 7000 watt stereo. If your happy with your Kia, Cool... drive it untill the wheels fall off.