tricializ

Well, darkness came and we turned the lights on and even without the lens cover, the lights worked. So I am going to replace the lens covers as they are all so yellowed. But, I am wondering how to do so without getting water inside. It doens’t Seem to matter with the one where water was in there, but....

Hi all. I have been fixing various components of my 14 year old pool which has the P2000 Pentair fiberstars lighting. Actually got it to light up again but replacing bulbs and ballast kit, but noticed that one of the broadcast lenses in the deep end is missing and someone put a return jet over the hole instead of the light. Since all the electrical components are located outside the pool, I’m wondering if this is a big deal to replace as well as would like to replace the other lenses in the pool with new lens covers as these are old and yellowed. Do I need to drain it? The fiber optics were definitely exposed to water in the one light being open. Any thoughts on how to do this or if it’s fried due to water is appreciated.

The directions said 1/4 oz per 500 gallons, run then test. Repeat if necessary. This took several hours and ended up with me having to use the ENTIRE bottle (big bottle) of this stuff to finally bring it down. I know my well water has high pH but I was ready to just give up and buy some muriatic acid. Glad to see it finally get balanced. Tricia

I am back clear again. Yay. Went back to the pool and spa store and got another bottle of Metal Gone. Said I probably needed even more. And to wait 24 hours before putting any chlorine in. By the time I went to put it in, it was already getting less yellow. I think putting the chlorine in while the spa was closed reacted more than it might have otherwise and opening it up and running it for a while seemed to help. Hopefully it will stay that way now. Tricia

New hot tub delivered yesterday. We are on a well but filtered the water going in with a carbon filter. Water was lovely last night. The tech added metal gone early in the day. So, after being in it last night, I put a small amount of chlorine/shock (dichlor I think) in per my instructions. This morning, the water is yellow. Not cloudy; just pee/yellow. I know it's reacting to the metal gone as with my old hot tub I had instant green water when I added the two together. Doh! But I thought after 8+ hours, I could add the chlorine. So, my husband will be home tonight and I would love for there to be nice clean water. What do I add now or am I toast? Thanks. Tricia P.S. How long after metal gone do you have to wait to add chlorine?

Thanks for the advice and info. Sort of frustrating. I would have liked to know what the actual temp was in the spa. I suppose I can also buy a portable temp gauge too. Easier than trying to rig up the tub when I know nothing technical. LOL Thanks for the info. I won't make myself crazy anymore. LOL Tricia That is standard setup for HotSpring sps. I believe that a jumper change can show actual water temp. A HotSpring expert can verify.

Fortunately, ours is about 4 feet from the door. It's on a patio off the basement and it is close. Still, I hate the period of getting out. Tricia

I just got our new Hot Springs Vista spa today. Yay! But, I set the temperature and then they tell me that a green light will light up (the ready light) when it is within 2 degrees of the temperature set. (something like that). But, what I find odd is that the display doesn't tell me what the actual temperature is. So, as it was heating up today, I had no idea if it was 60 or 90 (other than feeling it). Went in it a little while ago and it was semi-cold. The kids liked it but I was a bit cold. But I had no way of knowing how cold I was. LOL Is there a setting I can do where it will actually display the current temp? Thanks. Tricia