Chas

I have Marquis as a competitor, here on the 'other' coast, and I find them to be a well-built tub. The customers I meet who come into our store for supplies and things are generally only walking in my door because we are closer, not because they have any disagreement or dissatisfaction with their dealer. If I ask them why they chose them over us, it's usually something about size, shape, color, a smokin' hot deal on a floor model, leftover, or something like that, inferring that our products seemed similar in quality to them. Of course I'm going to say that I think HotSpring is FAR better, but what else would I say? I know the company was owned by it's employees, I don't know it that is still true (I have not heard about any changes, but so many things can change in a down economy), but I respect that in any company of this type. Aside from that, be sure your dealer has come to your home to see what sounds to me like a difficult delivery. It makes things go so much smoother if all parties have all the information - sliding a large spa under an arch is no fun without the right equipment and number of people. You might consider having a couple of extra strong people on hand on the delivery day, whether they end up helping or not. Also, what a nice surprise it is for any dealer to have the path completely cleared of patio furniture, trash cans, dirt and debris, low limbs, firewood, breakable lawn art, and so on! It generally takes about twice as much room as you think it will to make turns, so having an extra-wide path clear is awesome. I don't know if this is what you were looking for, I'm sure others will chime in - HTH

He told me "once you fill a spa, it becomes a used spa and is unsellable" Not even close to true.

Another happy hot tub owner! Welcome to "Spatopia." May you soak long and prosper. If we can be of help as you learn the 'care and feeding' of your new tub, let us know. And post some pictures!!

The pig is right: it may be the shaft seal. You should run the pump and see if water is being flung from the motor shaft area between the pump and the motor. If so, you need to tear it all down and put a new seal and all new o-rings. Consider a 'wet end' replacement: gives you all new parts. If you are sure it's not leaking at the seal, try the o-ring. You can certainly replace the volute o-ring in some spas very easily. It depends on whether or not there is room to work. For the cost of an oring and the time it takes, I would try. I have often had orings leak after sitting dry for some time - some will reseat and be fine with time and temperature (small minority) others will need replacing. Still others will leak even after the new o-ring is in place because the plastic pump housing has warped. The only answer is a wet-end replacement.

Welcome to Spatopia - I'm sure waiting for delivery and set up will be hard! I wondered about your statement: "They have the best service out of anyone in CO." Just curious, have you tried every other dealer in CO? I bet my friends at IHT would disagree :lol: (polite teasing here). I don't know if you are anywhere near there, but if you need anything (doesn't sound like you will, but you never know...) they are at: International Hot Tub 1035 Zuni Street Denver, CA "IHTSPAS.com" Enjoy your "new" tub!!

That could be a weak breaker - there is no time when the breaker gets more current flow for a longer period of time than at the first start-up from cold. As they age, then tend to get weaker. (Don't we all).

There is a very slim possibility that the heater relay board is bad. It usually does NOT do what you have described, but when they go, they can sometimes burn a trace which will kill the spa. But, before we go there, here's what I would do if it were mine: I would replace the GFI with a regular power plug($10 or less at the hardware store) just as a troubleshooting tool. You don't have to get a 20A, a 15A will fit. If that brings everything back on line, then replace the GFI. Some newer digital meters will show a voltage when it's really just a trace leakage. In fact, when I see a higher voltage, like your 125, instead of 115 or 110, then I suspect a meter which is like me: quiet, not always right, but far too sensitive. Try that as soon as the rain stops, and let us know. If that doesn't do it, I would remove the heater relay board and check the back of it for a burned trace or solder joint next. That is far less expensive than a whole IQ-2020/control head combo. Let's keep our fingers crossed! HTH

The flashing Ready light tells us that the control thermistor is bad. Since you replaced that already, the next option is the control panel. It interacts with the thermistor. But it's pricey so you may want to invest the $24 or so for another thermistor, or at the very least, check the thermistor with a good ohm meter. I don't remember the numbers, but the two thermistors should be very close to the same with the circ pump running and the heater off. The Control panel PN is: 71836 - and it will have two jet pump buttons. Don't worry, it will work on your single jet pump tub, it's the only one they offer now. Fits: Bengal (M 181001 to M 4B9999) 1998-2000 Looks like this: Costs like this: $395 Wow! I would most CERTAINLY try another sensor, or spend some time with a meter before I ordered that one! HTH

This is one of most unusual posts I have seen, not counting the duplicate post on the other web board... But assuming this is for real, I would say that you should start by making sure the unit is well insulated. Then - as to the heat source, you are the best judge of what is available: some sort of bottled gas seems like the cheapest, but if you will not be moving it around, natural gas piped in would be good. If you ARE going to move it around, and use it for commercial service, you will want to look into health and safety codes for the various areas you will be setting up to be sure it is legal and safe. Here in the US, if you put a tub into any type of commercial service it has to have a lot of special construction features, such as equal-sized stairs, handrails, marking at depth changes, depth markers, lighting, filtration which is NSF approved, chlorine injection, and emergency shut-downs. There are more, but those are the main ones. As to bubbles: if you are going with blowers only, be aware that it cools the water very fast, so you will need to allow for a huge heating system if you want the unit to be able to bubble AND stay warm at the same time. HTH

I would say deja vu, but I feel as if somebody already has...

Then the warranty will not transfer.

Good to hear! (you hoser)

Wow, you have done a lot of the troubleshooting! Good job. I saw the other thread, and it looks like you have the electrical sorted. If there is no flow from the floor drain - where water should be returning from the heater - yet the little bleed hole in the filter compartment IS flowing, and the heater is boiling and then tripping the hi-limit (as evidenced by the red light flashing) then you have only one option left: there is a plug in the line between the heater and the return fitting on the base of the tub. This could be nothing more than a heavy build-up of slime, or 'biofilm.' I have only seen this in two or three tubs in three decades of doing this, but they were all running Baqua Spa, or had never put in chlorine. The line in question is around 14 feet long - it makes a gentle loop around the foot area of the spa to allow ozone more contact time with the water before entering the bather area at the bottom. This tube is this long even if you don't have ozone - they put it in just in case. I have snaked them out with an electrician's snake - fiberglass, NOT metal. To do so, I take the tube from the outlet of the heater loose at the wall fitting, and cap it or plug it. Some water should start flowing out of the fitting in the wall of the motor compartment (some models have a short length of PVC flex), but if the line is plugged badly, it will not flow very much. In some cases I put a short length of vinyl tube on the fitting so the water comes out where it is easier to work with, other spas it's not bad right where it is. But feed the snake in and slowly work it back and forth, and if you begin to see slime coming out with the water, you have not only found the problem for sure, but you are clearing it. Keep at it until you have nothing but water rushing out, and you should be good to go. If you only get a tiny amount of stuff coming out and the water flow doesn't increase dramatically, you can put a small piece of clot in the end of the snake - sort of like a cleaning pad for a gun barrel - and it will clear more of the film. HTH

Most of my customers report 4 or 5 years if they rotate with one extra filter. I would look into what plugged up your filter so soon. If it's just life in the hot tub, (heavy use, and a lot of fun and games...) then maybe you should pick up five again for the next go-around! But if you can reduce the amount of oil, lotions, fragrances, soap and other contaminants going into the tub you should be able to go longer with the next set of filter.

I love ozone on a chlorine spa. Arches2 is correct in that you don't NEED it, but it is one of the few add-ons which I really like: on the right tub it puts ozone into the water 24-7 and that drastically reduces the amount of chlorine you need. Combined with a Nature2 stick and MPS ("Shock:) you can soak chlorine-free, with a once-a-month chlorine shock to keep things just right. For $100 (less in many cases) it's not a bad option. You should have a continuous circulation pump, and a tub which is designed to receive a unit: those tubs will have an outlet to plug in the power cord and a place in the plumbing to put the injector. They will also have some way to extend the exposure between the ozone and the spa water to minimize off-gassing. The OP is asking about his 5-year-old Sundance which had a unit, so it would be a safe assumption that all of those items are in place.

I would stick with Corona Discharge - and yes, you should be able to replace it with another brand. I am a Del dealer, and I think they offer international voltages. You can find them on line in various places - perhaps even a local dealer may exist, Canada IS advancing, slowly, in that regard... :lol: ...seriously, be sure to order the type of unit you need for your local power. This one is less than $75 in the US - HTH

I know we sound picky, but you really should call the factory and double check. I agree with Dan, above: Watkins will not transfer a warranty, and according to them, your spa is going to continue the warranty on the first tub. It would be great if you could get the warranty for the new owner, but I don't think it will work that way, so sorry. However, I would be glad to be wrong, so call the factory - 1-800-999-4688 (Customer Service) HTH

That would be a PWA board, PN 70821 - And yes, it is discontinued. I have two on my shelf, and many other HS dealers most likely do as well. $300 give or take, and that is a good used board. You may also be able to send it to a place like 'Horizon Spa Parts' in AZ and have them repair it - they do work on all types of boards - should cost less. I would also do a Google search to see if anyone has a new one on the shelf - These are all options to keep that spa running! It is very rare that those boards go bad, sorry to hear yours did. HTH

No charge.

Yes, very much so. If the water can't get through the filter, the heater will heat up and trip the high limit - or it will not close the pressure switch and the heater will simply stay off. But it's easy to test: simply take the cap off the of the filter with the hollow grey tube. The one you put the Silver Ion cartridge into. Turn the breakers off and back on again to reboot and reset the heater. First - if the filter doesn't float, then it's plugged with oils or something similar. If it floats, let the tub run like that and see if it heats up. If so, you have found your problem. If not, you should call your dealer. HTH

How can it have a full warranty, unless you are a dealer?

I replace mine every five to seven years. They just don't go much longer than that, and when they begin to fail, they do just what you describe.

Here in CA we also get four seasons. It's just that three of them are summer. rhtubs.com

I haven't worked on these myself, and somebody who has will hopefully come along. But, silicone would be a temporary fix. That's not a bad thing: you can use it to find out if you have pinpointed the leak. It's a cheap, easy way to see if you have found all the leaks so when you do go for a more permanent fix you will only have to do it once. HTH

I say 2 to 4 years. I do recommend the 5-filter rotation which you are doing, it really seems to add life to the filters. Also, if you get one filter which just doesn't seem to want to come clean, toss it and get a single new filter. HTH