Chas
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Everything posted by Chas
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Technichlor (After-Market Salt Water Chlorine Generator)
Chas replied to Mark SC's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Funny!! :D :D :lol: -
Softub (Assuming 220 Series) To Hot
Chas replied to Unsophisticated's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Sounds like two problems! Bummer. The thermostat is available from any of the spa part on line retailers - you should take the old one out and get all the specs - the length of the capillary and the size of the capillary. Other than that they are all very much alike. As to the motor humming and shutting off - if the thing got that hot it might be just the thermal overload. You may have to drain out some water and add some tap water to cool things off quickly, but the motor may be so hot (keep in mind that the jet pump is the source of heat in your tub: it is wrapped with a heat exchanger so if the tub got to 115 can you imagine how hot the motor got?) that it will take overnight to really cool off. BUT - the fact that it is tripping breakers does not give me much hope for an easy fix, sorry. Good news (sorta): you have to take the motor unit apart to replace either the thermostat, or motor, or both. HTH -
I have a Jetsetter on my floor for sale, used. I sold it to it's previous owner and moved it a couple of times along the way. He traded up to a larger tub. The Jetsetter is like new - runs flawlessly, looks good, and is 25 years old.
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By "Paid Bloggers," do you mean posters here? I surely don't make a dime off my time spent here, and I am not aware of anyone else doing so. In fact it costs. I'm very sure that smart manufacturers have folks who are paid to keep an eye on the web boards, and I have gotten a call or email from the Mother Ship a few times when I have posted an error, or when somebody is upset at something I have said or done. But please - show us a list of 'paid bloggers?' If you are talking about people who do write actual Blogs, then I would say that any shopper needs to know who owns the site they are viewing. Of course www.HotSpring.com is going to post information telling you why you should own one of their tubs. But at no point do they try to lead you to believe it is some form of third-party opinion, with the obvious exception of the energy tests they have had done, which are third party. I was a zealot when I first came to these boards - it didn't make sense to me for people to buy anything but the brands I had to offer. I still love the tubs I sell, and consider them to be awesome tubs for people to buy! But as I have matured a bit - *cough cough* - I have come to realize that a good dealer can make even a bad tub workable, and enjoyable. I would never buy a tub at a road show that promises me several brands but then brings tubs and other items which all come from the same maker - to me that is dishonest. Say it's done by dealers and not by Master? Fine. A HotSpring dealer would do that once - exactly once - and they would find themselves looking for another brand to rep.
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One trick which may help is to go out and run the jets for a few minutes before you get in. Lid closed, push the button for the jets and give them a couple of minutes - do this a good ten mintues before you enter the tub so the heater can catch the tub up to 104. It will assure that all the water, in every part of the tub and it's plumbing, is at the max temp. It can buy you some time because there is no cold - or even slightly cooler - water lurking anywhere in the system, including the equipment compartment. Other tricks include shutting off air to any jet you are not sitting in front of, folding the cover over only half way, and being sure you have blocked any cold wind/breeze from the area to minimize heat loss. With a 15a system you only have a 1000 watt heater, and it can't run at the same time as the jets - so some folks give up the jets altogether in cold weather. HTH
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I can't tell you how often that happens!
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Glad to hear you are enjoying your tub! Thanks for the report. I used to sell Jacuzzi tubs - over fifteen years ago - and they were massive energy hogs. They looked better than the HotSpring tubs I had on the floor next to them - in my opinion and the opinion of many of our customers! But they just didn't have the insulation, nor a small circ pump, and the covers were thin, cheap things which didn't last as long and the ones on our HS tubs. The huge jets and high-volume, low-pressure jet systems on the Jacuzzi tubs showed very well on the sales floor, and generally were real people-pleasers in the home as well, but the Moto Massage still sold more tubs for those who wet tested. There are features on both brands which appealed to different buyers, and we always got glowing reports back from customers - no matter which brand they had purchased - except for the energy use on the big Jacuzzi tubs... Of course today, Jacuzzi tubs are much better insulated! And as you mentioned, they have improved the quality of the covers a vast amount. It all matters! You'll get great enjoyment out of your tub - take care of it, and let us know if there are questions which arise out of the care and feeding, though you have had it a year now and must have worked out those details by now...
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Softub (Assuming 220 Series) To Hot
Chas replied to Unsophisticated's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
That has a mechanical thermostat, which can fail with age. (can't we all?) When one of those units does go bad, it turns into a simple switch: on and it will run forever, off and it will never come on - all regardless of the water temperature. Easy to check - find and mark the place on the temp dial where the thing clicks on and off. Then shut off power and let the water cool. A lot. Then power it back up and see if the place the click happens is still at the same place on the dial - or if it has moved down the scale a bit. Same place = bad T-Stat. HTH -
When you ran the pump on the bench, did you check the amp rating against the label on the motor? It could be drawing too much current, and that would blow the fuse. Fuses do sometimes go bad with age - they are carefully designed to blow at a lower amp flow as they age rather than blowing at a higher (more dangerous) amp flow. I would replace that bad fuse, and see if the motor comes back to life - that is, AFTER I had run the motor on the bench to check it's amp draw. When you replace the fuse, be very sure it is with a "Slo-blo" type of fuse. Check with the precious owner to see if it has been replaced before: it is common for DIY to replace with a regular fuse, but that type of motor has a large in-rush of current when you start it, and the fuse has to allow for that, but then safely blow if the pump continues to draw too much current. HTH
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The Caldera is better insulated - look in the motor compartment to see the difference. The Caldera has a longer warranty. Most Caldera models come with Ozone standard - check with your dealer to be sure about this. The Limelight tubs are "ozone ready." As I'm sure you know, both come from Watkins MFG (the "HotSpring Portable Spa" makers). HTH
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I saw the new heater when I first started searching my problem. I think you have to decide before getting a heater in the future if needed that you will have to decide then if you want 110 or 230 (I thought that was 220 but I checked my paper ) We dont want to make that choice yet, we are still thinking of changing it over. The new heater resets with powering down for a min or two... is that not what I did by unplugging when the water was cold and plugging it back in on my old heater? Yes - if the tub senses that the water exiting the heater is too hot it shuts down, and to reset you do simply unplug. However, the new heater has that system AND a further system which shuts off just the heater (not the whole tub) if the heater gets too hot. That system is "PDR." I am not sure you can easily convert your tub to 220 - it may need some re-wiring. For one thing, the heater outlet on the control box is different. I don't remember if the heater relay is two-pole, but if it is not, you will have to replace it with one that is. Then, you have to run a second circuit to the tub (30A two wire, GFI protected) to run just the heater - and that circuit would have to be wired into the heater relay. I think that HS actually puts in two relays so the heater can safely shut down even if one of them sticks on. Try it on 110 first, they really do work quite well...
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I think that is the seal cup. It is a copper cup which goes in behind the seal - inside the very bowels of the pump - and helps to dissipate heat if the pump is run dry or with only a small amount of water going through. You can check - put some of the pieces into ketchup or salsa. Let them soak a few hours, and pull them out and wash them. If they look like copper - it is because they are! You can run the pump for years without that heat sink - as long as you don't let it run dry. If the seal does begin to leak, you will want to rebuild or replace the pump. Watch it closely, because as was posted above, if the seal leaks, it tends to flood the motor and damage the bearing, if not the whole motor. If you do choose to rebuild the pump, the new seal plate eliminates the copper piece, and comes with a new seal design which is much better. It looks like it is leaking, or has leaked in the past. That 'foot' had to be rusted away by something, and the pump shows a 'calcium beard' which is a trail left behind by leaking tub water. Watch it as you run the jets and see if anything is getting wet around the dish rack. Your heater has been discontinued - as well as the housing. If that fails, you can very easily replace it with a new heater which is the same design as they put into the brand new spas. Same temp probes go right in, and it has a PDR feature which resets by simply shutting down the power for a minute or two. HTH
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Down To 2 Choices Maybe 3 Buying Limitations...help Please!
Chas replied to coachtjm's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
You will love it. Welcome to Spatopia, although the hardest part of your ownership experience is just ahead: waiting for the tub to be delivered. -
Down To 2 Choices Maybe 3 Buying Limitations...help Please!
Chas replied to coachtjm's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Spa Guru: excellent suggestion about the service technicians. About Watkins Manufacturing and the heaters: This recall applies to just a limited number heaters in tubs which are already out in the field. We have done everything we can to contact the customers and replace them all - I have replaced all 6 of mine - but because we cannot get in touch with 100% of the list, we have informed the CPSC. There is NO WAY you can buy a spa with a bad heater unless you purchase it used from a private party, and the serial numbers are very easy to check against the list on the government web site, or call the factory and read them the serial number and they will immediately tell you if that used tub needs a new heater, or post here, or email me, or call me! And none of these heaters went into a Caldera. In fact, they also didn't go into Tiger River Spas (discontinued), nor Hot Spot tubs. -
U-Bend Pvc To Create Continuous Flow In Spa
Chas replied to decadude's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Wow - if that's what you want to do, I would think a pair of 90 elbows and a few short lengths of PVC pipe would be far cheaper than 'spa flex.' -
There are no dumb questions when it comes to taking care of your new tub - ask away! And welcome to spatopia - may you soak long and prosper.
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Change Default Temp Of Spa After Power Outage?
Chas replied to swimmerman's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
There it is! -
Dave - I hope nothing I wrote was construed as saying there was anything wrong with buying used. I sell used tubs! I was trying to put down some things to make it end up a better experience - things like seeing your spa filled and running, and buying from somebody who has a location you could go to and ask for something to be done if it turns out not to be what they represented it to be. You did what I recommended, and have had a good experience.
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Ready Light Flashing On Tiger River Bengal
Chas replied to 94heritage's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Your spa has two pumps. One runs the jets - only - and is loud. It also only comes on when you turn on the jets. The other is a very small - almost silent - little circulation pump. If your spa is running on 110volt (plug in) then it will NOT heat when the jets are on. You need to know if the smaller pump is moving water - you can see a very slight movement in the water when everything is very still if it is working. Also, you can check the vinyl tubing in the motor compartment. If you see any bubbles, it is not working, and if you see absolutely nothing at all in the vinyl lines, it is working fine. -
As a dealer, I have sold many used tubs. People expect a warranty of some sort when buying from a dealer, so I go through them completely before they go on sale. I personally do not sell very many tubs which are not from the brand I rep, so I have access to all the parts and information I need to easily get them into shape. They may be on my showroom floor all shined up, but they might also be on a dusty shelf in my warehouse when the people decide to buy them, so I always set them up - hot and running - before we deliver them. That way, the customer can come and see the tub in action before it shows up at their home. Only one or two have ever climbed into the tub, hot and wet, but I always offer. (I usually require a 50% deposit before I will fill and heat a used tub to be sure they are serious and I don't waste time and money dusting it off, hooking it up, filling it up and heating it up, but the wet test helps me as much as them: I am then sure that everything is in working order before delivery, and the whole process helps to calm fears on the part of the buyer. As a side note, it also generates some excitement when they stop by and I lift the lid on crystal clear, hot water. And even more so when I hit the jet button... So I wanted to offer a PSA of sorts: if you are buying used from a dealer, ask for this. If they are not willing, you may want to consider some other source. Or, if you are really set on that tub from that place, pay a repair guy to go with you to have a look at the tub. Having a customer walk in with his own independent repair person is an amazing way to communicate that you are serious about buying, and serious about making sure the tub is exactly as it is being presented. And it might just save you a ton of money if the tub in question isn't going to give you good service for a long long time. Next, I want to address buying from a private party. You will be completely alone once you pick up the tub. All alone. So, I would NEVER buy a used tub which you have not seen full and running. And hot. In just a few minutes, you can see if all functions are working correctly, see if the thing is capable of heating and holding heat, see if the jets are all working, diverter valves turning, air valves and other adjustment items working, etc. Can the jets be interchanged? Then do so, please. What if you show up to the house and there simply is no power connection available? Ask them why. If there is any indication that the tub was hooked up but isn't now - for instance, conduit sitting in a pile, the sign of a box removed from the wall, or even an empty space in the electrical panel - find out exactly why on earth they chose to disconnect prior to trying to sell. If the tub is in a storage container or self-store place, I would make a kind offer: they can deliver the tub to your home, hook it up there, (even temp is fine) and do the wet test there. If it works, you will pay them, if not, not. From there they will have x number of days to retrieve the spa if water comes flooding out, or the motors scream or the heater doesn't work. Most people will, of course, refuse - but think about it: that risk is exactly the risk they are asking YOU to take! Nothing will tell you more about how sure they are that the tub is in the kind of condition they are telling you it is in. An alternative would be to pay them half what they are asking, and invite them to come collect the rest at your home once the tub is up and running, assuming that "it runs perfectly" as they are promising. These crazy situations are happening more and more here in So Cal as the economy puts the squeeze on people, but you need to have some agreement that if the tub turns out to be junk they will have either just sold it to you for 50% off, or you can pay the bill for the repair out of the balance. Finally, what about free tubs? We all see them in Craigslist, and I even get phone calls asking if I want to come and pick up a spa. Yes, I do have the nerve to ask them if I can see it up and running before I take it away, free. And no, I will not come get it for free if it is old enough to have wood siding, or hasn't been running in years. Sorry. And I don't think you should either. This is not snobbery, but if you can't afford to buy one, you most likely can't afford to fix one up. It may end up sitting in your yard for years. There is no free lunch here: you are not going to get a $10,000 hot tub for $50 and a case of beer. Here are some generic prices, and I would invite other dealers to chime in about these costs. You will need a new cover on most of these free-bees. - $400. You will need to pay a mover - trust me, it is money well spent - $400. You will need to pay an electrician or handyman to connect it up - $400 - 1000. Some tubs may need a sub-panel or GFCI breakers - $125 each... I'll add more when I have the time, and I would invite others who have gone down this road to post.
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Need Help With Tubing/plumbing Diagram
Chas replied to Londonmommy's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Yes, those diagrams are available. But a big question here is this: are the plumbing lines cut, or is the equipment simply out of the tub? Big difference. That tub has a two-way valve at the top of the motor compartment, generally referred to as a 'diverter valve.' The output of the pump goes into the bottom of that, and from there all the lines leave the compartment to go to various jets or groups of jets. Parts are readily available. If we are talking about redoing all that, then it's a bit of a job. I have replaced very few of those valves, but I have done them and lived... If we are talking about just putting the equipment back in and hooking it all up, it's no biggy - the pump has two unions, and then the heating system is vinyl tubing. You just need to find which of the two connections goes to the suction side of the small pump and which goes to the outlet of the heater. The worst part of this is that I had a 1995 Sov on my showroom floor (for sale, used) for the better part of a year. It came in at the end of last Summer and just didn't get much attention. I could easily have snapped some pictures, but I sold it! In fact I just delivered it this past Friday morning. They say timing is everything in life. A picture would help us help you... I have access to the plumbing diagrams, but I have to update some software to get them on this computer. I'll have to do that late in the day when I am thinking more clearly... -
Yeah, I didn't say it would HELP to mention my name...
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You could call - ask for Andrew. He's around her a lot with the screen name "Dr. Spa." They have a pretty good on line order form - but you can call and see if they have a template for your Manistee. Mention my name
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Down To 2 Choices Maybe 3 Buying Limitations...help Please!
Chas replied to coachtjm's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
I think others will vouch for me in saying that I do not bash other brands: to me the dealer can make owning almost any tub a good experience. Cal Spa is the one exception. I have seen dealers struggle to try and keep customers happy while the factory seems to go out of it's way to make it tough. They are an amazing marketing machine, but so many of the things which SELL a spa (esp. at a show) do not translate into a good long-term ownership experience. We have even had some Cal dealers on various web boards who have sold the product for years - and acted as a successful cushion between the factory and the consumer - who finally got tired of having to work so hard to keep their customers happy, and moved on to rep other products. I did warranty work for Cal a long time ago, and I had to build up a good sweat trying to get parts and then later, I would have to repeat the performance trying to get paid. I was not a dealer, so I expected to get paid, but they didn't like doing that. They did need a lot of work done, and I was the only one in the area still willing to talk to them or touch their spas. (they had a factory store in our area at the time). End rant - HTH -
Change Default Temp Of Spa After Power Outage?
Chas replied to swimmerman's topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Wow - what a hassle! That is one of those things nobody even thinks to ask in advance. Many tubs will return to the user settings after power interruptions, I would pursue changing the control box. It would be nice if somebody with more Balboa experience (factory included) could offer some suggestions on another box with this very basic feature... Failing in that, you could have an electrician wire in a trip box - a simple relay with a single button on it which would shut off and stay off in the case of a power interruption. I have wired these for people living in remote locations (in my cases it was to ease the surge or "inrush" when the power came backs, since HotSpring tubs do restart with user settings in place) but it was easy enough. In one case I was able to mount a simple warning light so the owner could tell the unit had tripped, but coming home to a bunch of blinking clocks tells you it's time to go restart the tub! It works like this: the power holds the relay closed and the tub works as it was designed. When the power stops, the relay drops and then stays open until you come out and push the button to close it again. At that time you reset the temp you want, and the tub will be a few degrees cooler, not on it's way to 100! HTH