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Nitro

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Everything posted by Nitro

  1. Here are a couple different ones. Spa Pilot discussed here and Nexa Spa. IMHO, I'd choose the Nexa Spa, because it has a higher output. The higher output the better, because you don't need to keep as high salt levels. I think additions of Chlorine and/or MPS are still needed during/after use, but the Generator will keep the FC constant when not in use. It's debatable whether the higher salt levels cause corrosion in hot tubs. I don't believe they do. The salt levels are only 1500-3500 ppm which is much lower than sea water etc. I read where if your tub isn't grounded properly the metal will get corroded. However, if your tub isn't grounded properly, corroded metal parts are the least of your worries.
  2. Yes, that's the other problem I see with ozonators. It's hard to tell if they're working. Although, you should be able to smell it just after opening the tub.
  3. The problem is, Ozone is not a very good insurance policy, because it doesn't sanitize (i.e. kill pathogens). Nature 2 is a better insurance policy because it acts a sanitizer. However, a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWCG) is an even better insurance policy, because it will keep FC constant when the tub is not in use. That's where I'd spend my money.
  4. Dichlor contains CYA which reduces the effect of Chlorine. The ideal amount of CYA to have in your tub is 20-30 ppm. So if you use Dichlor for a week or so, to raise CYA, you can safely switch to using bleach with no problems. However, if you just use Bleach with no CYA in the tub (on a continuous basis), it will be too strong. Read my links below for more info.
  5. I should have known, you're trying to sell something, which makes me question what you say even more. You're going to have a tough sell on this board, because it's full of experts who have heard it all. But feel free to state your pitch. I'm interested in hearing it.
  6. What makes you think a Bromine Generator (which creates Bromine) will have a different smell than Bromine Pucks (which release Bromine)? Second, if you're worried that the manufacture will void your warranty if you use Liquid Chlorine, don't be. Using Dichlor (i.e. granulated chlorine with stablizer (CYA)) in your spa will not void the warranty. Therefore if you add 20-30 ppm CYA to the tub before using Liquid Chlorine (i.e. bleach) it's perfectly safe for your tub, and nobody would know you weren't using Dichlor.
  7. Nitro

    Mps

    I'm with Vermonter. Why the concern about MPS levels? If it's high just stop adding it. It will just stay in the tub until it's used up.
  8. The only time you would need to measure MPS is if you're using the Nature 2 system without Chlorine. In that case you need MPS in the tub at all times. If you're using Chlorine, as long as Chlorine is above zero you're ok. Then you can use MPS to help out with oxidation during/after high bather loads, and/or to lower CD and CC. As Vermonter said, a (bi)weekly dose can't hurt.
  9. Forget trying to set pH directly. Instead you need to adjust TA to the level at which pH stays stable. Read my links below for more info. If your pH is stable in range, your TA should be good for now. Just keep an eye on pH and adjust TA as needed.
  10. Wh said it was difficult? Just keep on eye on pH.
  11. The better question is, which is better a 110 Volt (15 amp plug in) or a 220 Volt (50 amp) spa. A 110 Volt spa won't be able to heat the water with the jets running. A 110 Volt spa won't have as much air/water movement. Also, a 110 Volt is less efficient than a 220 Volt. However, a 220 volt spa needs to be specially wired with a deticated breaker.
  12. This is when you fine tune TA to keep pH stable. Try not to over swing too much. The least amount of acid/base you add to the tub, the longer the water will last.
  13. Don't add ph Up, add Baking Soda to raise TA slightly. Add 2 tsp BK, which will raise TA ~5 ppm in 350 Gal tub. Then areate for 30 mins and check pH.
  14. Wow, that's a lot less HP than I thought. Thanks for the info.
  15. There is no particular correct range for TA, so don't bother trying to get it there. Your TA should be at WHATEVER level it needs to be to keep pH in range (7.6-7.8). That means if you pH is low, you need to raise TA (with baking soda) to keep pH higher. If pH is too high (the norm), you need to lower TA (with acid) to keep pH lower. And if pH is stable, don't touch TA. Bottom line, adjust TA (with baking soda and/or acid) so that pH is stable between 7.6-7.8.
  16. I'm not sure on the amount. You can try a pint first, let run for 15 mins and check FC. Keep adding pints until FC is 8ppm, then go ahead and soak. 5 ppm FC is a little low for the Max FC to soak with. I've soaked with much higher levels with no il effects, at least not yet. LOL I'd say 10 ppm FC is a more realistic max to soak.
  17. You can use Hydrogen Peroxide to lower Chlorine. However, I find the best way to lower Chlorine is to just soak in the tub.
  18. Oh I knew I forgot to put one thing in there...yes my CYA is about 25ppm...maybe I should bring it up?? It's fine anywhere bettween 20-30 ppm. It doesn't have to be exact No! If you raise your TA to 80 ppm, your pH will shoot up (>8.0) If your pH is stable now, leave TA alone.
  19. To raise pH without raising TA, you can turn on all the jets/air and let run for 30 mins. Read my link below about Lowering TA.
  20. Just FYI, you could have done the same thing with just bleach (no MPS). You just would have had to add more bleach (3-4 cups, a super shock). I suggest MPS in addition bleach, because it really helps out the oxidation process. I still want to make the point, don't be afraid to use too much Chlorine. Check out my link below about Chlorine Demand (CD). You should never let your Idle CD get too much above 50%. If you keep CD low, you'll have a lot less problems.
  21. It's not difficult at all. Just raise CYA until you can't see the black dot at 30 ppm. Simple! I wouldn't bother doing a refill unless you do a full one. I'd just wait a month, and do a full refill before the winter. Just my opinion, but it's up to you.
  22. Great! Sounds like you're off to a good start. Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
  23. Not sure what your problem is. Sounds like you tub is acting normal i.e. Using Chlorine. You need to add Chlorine after every use. Otherwise it will drop to zero, which would be bad. My advice is for you to read my links below.
  24. Depends on how long you been married. LOL Getting your guests to take showers and go in naked is though.
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