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mlobitz

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Everything posted by mlobitz

  1. Thankfully the system is not beeping and I haven't had the cell working for months so it's set at zero. Maybe that's why I'm not hearing a beep. The filter will come on at the proper times, but I don't have any real-time control of the system. Pool company is coming out today and I'll know more. I bought a new front board last year, so I still have some warranty time.
  2. I've kinda had it with my Jandy Aquapure 1400 and purelink power system. I had to replace the front board last year at significant cost and now I'm getting a 170 error on the screen which basically locks up the whole system. I called the pool company and they told me to wait until the pool temperature goes above 52 degrees. Something to do with the Aquapure sensors, which I also just recently, maybe a year or so, had replaced. Is there anyway I can disconnect the Aquapure, the pool company told me to unplug the power to the cell, but that doesn't do anything, so that the power center doesn't recognize the cell at all? I just want to use the power center to operate the filter, waterfall and lcd lights. I already took the solar off of the power center because that system is just as faulty as the rest. Truly, I'm just about to go all analog, but I don't know how I would operate the lcd light. As far as chlorine goes, I have switched to all bleach and mps in my spa, so I'm confident I can use chlorine pucks and liquid chlorine to sanitize the pool. Any help here would be great. Any helpful experiences on the Jandy system in general. Anyone know how to cut off the Aquapure from the system... Thanks.
  3. Crank the chlorine up to 30 ppm or drain and refill upon return. Will be gone a couple of weeks....
  4. Anyone know where I can find a schematic of a Hot Spring Grandee tub (2008 model year) I want to attach a spa table to the side of the tub and I don't want to drill into any of the plumbing. The screws I want to use are only about an inch long and maybe 3/16ths in diameter. The table is free standing, I just want to "L" bracket it to the spa for some extra stability. I'd like to put in two of the previously mentioned screws as near to the top of the spa as I can. Any help here would be great!
  5. How do I know if I need a replacement ozone system(how do I know if the ozone system is still emitting ozone?) I have a Hot Springs Grandee 2008 with the Freshwater II system. If I need to upgrade/replace the system with the Freshwater III system, how do I go about doing that? Are there directions to make the change out online? Has anyone attempted this replacement? Thanks!
  6. Sounds like you will need another cell or sensor. I've had this happen twice with my AP 1400. Both times the sensor or one of the three sensors had shorted out. Frankly...this is terrible technology. Just go with 3" puck floaters. You'll use less power, acid and salt. The cost of the floater and pucks is not that much and the difference is water feel is not that much different. Just use enough chlorine to keep the levels up around 3-4 ppm and you should be fine...
  7. You can't smell chlorine. The smell is from chloramines. You need to get the Taylor K-2006 test kit and test for CC. I have that kit so I'll give it a whirl. Just curious, but what am I smelling when I open up a bottle of bleach, or pool chlorine or even the 3" pucks in the big white bucket? Are those chloramines as well? If not, then what the heck is that smell? Results: 5 ppm FC - 5 ppm TC = 0 ppm CC according to my K-2006. So what the heck is that smell? Might cruise the SWG back a little, maybe 80%. You can't normally smell chlorine at the concentrations in a swimming pool. Even straight bleach does not have a lot of smell. Although, you can detect chlorine at the higher levels in bleach or tabs. It's possible that some of the chlorine gas being generated by your SWG is not fully dissolving and off-gassing. You would be able to smell that. How long is the plumbing from your SWG to your return? Not very far. Maybe 15 ft from the SWG to the closest return. What's your take on SWG? Good, bad, pool propaganda? Not judging, just curious from the people who frequent this forum. Thanks!
  8. You can't smell chlorine. The smell is from chloramines. You need to get the Taylor K-2006 test kit and test for CC. I have that kit so I'll give it a whirl. Just curious, but what am I smelling when I open up a bottle of bleach, or pool chlorine or even the 3" pucks in the big white bucket? Are those chloramines as well? If not, then what the heck is that smell? Results: 5 ppm FC - 5 ppm TC = 0 ppm CC according to my K-2006. So what the heck is that smell? Might cruise the SWG back a little, maybe 80%.
  9. Hmmm...I'm pretty sure the salt content is pretty close. 3400 ppm to 4200 ppm overnight is a lot of salt in a 15K gallon pool. Could this sensor possible have been used before? Getting a hold of a sensor seems near impossible in my area. Here's the funny thing...now that I've cranked the system up to 100% I can get about 4-5 ppm out of the system and I can SMELL chlorine. Isn't the whole point of this system to limit the taste, smell and irritation of chlorine. Baffled...
  10. Pool tech came and recalibrated the sensor. Now it reads 3400 ppm which is what it read before. Is that normal to recalibrate the sensor? The readings were MUCH higher, higher than they ever have been. The last sensor shorted out in 5 short months. $200 for 5 months or $40 a month or more than a dollar a day for this stuff???
  11. New sensor went in on Wednesday without too much trouble. The cell has been making chlorine without a problem. Up around 3-4 ppm as of Sunday 8/1/10. Now the sensor is reading too much salt, 4200 ppm, it's NEVER been this high and I haven't added salt to the pool in months! Now it is going into general fault 145 and not producing chlorine. What is up with this tech? The old readings were in the 3200 ppm area and I've had the water checked several times this summer by two different Leslie's pool stores. Their reading were about the same at 3100 ppm and 3300 ppm. There has been plenty of splash out this summer and that water has been replaced with the autofill. Time to call for another sensor or what?
  12. I had my AQ 1400 sensor replaced for the second time today. Supposedly these things are supposed to last 2-3 years, but the first two lasted 18 months and 5 months respectively. These things cost about $200 a piece and the cell cost about $600-$700 when they c*ap out in 3-5 years. I asked the pool tech today about what most people do when the cells go out. His reply was that most people go back to 3" pucks and a gal. of chlorine a week. The pucks keep the PH down so adding acid, in our climate, is not always necessary. With the SWG I'm adding 1/2 gallon of acid every week. Not sure what the advantage of SWG is? Is it an illusion like variable speed pumps? I'm going old school. I'm sticking with SWG until it goes then I'm going to the pucks and chl. method. Run the pump 6 hrs a day ON HIGH and just go for it. So tired of fiddling with this technology that supposedly makes life easier. Going on vacation? SHOCK THE POOL! Leaving for longer than a week? Hire a pool guy for a week or two. SWG and variable pumps - take a leap! Sorry about the rant, but I feel a bit used by the people who built my pool. Great pool, so far, but if I knew then what I know now, I would have gone single speed pump and no SWG...just my 2 cents... Also, I'm lucky to even find a tech with a sensor as no one nearby even has one. The pool company can't even get them in stock...what a joke! As always thanks to the people on here for the help! Whew!
  13. Aquapure spit out another 172/186 error on the SWG today. This will be the third sensor since Sept. 2008. The equipment is under warranty for 3 years, but isn't this a bit ridiculous. I have a very clean pool with very little debris coursing through the system. Several inspections by myself and others have produce no known damage to the sensors. They just go bad. Is this the norm? If so, when the system is out of warranty I'll probably cap the sensor and just dump bleach in the pool every couple of days and shock when we go on vacation. Not really seeing the advantage here if the cost to replace the system is close to $1000.00 if it is going to continually breakdown. Any thoughts here, what am I doing wrong? "Mr. McKittrick, after very careful consideration, sir, I've come to the conclusion that your new SWG system sucks." Just a little War Games for ya...
  14. My pool's around 15000 gal with a pump run time of 4 hours on high(Jandy Stealth - I think it's a 1.5HP). The Aquapure 1400 is set at 60%. I'm not getting but maybe 1 ppm on these hot(100+ deg.) days. Should I crank up the cell or the pump run time? Or...is this just the way it goes with the hot days? Will running the pump on low (say...3 hours high and 3 hours low)produce the same amount of chlorine at a higher concentration as the volume of water is decreased? Thanks!
  15. Not sure if my 1400 is doing the same thing. Had it serviced and cleaned about 3 months ago when the sensors went bad. I don't seem to have any chlorine in the afternoon. It's pretty hot here, about 100 degrees a day and I know the sun and UV chew through the chlorine. Maybe need to up the filter pump time. I'm at 3.5 hours a day which was fine last year.
  16. My CYA seems to have gone down when I added some fresh water due to evaporation. Should I just hit it with some dichlor to get the CYA back up. I refilled about 6 weeks ago and have been using bleach for about 5 of them.
  17. Anyone know if there is going to be a pool calculator app for the Droid?
  18. I'm using the dichlor/bleach method for my spa. I've noticed that the pH keeps climbing week after week. The TA is around 70-80, so I added a bit of baking soda for that, but the pH just keeps going back up. The only other thing I add to the water is MPS 1-2 times a week for added security. I use 0.5 to 1 oz. of dry acid to knock the pH back down. Mostly my water is perfect except for the pH. Thoughts?
  19. So can I lose the silver ion insert and still use the ozone? I'm going to leave the silver ion insert out on the next change out. Those silver ion inserts are so expensive in the whole scheme of things(+$30.) Bleach...cheap...mps...relatively cheap if you use a little at a time. Baking soda...cheap, a little bit of acid...cheap...calcium is expensive, but only used at start up. Borates...even though I don't use them...cheap...shouldn't cost so much to run this thing. Mostly power and with spring on the way, the cost for that should mellow with the increasing temps.
  20. So I switched over to the dichlor then bleach method. So far so good, but I'm wondering now if what I'm doing is complete and total overkill... I have a Hot Spring Grandee 500 gallon tub with silver ions and ozone. At the end of each soak I add 2 oz. of MPS and 3 oz. of 6% unscented Clorox bleach. Is it necessary to add the MPS or even keep the silver ions and ozone in the future? Is bleach enough? I do use the stain and scale liquid as well. It seems pretty easy to keep the TA and PH steady without the borates, but I might try that on the next fill just for fun.
  21. The Pool Calculator is amazing. Just put in the numbers you have, then the numbers you want/need and then tweak them to get the CSI as close to 0 as you can. I love having more knowledge about pool balancing than the people at Leslie's...which isn't saying much. Also, read the Complete Guide to Pool Maintenance. Easy to read and understand about what each of these balancing chemicals mean and what they are capable of doing.
  22. Sounds good! Right now I have the very large 182 oz. bottle of Clorox unscented 6% bleach in a Home Depot bucket in a shaded area. In the summer the temps will get into the 100s, but the bucket will always be in the shade as will the spa. Thanks again for the timely info.
  23. Chem Geek, What is the shelf life of bleach once you open the bottle? I bought three large bottles of bleach at Costco for under $8, 182 oz. each. Once I open the bottle, how long is the bleach going to sustain is sanitizing power? A nurse once told me that once a bottle of bleach is open you have about 30 days to use it up before it starts to become less effective. True for hot tub use? Thanks!
  24. replace the motor and seal. Think about the time it takes to replace the capacitor and the time it takes to replace the motor and seal...once you tear into it, you might as well do it right or replace the pump. 7 years is a pretty good run when you mix water, moving parts and electricity. My pump lasted a whole 12 mo. before it froze up. Way to go JANDY! woo hoo....
  25. Hmmm... this happened to me as well. The part was warrantied, but I have a feeling this is a commonly replaced part as my pool builder came out and replaced it without argument. He had several in his truck. NOT a good sign....especially after warranty. If nuclear reactors were built like SWCG then we'd have 3 mile Islands all over the place....
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