Pool Clown

So you run the pump for 4 hours and water level drops to the "skimmer wall"? I'm assuming that means the base of the skimmer throat? How are you not convinced that you have a leak?

The two hi-limits open at two different temps i think 130 and 150 don't hold me to that... anyway, is there a chance that they were reversed when they were installed?

Those hi-limits attach to the outside of the header and aren't subject to the (corrosive effects of) water. That's not to say that they couldn't get corroded. The bypass assembly on the other hand is in the waterway, and would be my bet. Cost of By-pass is less than the hi limit kit (2). Note: Not to say i'm right Paul, but i don't see as many hi-limits fail as i do bypasses. One thing the OP can try is to bypass the hi-limits, run the heater, and if it begins to knock and/or bang, it is the by-pass or some kind of an obstruction, and not the hi-limit(s). Hi-limits usually react to another problem, not their own problem.

The variation you are experiencing is probably the sensor and not the unit itself. You can try to re calibrate it, but what i would do and advise you the same is to just raise the salinity level in the pool just enough to keep the unit happy (from shutting off). The thing is, is that if you re calibrate, it will stay that way. IOW, if you later replace the sensor, you will have to calibrate again. That's fine, as long as you remember, or as long as you tell the guy you sell your house to in a couple of years. See what i'm getting at here?? You have to remember how much you had to re calibrate it by also, and reset it to that point if you replace the sensor. Its just easier to add a bit of salt.

+1 New style cell will include sensor (probable cause anyway).

520272 is the one you need.

Need to see some pictures to assess.

You should get the "wait" for about 4 min after unit has power put to it. If the cell itself is at 7 years, you will probably need to replace it. Typical life is 10,000 hrs of use (5 years).

Think about it. When you say "run the spa" i'm assuming that you mean heat it as well as circulating it, yes? If so, there would be no way to circulate both pool and spa without heating both, unless you are ok with the pool being the same temp as the spa (100 degrees +) That would be very inefficient as well as time consuming. Now you could run both the pool and sheer decent off the same pump, but not the spa and sheer decent (it would drain the spa if decent water returned to pool) unless the sheer decent flowed into in the spa. Now having said all that, typical circulation draws water from the pool and returns to pool and to the spa this would heat both bodies to the comfortable pool temp. and if you wanted to run a sheer decent, you could valve off a portion of return water to run that to either pool or spa.

While there is a thermal cutoff in the light fixture, it is not advised to run the light out of the water. Once in a while we get a call from someone needing their light replaced because it was on a timer, and the owner forgot that when he drained his pool. The light can explode with the broken lens being the projectile. The cord leaks because it shrinks and the grommet doesn't shrink with it. I would not want to do this for customers as it cannot warranty that kind of repair, and can not recommend to DIYers due to the hazard. Good theory though for repair. If there were just a way to do that repair without that liability.

Is the float valve in place under the skimmer basket?

There are the grids (you have), spacers (they should be ok to use over). The hub with oring, the drive plate with oring(s), and the threaded shafts may need to be replaced, but you wont know till you get in there. Does the backwash valve still operate?

I think the hardest part will be locating the grids. Have you found any?

Photobucket.com

You should have received instructions with the new flow sensor and daughter board on how to calibrate the new sensor. If you didn't. Turn the pump and A/P 1400 on and wait for the "wait" to disappear from the display (about 4 min). Notice a small light on the daughter board near a small button. Push and hold the little button on the daughter board, the little light will go out. Continue to hold down the button till the light comes back on. At that point, the sensor should be re calibrated. I have had some cases where i needed to do this more than once before the unit would work again. Note: Some of the new daughter boards were shipped with the old style sensors (white epoxy) and will probably fail (not fact, just experience). Black epoxy sensors seem to be the most durable at this point and should be used.

Post a picture of the equipment/valves and we will try to decipher your valves. (Photobucket.com)

Shame shame... especially with acid, test the water first, you know better than that! You got your 5 years out of your original cell, more or less. So lets hope the new version lasts at least 5 yrs (10,000 hrs.). I've noticed the reversed label on the cell too. I don' think it's a manufacturing defect.

Do you have a Sta-Rite pump? There is a small plug at the bottom of the pump pot. that plug has an o-ring. That oring cracks after only a few years. This could be your leak.

Maybe a valve is turned off? Post a pic of the equipment. Wait a min, the Polaris 360 connection is supposed to blow water.

Point both the valves' handles toward the spa side plumbing. Post the pic and ill be able to guide you better.

try Photobucket.com

If that heater is less than a year, it should be warranty, parts anyway. Yes 3 months it can go bad, depending on how low the ph was and the flow rate.

Do not paint or stain the plaster! Make the dummies that stained it, replaster it. That is what liability insurance is for. P.S. and do not back down on this! It is YOUR pool, and they wrecked it. They should fix it, and fix it right. There are so many so called "contractors" out there that think they can just come onto your property and mess things up and be absolved of it just because they are "making something wonderful" for you.

Check the transformer voltages before you plug in the new board.

EO5 is a stack flue sensor fault. It is either faulting on it's own (broken needs replacing), or you have a stack flue over temp.