Pool Clown

My guess from your explanation is that the thermal cut off on the pump motor is turning off the motor. If new, a warranty call is needed.

Do you have a variable speed pump? I could be that the pump is going through its "prime" mode when it first comes on. This prime mode raises the speed for a period of time set by the user in the menu (up to 15 min). Then it drops to its run speed. Just a guess. Unfortunately, im not familiar with the Astral products (I'm US). Perhaps a call to their tech support can offer some suggestions.

And or the valve actuators.

If you turn the unit off, then back on, the cell reversing light should not be on (after the 4 min wait state passes).

No way of knowing unless you test the motor for Amp draw. Usually with an inductive ammeter. But heat usually equates to more energy used.

That is where the air in your jets comes from. It was cut like that on purpose.

There is no need to use lubricant on the o-ring. Lubricant on an o-ring is for a sealing surface that moves on the o-ring like in the case of a screw on type pump lid, not when the two surfaces are static and merely come together. The surfaces that the o-ring touch do need to be free and clean of debris or D.E. build up. That is what would cause water to pass. A crack in the tank near the band clamp would also do this. If you used genuine Jandy/Zodiac parts, the o-ring shouldn't leak at that age unless the band clamp had been previously over tightened, and/or has developed a flat edge.. The o-ring, however old, should be free of flat edges if they are to be leak free. If the o-ring does have a flat edge, there will be a risk of it leaking, and no extra tightening of the clamp will fix this.

How was the Ph level?

The copper isnt "breaking down" On its own anyway. There are three popular ways that the copper could be getting into you pool. First and least is copper in your supply water You can check for this relatively easily to rule out (Water test). Next likely could be your water velocity is actually stripping or eroding the copper right off the surface of the exchanger. Finally, your water chemistry can be doing it by means of low Ph (too much acid or an "overdose" of it).

Can you post a pic of the module?

Get the salt level where it needs to be (~3000) THEN reset the daughter board. You may need to reset more than once.

Going from left to right. Far left valve is the return with an actuator to control flow to either the spa (left) or pool. Valve appears to be in the mostly pool direction with a portion of the water going to the spa (normal). Next two lines (to the right) that go into the ground appear to be pool returns. Next two lines appear (from the position of the valves) to be suction from the pool. Main drain, and skimmer (speculation). Next in line is the blower (air) for the jets/spa. next valve is the flow control between the pool and spa. finally (far right pipe) is the suction for the spa. Valve immediately out of the pump controls water to the pool cleaner valve actuator. This (to me) is not a usual install. typically (meaning in my area) the suction and return are not tied together as they are in your case. You don't appear to have a backwash valve on that filter, so the only way to clean the filter appears to be disassembly. Hope this helps.

With the pump off and, if the equipment is below water level, close the valves. The top of the backwash valve will unscrew and allow you to remove the slide. Confirm that the disks on the slide are 1) still there, two disks. and 2) in the right position (have not slid up or down on the shaft) this would cause the ports to not seal completely, and allow dirty water back to the pool and possibly give you the high pressure you are experiencing. post a pic of the slide once you get it out.

New pump may have an increased flow rate. Increased flow through the heater may be causing the high pitched noise you are experiencing. Did you have the pump replaced? or just the motor?

Photobucket.com

Depends where it is. Pictures?

Could it be the new relay isnt really an identical relay? Relays that begin to "Stick" is because the contacts are getting tack welded due to increased amperage being drawn through them, and/or an extended connection (days on end). Is the motor making any increased noise when it is running? I would check to see what kind of amperage is being drawn through your old relay. Best way is to use an inductive amp meter. If you don't have one, and you don't want to buy one (for just one test), You would have to hire someone to look at it (make sure he has one before you hire him, or he may want to just sell you a new motor on a guess), or maybe a neighbor has one you can borrow. My guess is that even if you get the correct relay in there, it may not last if your having an amperage issue with the motor and what ever else may be on that load (Aquapure, heater, etc.).

Try resetting the little board connected to the end of the sensor cable. (tiny little button)

http://www.poolcenter.com/p/laars-lx-heaters-1999-present-pg-2 #44

Sounds like the burner tray needs to be cleaned. IOW, the jets, and/ or the tubes may have spider webs in them keeping the gas from flowing through them and in turn possibly causing gas to pool. Then when that pooling gas eventually finds its way to the igniter.... you get the idea. I would look at them all, but the one starting the whole issue would be the one under the igniter. once you get the tubes repaired/ replaced and the tray cleaned, you may be alright. However, no way to know for sure until you at least clean and repair the tray. This appears to be a gas delivery problem and that is what we are addressing here.

Also, is your light the only appliance on the GFI? It may not be the light at all, but something else that is on the same circuit.

Lo is a low water temp, not lo flow. No flow will not produce Cl. You can push the calibrate button on either speed as long as you are not getting a low flow display on the LCD. I realize it has almost been a year since you posted this. Sorry for the delay.

They will work.

To take advantage of the VS, you need to re-plumb??? Wait. To take advantage of the benefits of a VS pump, is to save money, yes? To save the most money (electric costs), you will want to run that pump the slowest speed you can get away with. In doing so, you will be moving much less water then you had in the past, hence larger pipe size is not a requirement for this pump in that application. Now if you have a system that also runs say a pool cleaner, jets for the spa, or a water feature off of that filter, then yes, you need to move more water. And just to be clear, if your cleaner, or the spa jets has its own "booster" pump, you don't need more flow from the filter pump. No more than what you are supplying right now with the single speed pump. Now you should expect to pay (at least) twice as much for a VS pump as you would for a single speed. NOT that you need to replace your single speed pump at this time. You probably just need to replace the motor, which will be even less compared to the VS cost. More to keep in mind, the idea with VS is that it will absolutely pay for itself in the long run, or long term rather...

It will be easier to explain if you post a picture of your equipment (including the valves) to the forum via photobucket.com .