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Pool Clown

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Everything posted by Pool Clown

  1. I can't tell what kind of quality or longevity you can expect from that cell. The OEM cell that comes with that unit can be expected to produce chlorine for about 5 years or 10,000 hrs.
  2. Not necessarily... Keep in mind a "Seasonal pool maintenance package" is a Bi-annual service and not a weekly service. I get lots of customers that request "well checks" before and after the season. They don't require a weekly service, but appreciate a professional to come in and check all the equipment and look for things that he or she may not know to look for. But if it were worded as a "weekly service", plenty of people would prefer to have the pool maintained by a service, but don't due to the price quoted to them. That question is an opportunity for the survey-ee to set an acceptable (to them) rate. That's what surveys are all about, taking the "temperature" of the customer base.
  3. Picture 4, valve for cleaner. Handle needs to be pointing towards the right. This will keep the spa from draining when in spa mode. Make note of valve position BEFORE turning valve to the right. That valve position has been set for a specific pressure/flow to make the cleaner operate correctly, and needs to be returned to that position when you are done with using the spa.
  4. What color is the flame on the pilot? It should be mostly blue with just a bit of yellow on the tip of the flame. Any more yellow than that could be an indication of a partially clogged pilot. Does the pilot go out when you try to fire the heater?
  5. I have experienced the "not completely filling pot" on the pump with some installations. Sometimes if the pump is allowed to run for a while, the air will work its way out. I believe this is one reason that Pentair has engineered a "priming" feature on their VS pumps. This feature allows the user to set a predetermined RPM for a predetermined time (typically a higher RPM for about 30 sec to 1 min) when ever the pump is started, so it can clear itself of any air. Then after that set time, the pump will drop to its normal speed for the duration of its program.
  6. Personally, i do not like the SunTouch. I like to steer my customers towards the SolarTouch. I find it to be a bit more user friendly. But it is only a solar controller. This unit never displays any thing that says the solar has come on? That would turn the cleaner off, but would come back on eventually. Replacing the box and board in effect is replacing everything about the controller. I too agree with two failures not being likely.
  7. You are correct, however, keep in mind that post is almost 8 years old. In theory, you can make it work. But you would need to run the pump at a higher RPM to satisfy both the cleaner and the filters' needs if you do not have automation. You may also find this task challenging if you have only 1 1/2" piping. The statement where i said not to divert all water is just because you should have some water passing through the filter so it can do its job of keeping the water filtered. If you have automation (which that previous poster had), you could make this work by running the pump at a speed to operate the cleaner with all the water diverted to the cleaner for a period of time, say 2 hours, then have the valve rotate to divert all the water to the filter and then run the pump for a period of time needed to keep the pool water clean. Are you trying to do away with the pump that normally runs the 280? Again, You can "make" a 280 work without a booster pump by using just a variable speed pump, but it just isn't the cleaners (280) design to do so this way. If you have the pump for this cleaner, and you don't have automation, you should continue to use it. It would only need to run about 2 hours or less a day.
  8. If the fountain is running while you are in spa mode, that is where the spa water is going. I am assuming that the waterfall is a water feature and not a "waterfall" from the spa into the pool, yes? I don't see a valve that would control the waterfall. Let me ask, when you run the spa, how many valves do you turn? It should be two, or both the valves seen in the picture that appear to have black tape on them. And what is the line that runs along the back of the equipment? Is there a valve on that line that may be obscured from view in the picture by the plumbing that goes into the heater from the filter.
  9. The AUX 2 relay circuit is supposed to be used for the cleaner. You may notice on the PCB that is says CLNR. Filter pump should go to PUMP. Only thing i can think of is the solar is calling for heat, and when that happens, the Solartouch will turn off the cleaner pump. That is why you want to use AUX2, the software kills the power to AUX2. But if its happening even when you were plugged into AUX 1... *scratches head* Are you seeing anything on the display that would suggest a delay? Make sure (in case you already haven't) that solar is set to off, and you are in "Pool & spa" mode not "Solar only" mode. That should take the delay out of the equation. Verify that your "CIRCUIT FUNCTIONS" for AUX2 (menu 10) is set to CLEANER In solar menu, make sure Enable heat pump is set to No, and cooling enabled set to No Valve Circuit set to SOLAR, Not an AUX.
  10. We need to determine whether or not this is a filter issue, or something down stream of the filter. Your backwash valve should have a setting on it marked "by-pass" or "recirculate". This position should take the filter out of the plumbing circuit. Since the by-pass mode may also take the pressure gauge out of the circuit, we will need to determine a base line. This is going to be very UN-scientific. When the filter pressure is at its highest, reach down to a return and feel how forcefull the incoming water is. This will be your baseline. Now, turn the pump off and put it into the recirculate position and turn the pump back on. Now begin to monitor the incoming water for the next hour, or how ever long it has been taking to develop the high pressure. Are you experiencing reduced flow out of the return over time? If so, the problem with the high pressure developing is NOT from the filter. Perhaps something has broken in the heater and has lodged itself either in the heater, or if you have a salt water chlorinator, something (the broken heater part?) may have gotten caught in the cell. Does the flow seem to be the same as it was when you turned the pump on (just after moving the valve on the filter). If so, then something is causing the pressure to rise in the filter. When you setup the filter, Was the correct size AND type of sand used? You cannot use any kind of sand. It is specific to water filtration. Typically, a silica sand with a size of #20 should be used. Also, some sand filters require the use of pebble or gravel in the first couple of inches, then the rest is sand. Also very important. DO NOT POUR THE SAND OR GRAVEL INTO A DRY TANK!!! You must put several inches of water into the tank before you begin to introduce the sand. And continue to fill with water as you pour more sand in. Failure to do so can break the laterals in the bottom of the tank! If you filled the tank without water, the pump would begin to fill the tank from the top down. The sand will begin to settle, and put increasing downward pressure on the laterals breaking them. The laterals at the base of the tank are what draw clean water away from the tank and hold back the filter media (sand). If these become dislodged or broken, the sand can enter the laterals and block the manifold causing high pressure. Then when you subsequently backwash, you flush those lines out and you would get semi good flow until the sand migrated back in though the broken lateral and once again cause high pressure.. Your symptoms sound like this may have happened. Are you getting some sand back into the pool?
  11. What is your filter pump model? What is your cleaner pump model? Does your cleaner pump run within the time the filter runs?
  12. 1. Yes, You shouldn't be reducing the plumbing to 3/4" on a non booster pump type cleaner. Should be 1 1/2 all the way to the wall fitting. Did you change from a booster pump cleaner to a non booster pump in hopes that eliminating a pump would be a more energy efficient system? 2. Yes, the best way to plumb for a NBPC (non booster pump cleaner) is to use 3 way valve between the pump and the filter. Plumbing this way will require some sort of in line screen or filter like the Jandy #2888 (energy filter strainer with gauge) on the line that goes to the cleaner. Also, you should not have all the flow going to the cleaner. The valve shouldn't be diverting water only to the cleaner, and closed to the filter, this may be the reason that the pump wont completely fill. 3. Yes, it is just a matter of getting enough water to the unit (raise pump speed). Note: Just re-read your post. If you are trying to use a 280 as a NBPC, You may have sub par cleaning performance. 280's are designed for use with a dedicated booster pump. If you do a little research, you will notice that the 360 (the would be correct unit for this application) has a larger diameter feed tube. this allows the unit make better use of lower pressure by more volume of water to run the unit. I hope that makes sense. Bottom line is the 280 pretty much needs to have its own booster pump to run properly.
  13. The two valves on the right that leaked when the pump ran (pulling water from the pool when in spa mode) probably continued to leak when the pump was off (from spa to pool) and allowed the spa to drain when the pump was off, or even on.. Did the spa draining issue stop after you serviced the valves? If you get water overflowing from the spa to the pool when the valves are in the position they are in that pic, You either have a spa by-pass (didn't see it in the pic), or you have a pool return in the spa, and if this is a raised spa, there just has to be a check valve in that line. I would hate to think the check valve is buried (it happens) or maybe there is what looks like a small skimmer type lid in the deck to access it? There is also some plumbing in the pic that i can't quite ID. It is the line that has the red handled valve on it. It splits and goes in two different directions. There is also a line that runs along the back wall.
  14. Ignore Susan. Sorry Susan, but you are a bot. If you aren't a bot, shame on you for soliciting on this site! Mag, Sorry for the late reply, hope you are still out there...You have a couple of choices. Depending on how old the Aquapure is, you may want to consider replacing the whole unit. Or, if you want to repair, the LCD display is directly mounted to the front board and that may, or may not be what has had a short. I have seen codes that reference a certain component, only to find a different component being the problem, and that can get expensive. And given the track record of this unit, i wouldn't necessarily trust the error codes if gives 100%. I have said here before that i, for better or worse, am a Jandy Zodiac warranty station and have the luxury to be able to swap out parts to find the problem. (because as stated before, the error codes can't always be trusted). Maybe your tech would be willing to work with you and not make you buy components that didn't fix the problem. The cracked window or membrane, listed as: Control box decal APURE, bottom- (part #R0404400) is still available through the 2017 catalog. So are the front (R0403900) and back (R0404100) boards. Logic suggests that you replace the front board since that was the code you got. Problem is, those units will sometimes display multiple error codes, but what is worse, it will sometimes "stack" codes. IOW, once you correct what was giving the first code, the next code will pop up. This is, in my opinion, the definition of snowballing. Good Luck.
  15. I don't think there is the board anymore. To be honest, i haven't worked on one in a while. I have kinda gone in another direction with SWCG's. Now i'm mostly installing/replacing with the IC40's. A lot less problems.
  16. Check the pilot light and make sure that its flame is hitting the pilot generator. And that the pilot flame is not yellow. Should be more of a blue color, with just the tip of the flame being yellow. When the flame hits the generator, the generator creates voltage (mV) to operate the solenoid on the gas valve. A weak or misdirected flame will not generate enough voltage to hold the solenoid on the main valve in the open position and will eventually close. There may be enough voltage to move the solenoid initally (2 sec) but not enough to hold it open for any length of time. This could be what is happening, or it could be the control board. Sometimes it is difficult to diagnose problems without actually being on site.
  17. I would start with checking the pilot flame to make sure that the flame is not being deflected away from the pilot generator by some soot on the assembly. flame can be partially obstructed from the generator and still fire the burner tray. Are you sure that it is only firing for two seconds? If it was actually firing for say 10 to 15 seconds then shutting down, it could be something different. Side Note: LRX? Could it be a LXi? or an LRZ(M) ??
  18. Could you also back up a bit and post a picture of all the plumbing? Something looked funny in your first set of pics, and i want to see everything to make sure there isn't a valve set wrong.
  19. I am assuming that the relay you replaced is "new". If 2nd "new" relay sticks as well, i would check the amperage that is being drawn through the relay. Pump motor drawing excessive amperage may be sign of getting ready to fail. three ways spa can drain (attempting to equalize with pool). check valve (your theory, and quite possibly the problem). The return, or the suction actuator(s) not rotating completely. It may be the angle of the picture, but it looks like your suction side actuator may not be rotated completely. I'm talking about just a little bit. That's all it takes for it to drain down overnight. If you are using the spa regularly. it may be rotating properly one time then not the next (worn gearbox in the actuator). That would give you the "not doing it every night" symptom. If you aren't rotating the valves often, i would look at, or replace the spa bypass check valve.
  20. All i can say is keep an eye on it. Sometimes stuck breakers resolve themselves. Meaning that the relay un-sticks itself. If the relay had been welded (stuck), the contacts are now pitted and will likely do it again. Just no telling when. Maybe when you leave for two week vacation?
  21. Sounds like the relay is stuck. While running, give the panel a tap with the handle of a screwdriver. if the pump then shuts off. turn off the breaker and replace the relay. Note: The relay may begin to work properly again, but will now be more susceptible to stick repeatedly now, and should be replaced.
  22. Never heard of Red Leopard. Retaining a small amount of air in the pump basket may or may not be normal. A quick Google of Red leopard returned this. Contacting them may give you the info you are seeking.
  23. It is possible that you are in "freeze protection" mode. You should let it "do its thing" and it will return to normal operation when the temps rise, usually around 38°. You can disable the freeze protection, but i wouldn't advise doing so. If you are concerned about energy use, you can either disable your regular program and let the freeze protection run time be your daily run, or you can change your program to run at the same time as the freeze protection would run. Typically between 4 to 5 am to a couple hours past sunrise.
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