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Pool Clown

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Everything posted by Pool Clown

  1. 1. Im sure that you cannot expect that to heat your pool unless you increase the scale...by alot! 2. try slowing the water down to see if that helps the heat rise.
  2. Try searching "Pentair relay" on the pool parts website of your choice Oh... here! 520106 That is for Pentair automation (IntelliTouch, EasyTouch, Sun or SolarTouch, etc.) Or Jandy: OneTouch, Etc. Compool systems are: RLYLX
  3. If you can get a friend to help you, you may be able to get the cord to move if one of you pushed while the other pulled. Yes, one of you will have to get into the water! You may also try the advice of the previous poster and see if you can get away with just replacing the bulb and gasket. Note: if you are going to go this route, you MUST replace the gasket or it WILL leak. If you replace the gasket and it still leaks, then that is proof that the fixture has failed and needs to be replaced.
  4. Air in the system will not give you high pressure. Perhaps, if the pump cannot get going at full flow due to air being drawn into the pump, you may get low pressure, but not high. Think of your filter as a restriction in the system and the pressure gauge is just before that restriction. A high pressure would indicate increased flow OR the filter beginning to get, or getting dirty and may need to be cleaned. If your pool is very dirty (reduced clarity) it may not be uncommon for you to have to clean the filter several times before the pool is crystal clear again. How clear was the water before you started? How long have you had this filter? DE Filter grids do wear, and can collapse over time, or, if they have consistently been over charged with DE, that will greatly reduce their life as well, and give the symptoms you are getting. Now having said all that, 17 psi on the filter is not considered an excessive or dangerous pressure. Some systems, 17 psi is a good clean pressure. Running in recirc by-passes the filter completely, and does little more than move the water around in the pool. If you are concerned that you may damage something, you are better to turn off the filter pump than to run in re-circulation.
  5. It appears that your suction side actuator has either stopped working, or has been turned off (at the little switch). Did this start happening a day after you last used the spa?
  6. A service light indicates that you need to "camp out" at the panel for what could be up to 5 min to see the service code that will only display for about a second. A tone or beep usually accompany the code. It will be a three digit code. More than one code may be displayed.
  7. If you inspect the relay socket at the board, and find that the solider joints are good, you may want to try the below suggestion before you buy a board... You need to confirm that the system is set to control, and recognize the pump properly. Look in the settings menu for Circuit functions and then confirm that Pool is set to "MASTER POOL". If that is good, then you need to confirm that the pump has a pump speed assigned to "POOL". Look in: MENU/SETTINGS/INTELLIFLO/PUMP #X (X = pump in question)/SPEEDS/ Now, look at the first line of the display. It should read: Pump #1............1/8. 1 is flashing. At this point scroll till " pool" comes up in the bottom line of the display. If you dont see "pool" in any of the 8 presets, that could be why you aren't getting the pump going on. Once you connect the comm cable to the E/T and the pump, you need to assign a speed to any aux you want to assign the pump to. Note: If you are using a comm cable to control the pump, you don't need to use a relay to control the pump. You (should) wire the pump DIRECTLY to the breaker. On off switching occurs within the pumps 'Drive" unit mounted on the motor via commands from the E/T. This is how the manufacturer recommends you hook up power to the pump, when controlling with automation.
  8. All pools have different demands. If you don't have solar, or are not heating the pool, all you need to address is keeping the water clear and debris removal (pool cleaner). Heating has its own set of demands (maintaining a temp). Otherwise, you can experiment with run times. During the winter, some pools can get by with just a few hours of run time per day. If you are interested in saving electricity, you could try cutting back on the hours that the pool filter runs. Start with taking one or two hours a day off the run time. You will need to monitor your pool closely to see if the decreased run time is affecting the water clarity over time. This is not a process that you can accomplish over a weekend. It may take a week or two. Keep in mind that your winter run time may be dramatically different than your summer run time, and that you will need to run this process/experiment again in the springtime when things warm up for your summer run time(s).
  9. When temp sensors fail, they usually report temps off in excess of 100 degrees. If you can't save the adjusted temp setting, that would suggest a problem with the controller. You may need to erase the EEPROM (memory), and start over. Downside to that is that you would need to rebuild the system again (labels, time, date, schedules, etc.)
  10. Other than removing the cell and the transformer, The owner should see no problems with the salt (left) in the water. If he insists, the pool would need to be drained and refilled to remove the salt.
  11. After you adjust the temp to the number you want in the calibration menu, are you hitting "select"?
  12. Is there a GFI integrated into the filter pump unit?
  13. I would test the water for salt at a couple of different places. You may even want to invest (less than 100 dollars online) in a salt tester. Most will come with a test packet that you can calibrate with a known level of salt to keep your unit accurate. My guess is that you have too much salt in the pool if you added any. Keep in mind that: Salt does not evaporate. The only way you lose salt is when water is taken from the pool. Splashing, pumping out, etc. NOT evaporation though. If you system is running fine then all of a sudden it needs salt, something is up. If you truly need salt, you would only need 10# or 20# AT THE MOST, unless of course you just pumped alot of water out of the pool.
  14. Unfortunately, the sensor is bad, and needs to be replaced. Hopefully, you are still under warranty
  15. Have you verified the correct time (am/pm) with both the "time of day" and the programmed on-off time of the pump(s)?
  16. You need to take the filter apart to see if you have damaged the grids (if it is a DE filter) or (the element if it is a cartridge).
  17. Is this a variable speed pump? It is not uncommon for a basket to not completely fill up on a variable speed pump.
  18. Everything in your post is accurate. Having said that, just relocate the cell to where it should be yourself, or pay to have it done. Sometimes its not worth the stress of trying to pursue problems with an old install... Unless of course you're up for it.
  19. See if you can return the sensor and get a TS5L sensor instead. That is the one you need, and is still in production. If your guy doesn't want to accept the return of the first sensor, I would say that if you gave the parts guy all the numbers you gave in your post when purchasing the first sensor, he should have known the sensor he sold you wouldn't work.
  20. Valves From left to right: Valves 1-3 controls return or water returning to pool from filter /heater (note: valve 3 is main return to pool). Valve 4 controls where water is sent, back to pool (left side) or back to spa (right side). Valve 5 controls where water is drawn from. From pool (to the right) or from spa (left). Valves 6,7 and 8. controls water drawn from pool. (guessing) skimmer, main drain, vac line? Pipes on the left: small one, not sure. Looks like an unused conduit. Larger one is the cleaner output back to the pool, or rather to the cleaner head. Not being there in person to confirm this, the above is a "best guess"
  21. My experience It appears, through my experience, that Jandy is having difficulty keeping the internals of the sensor dry. They cant seem to find an epoxy that can tolerate the hot cold cycles that the sensor goes through to determine the three variables necessary to give the unit accurate information, those being temperature, salinity, and flow.
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