Pool Clown

I'm willing to bet the impeller Is correct, Being that a 7.5 Hp impeller isn't cheap, especially if it's bronze. I doubt if anyone has switched it, Given the intelligence of the service Co.s in the area as reported by Ben. Five Five Eight makes a good point that I missed, Wire size. That could add to the heat problem. If the wire size is borderline, large enough not to trip the breaker but small enough to "starve?" the motor of necessary current, or if there is something up with the connection to the motor, It would heat up. When you reinstall the motor, be sure that you have a good stripped piece of wire to connect with, and make sure it makes a good connection. I still want to know the amp draw and voltages on all tree phases when your back on line. Good luck

If it quacks like a duck....

Check the service plate on the motor, you may find that it is a dual voltage motor. If you put 110 to a motor switched to 220V you will find that the motor will not run properly, and I don't mean that it will have reduced flow. The motor will spin up then right away begin to wind down then click and wind up then down then click, etc. Sorry Dan, Didn't see your post... Never mind.

If your heater light is on, the controller thinks the heater is on, Or at least it has told the heater to come on. Look towards the heater/ element.

Aqua pure 1400... Don't put tabs in the skimmer. Salt, yes thats the stuff.

What are you switching to vacuum? Give a picture perhaps.

Reason I ask is sometimes ants can get into the actual relay and crawl on or around the relay contactor at just the right time, and they get squished. their body's act like wielding rod and weld the contactors together, preventing the relay from opening or shutting off. I see it all the time. Locate the relay that is sticking and give it a (not hard, but a firm) "smack" with the butt end of a screwdriver, it should click off. It may even work fine from that point or it may not. If you decide not to replace, that's fine but just remember, the contactors are no longer nice and smooth, they are jagged now and will do it again eventually.

Sounds like you have a relay that is sticking. Replace the filter pump relay. Do you by any chance have a ant problem around the out door control panel?

That is correct, membrane and cover is one piece for now, hopefully some day you will be able to get just the touch pad but not right now. let us know if that took care of your problem.

Did it used to not do that? Cuz mine does it on purpose, 4 times a day, It's a permanent program I Can't get around it.

Here's my favorite, I think it takes 5 or 10 min to pump mine out. http://www.poolsaz.com/ProductDetails.asp?...10B&click=2

There are some led's on the touch pad on the heater. Do you get any lights there? If not, there are 4 screws that hold the housing covers together. Take them off and then black disk on top (where the touch pad is). Look for two cotter pins holding the disk to the sheet metal, take the disk and turn it over and you'll see some led's on the board, See if you have and lights there. do this after you have tried to fire the heater. The 180 and the r6 are normal.

The only experience I have with this is what i've learned from my own spa. If anyone knows better, jump in here. If my Cl is that out of whack, I just dump it and start over. That would save most if not all your friendships with your guests. Nothing worse that getting into a spa that "Humms" of Cl. Generating that much Cl might mean your running too long (per day) or your'e keeping it cooler when not in use.

EO1 is an open thermistor, Heater no longer knows the temp of the water, therefore It says no way to heat. Sta-Rite Part # 42001-0053S You can pay anywhere btwn $55 and $75 Off line. The r 3 is the rev.

Now I'm thinking maybe something in the pump is unbalanced. But how? Bent stub shaft? I would have to think it would leak after a while, and I think the motor wouldn't last 2- 3 years. Warped or worn to thin impeller? I suppose that would cause a vibration. I would really like to get some pressure / Vacuum readings when It's all back together. You can Google "Feet of head" or "Head pressure". Here is my interpretation Feet of head is the amout of pipe in feet that the pump has to push the water through. Heres the thing, you have to add fittings. Fittings have an equivalent in feet. You'll have to do some homework here cuz I'm too old to commit that **** to memory. And unless you were there when they built the pool, You'll have to guess of the # of fittings underground. Lets start with press / vac guages. Even if you do figure out your head press, You really can't do anything about it at this point. I'm assuming your budget won't allow major re plumbing. There should be a plug at the pot of the pump, Vac. guage goes there. A pressure gauge somewhere downstream of the filter. And a flow meter. Install exactly how the instructions say.

If the flow lcd is showing flow, no flow, It may be the sensor that screws in near the cell (1 1/2 thread) take it out and make sure there is no build up on it. Scrub it with scotchbrite pad. A bad sens may give a "Lo", bad salt reading, bad temp or no temp display.

Surprised they (Jandy) said that John. Lo means the water temp has exceeded the workable range of the unit (low). I think, and don't hold me to it, 58 degrees is the low temp shut off. I tell the owner to wait till the temp comes up, then see if other faults still persist / exist (flow light on and off, no read out, etc.).

Ok, typically relays Get signal voltage to the coil on the relay And thats what throws the switch. So two small wires go to the coil, and Line voltage one or two large gauge wires go into the relay then one or two large gauge wires come out and go to the heater. Now the line (supply) voltage may come right from the power source or it may get voltage from the load side of the pump (so heater relay would have no available voltage unless pump is getting voltage. Make sense? I say one or two large wires because sometimes one leg of a 220 would always be connected to the heater then the other leg would be switched. Or, It is a 110v heater and you don't need to switch the neutral.

Is there a wiring diagram on the inside cabinet? Can't find anything on line. A picture may help.

Huge Hartford loop. WOW! You don't need a heater, That one is Braaand new. If you buy from those guys, Insist they re plumb the face piping. Every thing up to the heater anyway. From the heater to the pool looks ok. Just have them put a check valve between the heater and the Cl feeder. Looks like it's running in pool mode in the pic. Suction actuator needs an adjustment, Should be closing off the spa suc completely in pool mode. Also looks like there is no way to suc from just the spa without also manually turning a valve (Pain in the butt). If the actuator(s) are out of adjustment in spa mode as well, that maybe why it takes so long to heat. When you run it in spa mode, does it continually overflow to the pool? I know, a lot of questions here. If your pump isn't leaking, it's not making a racket, and you got good pressure, It looks like the only thing you need is a filter. Unless you want to get a Energy efficient pump. See if they would be willing to change the header over for you too (make it so the pipes come out of the heater on the left side instead of the right side. It would really clean up the plumbing. If they look at you like you're from Mars when you ask that, I would question their expertise. (Raypak has made it real easy to do this, I can do it in about a half hour) Good Luck

check all your fuses... On and off the board.

Is the 40amp breaker feeding the 50amp GFI?

I believe that is the case, only it's not for cheapos its for a limited service to the tub (inadequate wire size).

check for loose connection between the light bulb and the plug to the board.

also make sure connections are tight! Loose connections = heat.