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Pool Clown

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Everything posted by Pool Clown

  1. There is no "standard valve position" for water features. They are supposed to be set to what you like. Tweak the valves to make the laminars equal, but again, that's a personal preference. Same thing with the pump speed. set it to make the laminars throw as far or as short of distance as you like.
  2. Go stand over by the pump while there running "good". Wait until they start to sputter and see if you can hear the pump slow down. Actually you would hear it slow down, then they would begin to sputter. You touched on something in the middle of your post, the prime feature. If this pump is "controlled" by the PDA, I mean has control of the pump as opposed to simply turning it on and off, then you may have the prime function selected with that aux. It's been a while since I've played around with a PDA. So not sure if it has that function. Also, Check the run speed you have set for the jets and for the laminar's. Set them both to the current speed of the jets and see if that helps. If you have the PDA just turning the pump on and off, the pump is set up in Manual mode, and you should be able to set speeds at the pump. You can also toggle the prime feature on and off at the pump (through the menu). Or you could see on the display if the RPM drops, and also if you are in prime mode. Hope this helps.
  3. Sounds like perhaps a communication problem. If your pump is "talking" to the automation properly, you shouldn't be able to turn the pump on at the pump. What does the display on the pump say? Something else, Did your installer wire the pump directly from the breaker? Or does it go through the E/T relay? VS pumps must be wired directly from the breaker (full time). When you have a variable speed pump the F or "filter" relay is just for accessories to the filter like the Ozone unit or the Cl generator, or makes power available to the cleaner pump, not the (Variable speed) filter pump. Single speed pump? Yes. But not a VS. The E/T turns on and off the pump via the communication cable signal, not by applying power. If you had just the VS pump and no automation, say a time clock then simply applying power would run the pump just as you are doing manually now. Does that make sense?
  4. You may need to just get the whole unit (link you provided). I know its more than what you are looking for. Did you try to get it covered with your home owners insurance?
  5. depending on the vac head, the wheels/axels do wear causing the vac head to run closer to the floor than when brand new.
  6. If you can purge the air, but it comes back, you have another issue and the bubble is a symptom of that. locate the air leak, then your problem here may correct on its own. Note: the tube at the top may be working ok, its just that just as much air is entering as is bleeding off! Also, cleaning the filter will increase flow through that point, assisting in moving the air along..
  7. If you have lots of algae, enough to obscure sight of the pool floor, your system could just be removing the "green" from the water, and that explains the rapid rise in pressure. If you are backwashing and the pressure never drops when you go back into "filter", you should disassemble the filter and clean. Especially if it hasn't been done in a year. Yes, i would recommend once a year teardown. IMO, that is the only way to insure that you have removed all the old/ used DE from the tank, it also give you an opportunity to inspect your grids for damage. And then start with a fresh coat (DE). If your gauge doesn't drop to zero when you shut the pump off, you should replace it too. Note: If your pool guy is responsible for more than just the water chems, he should be doing that filter teardown as part of his service!
  8. When the heater shuts down, does the Intellitouch display reflect this? IOW does it display Heater off? Or is the heater just shutting down and display still reports that the heater is on? Where in the plumbing is your Intellitouch temperature sensor located? Note: For the Intellitouch to have "full" heater temperature control, the heater itself MUST be set to it's maximum temperature setting (104).
  9. Was the backwash valve replaced when you replaced the filter? Or are you using the same one?
  10. Now that you cycled the power, plug in the old relay and see if you have a spare relay!
  11. Most systems will have valve actuators that move the valves from pool to spa and back. So, with that regard you can choose pretty much any automation It will be important however that both your suction and return valves rotate the same distance. IOW so both actuators begin and end (their rotation) at the same time. Most systems will have both valves rotate 180 degrees to complete their "throw". But In some systems, due to space limitations on the pad, you may have a valve plumbed in that will only take 90 degrees to rotate from pool to spa. If they are both like that, its fine. But if one is 90 and the other is 180, you will be getting a slight draining or filling, of the spa during valve rotation depending on which valve has the short throw. It will probably be a negligible amount unless you are playing with the pool spa button turning it on and off frequently.
  12. Do you have a variable speed, or two speed pump on this system?
  13. Sorry, but I need to be able to blow that pic up a bit to see the plumbing better. Do the lines on the right side before they go into the ground have any labels on them?
  14. It would really depend on how the system was plumbed at the equipment. could you post some pics of the equipment plumbing? especially the return side (water back to the pool/ spa).
  15. Looks like a Jandy energy sweep filter. But its too small. It also looks like it has seen better days. DO NOT try to unscrew that transparent piece with channel locks or any other kind of pliers that squeeze the jaws together when you grip the handle(s). Use a monkey or plumbers type wrench where the jaw opening does not change while you are trying to unscrew it.
  16. Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.
  17. Hose clamp on the outlet of the pump is where the temp sensor for the automation is. This sensor will need to be replaced.
  18. RD is right about the junction box. Where is the light? Sorry but I could not see from your pic's. If it is at the deep end, you could look around as far back as behind that retaining wall. But in reality, It could have been placed anywhere. The retaining wall could have even been an afterthought and the j-box was buried. As for the skimmer(s), you say that they both have the equalizer lines? Then you may have either a main drain line that runs back to the equipment, or has been abandoned with the skimmer due to leaking. Those skimmers use a diverter insert when a main drain line is integrated or "teed" into them that appears to be missing Tell tale plug in the skimmer (photo) may suggest the afore mentioned abandoned or leaking line. Looks like you are in the middle of a re-plumb. Two lines going into the pump could be the two skimmers, Deep end skimmer having the main drain integrated into it, or the two skimmers tied together and the main drain on the other line. the plug in the one skimmer may be for vacuuming and forgot to remove, or you plugged while you are doing the replumb to keep from taking a bath if the system is lower than the pool. As you can see, even though you supplied pics and gave a good description, there are still a lot of questions about the plumbing that may only be answered by being on site. ... Or I am totally off in which case ignore all the above.
  19. Ask the tile guy how he intends to prep the surface. You MUST get all the loose (de-lamed) plaster off. It may mean chipping the entire pool. Tiling is expensive because its so labor intensive, so this is going to be a major investment. Unless you have some experience in tiling POOLS, not just your kitchen back splash, have it done by a tile guy with references, or better yet, some pools that he has done, and not necessarily recently. You are looking to see how well his work is holding up.
  20. Marty, is that your board in the pic? or a pic you got off the internet? I would check the large resistors (purple) for burned. If you are getting a new board, checking would just be for piece of mind
  21. Did you have someone come in to do the tile cleaning? Did they have to lower the level of the pool? Like spa guy suggested, maybe they had not put them back to the correct orientation.
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